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Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by 3/4Flap, Feb 19, 2012.
right, sounds the same to me, just let me /us know, when you tried it out and what happened
Thanks to all who have shared info in this thread. I have a new Gen3 G17 with a whole lotta erratic ejections so I'll be doing some extractor polishing this weekend to start. If that doesn't help I'll be calling Glock to see if I can get the newer ejector to replace the 336 that's in mine.
when i had the problems with my gen.3 G17 years ago, there was no 4th gen. and so no new ejector available, the 336 was the newest one, so there was no help from another different 9mm ejector.
i fixed the prob by using the ejector of the .40S&W that was current at that point of time and also by using the older non-LCI extractor.
the use of the .40S&W ejector was a great improvement, it hits the brass more to the right and gives it a different twist/angle while extracted/ejected, but this alone didn't solve the prob 100%, but in combination with the older non-LCI extractor, my brass-to-the-head-problem was solved 100%.
i also own a gen.3 G19 with the LCI extractor and the 336 ejector and with that G19 i never had any brass-to-head-issues. weird and funny.
does anyone know if i'd use a gen.4 "." dot connector in a gen. 3 G19 with gen. 3 trigger bar (like it is supposed to be), will it have a lighter or a heavier trigger pull, compared to a "-" minus connector in a gen. 3 G19 with gen. 3 trigger bar?
Man, just reading what you have..nice arsenal
waiting on the Apex extractors...
I went home last night and detail stripped my slide. My extractor is tight in the slide (I had to pry it out), and has wear marks at certain contact points. The last time I shot, a few cases smacked me in the face, so I'm going to do some stoning/polishing and see if it helps.
Just curious, but was the extractor and cut also loaded with crud when you got it out?
I noticed on mine that Ive removed, there was a lot of junk in the cut and around the extractor, even though I try to blast it out now and then while cleaning with air and/or Gun Scrubber.
I wonder if that doenst also contribute to the problem, especially if the fit is tight to start with.
No, I detail strip my slide quite often, cleaning that area thoroughly. But I would think you are on the right track.....an already tight fit, coupled with debris getting into that area over time, relates to extraction/ejection issues that seem to develop over time, which is what most people report.
Me, too! From what I've been reading about 3rd gen. pistols there is a slight reduction in trigger pull weight with the, '.' connector over the factory standard, '-' connector.
(Don't own one; so I can't say from personal experience. The, '-' connectors I'm using, now, are certainly good enough that I feel no need to run right out and try something different, though.)
okay, so it is possible to use a gen. 4 "." dot connector in a gen.3 G17 or gen.3 G19 and it should assumingly reduce the weight of pull even a little bit more than the "-" minus gen.3 connector, right?
Well, I see we're both on the internet at the same time!
This is what I've been reading; but, like I said, I have no personal experience with it. I'll tell you a little secret, though: Whenever I'm really stuck on a question like this I'll call one of the large aftermarket Glock parts suppliers, and speak to their tech support people.
Why? Because, too often, you can't trust the internet to give you the right answer; and, when dealing with Smyrna, you just never really know.
yes, seems we have to much spare time, hah
what you said about the aftermarket part retailers and glock itself is absolutely correct, i often encountered the fact, that the people in the factory (no matter where or what) have much less clue and idea of their product, than the real "freaks" (in a very positive sense) in the aftermarket zone or the user zone
Take this for what it's worth:
As stated earlier, my Gen 3 G19 has never malfunctioned, but does spit brass to the face on occasion. The extractor that came with the gun is the LCI with the dip, with a "2" on the post. I ordered a new extractor, still an LCI with the dip, but this one has a "3" printed on the post. I tried the new extractor with 100 rounds of WWB, and while there were still no malfunctions, the brass to the face continued. The old extractor would drop free when doing a detail strip, while the new one had to be shaken out.
I took an Arkansas stone and some oil and rubbed the flat sides of the new extractor lightly in circular motions on both sides. This took some of the black off of the part but not much. After finishing, the sides of the extractor were very smooth, and it would drop freely from the silde with no effort.
After 100 more rounds of WWB today, every round ejected to the right and slightly back (3:30 - 4:00) in, dare I say it, a neat little pile.
I'm not sure what the difference between the "2" and "3" on the extractors mean, or if that has anything to do with it, but I'm happy.
My Gen3 G-19 came with a molded #2 extractor, as well. Serendipitously (That's actually a word!) I polished my #2 extractor before I fired the pistol. It was sticking; but, after polishing, it began to fall free.
I've already got an investment cast LWD extractor for a backup; but, at the same time, I've decided to continue using the original #2 extractor. So far I've been through, about, 3,000 rounds with absolutely no complaints.
In a Gen3, the - connector gives about a 4.5lbs pull, the dot connector gives about a 5lbs pull, and the standard connector gives about 5.5lbs. In a Gen4, the - connector is just under 5lbs, the dot connector is about 5.5lbs, the regular connector is nearly 6lbs.
The dot connector is "in between" the minus and standard connectors.
okay, so no need to change the "-" minus connector to a "." dot connector on a 3rd gen. glock, cause you'll only increase trigger weight
I really could not figure what all the fuss was about... my Glocks (over 30 during the past 20 years) have always worked fine - even the Gen4 G19 I had for a while. I could not find any spare parts for the Gen4 at the time I got it, so I got rid of it (I want my spare parts!). I traded the Gen4 19 for a like-new recent-production G26. I loved the little gun, but had shot it less than 100 rounds as of today. I had chronoed some Win 127 gr +p+ rounds & the gun functioned OK with them.
I am one of the shooters here on GT that had some chipping of my barrel lug - on the 26. After removing the MGSL (whether at fault or not), I polished out the chips. Today, I went to my backyard range to fire off some more of the +p+ rounds with the OEM slide lock in place to see if any chipping happened. No chipping; good!
But.........every other round left its case stuck half in the chamber with the slide almost all the way back... a jam! What the heck? The extractor was slipping off the rim again & again. I began blaming the 18# Wolff recoil spring assembly (stock is 16#). But, just in case, I ground down the extractor a little on both sides with fine sand paper (on a flat surface) & then polished both sides with a Dremel tool buffing wheel.
I went to the range again with several combinations of ammo, spring weights, etc. to do some testing to find the problem. I started with the same ammo (127 +p+) & shot 2 mags full (24 rounds) I got not one failure-to-extract! I did not have try any of the other ammo or springs; the problem seems to be solved.... thanks to this thread. -
Dang MIM extractors! -
But, to clarify, you didn't take anything off the shoulder that limits the inward movement of the extractor . . . right?
Right. I did not take any off that shoulder.
I don't see how that would hold the cartridge tighter as mention somewhere above. That shoulder does not touch the slide when a cartridge is in place. The extractor is held out by the cartridge.
....just as you said in post #11.
I did this to my 34 extractor (with the dip in it) and it fixed the issue...nothing off the shoulder just smoothed and polished sides and the post that sits around the firing pin safety.