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Discussion in 'GSSF' started by jwitagauge, Feb 19, 2010.
I have a buddy of mine who wants to sell me his for $250 is this a good deal?
If it is a real GERMAN Walther... Buy it. If it's an old, EARLY Interarms Walther... Buy it. Later Interarms or S&W Walther.. PASS
The price is very low which sounds suspicious. Even if it's a S&W I would give a very close look at that price, but you just want to make sure you are not getting someone else's problematic gun.
Didn't the PPK get recalled recently? I suggest that you take it to the range and run 25 rounds through it before buying it.
buy it now
I have a PPK/s from Smith, shoots great. At $250 it's a steal, it would be a good idea to put a few rounds through it just in case.
I have a Smith model as well and its been great.
this guy is a really good friend of mine but i am gonna shoot it first i like to do that whenever possible
I would get it for that price. I like my 1962 32 PPK.
For $250, buy it!
I have a S&W PPK/s, aint nothing wrong with them.
Interesting. Please school me on the early v. newer Interarms. And how do you tell what year an Interarms was made? I have a stainless PPK serial number A0066xx.
Stainless Interarms would be later U.S. manufactured.
Early Interarms are blued and Manurhin or German made after 1987.
None of the American made Walthers have a stellar reputation for quality control or reliability.
I see the guns come in from time to time since there is no warranty on them any longer.
Most of the issues are related to rough internal finish and bad extractors.
Slide extractor cut out is too narrow on some guns and the extractors poorly fitted, too thick, too shallow and extractor claw and not properly annealed at the claw area.
Slightly enlarging the extractor slot and replacing the extractor with a German/French made version tends to fix this issue.
Many pistols have very rough internal areas and I think this is mainly due to early use of stainless steel and an unfamiliarity on how to properly machine the stuff coupled with a company unwillingness to devote any major time to final fitting and polish.
Once this is accomplished, the American guns tend to run fairly well.
That one should be a first year (1986?) stainless production gun. No records are available as far as I know. The earlier ones had serial number on both the slide and frame. They are finished better with less sharp edges, safeties worked more smoothly, etc. I spoke with a former Interarms employee a few years ago who told me my serial number was a very early production gun. He had some information he had taken with him after the company went out of business. I have owned the gun since the late 80s. It is a higher number than yours, but close. How is the fit/finish/function of yours?
In my experience, my gun and the others of the same vintage I have examined were produced with more attention to detail than the later ones (of which I also have owned). It seems with every passing year they got rougher until production ceased. Most importantly, in my experience, the earlier guns are much more likely to function properly.
Moving on to the S&W produced guns - they are even rougher looking and have more trouble functioning correctly than any other "Walther" produced (except maybe the late Interarms). And the added area to the "beavertail" is just ugly as sin in my opinion. Like my earlier post says: Real Walther, early Interarms, then be very careful. Maybe buy by specific individual after that if it funtions properly. Don't buy sight unseen!
If it's an old German Walther, I guess you could buy it for that price and sell it for profit. I would not keep it.
I have two Walthers, both old German, both are nice quality with very nice fit and finish, very attractive overall. It's too bad neither are reliable... even with ball ammo (pretty much all I shoot in them now). I don't know what the deal is. It's one of those pistols that you really want to perform well. Wish it did.
Winchester62. Thanks for the excellent info. Mine is the only one I've ever inspected closely. Looking at it, I was surprised people said PPKs are not well finished, but I guess you explained that. Mine is very nicely done, even inside the slide. The slide has no slop and everything fits very clean and true. It really is a beautiful piece. The trigger is very heavy DA, but very smooth. Single action pull is light and crisp...just how you want it. I have not yet fired it.
As for sharp edges, well mine has them. The rear left bottom of the slide and the slide serrations were very sharp and it is clear I would have earned some bloody "railroad tracks" on my hand from the slide had I shot it. I've probably committed a mortal sin, but I took some 600 grit sandpaper to that area and carefully smoothed out the sharp edges. I might do it a bit more, but I'm going to shoot it first to see if it's a problem. I might have taken a few bucks out of resale value, but I don't care much about that. It looks great.
Also, the left side of the tang uncomfortably digs into the web of my hand. I'm weighing out sanding that a bit.
Mine does have the matching serial number on the slide, under the ejection port, and on the left side of the frame, behind the trigger.
On the issue of Interarms records, are firearms mfg required to submit productions numbers and serial numbers to A*T*F? If they are, it seems a Public Records Request or Freedom Of Information Act would reveal a lot of the info we're looking for.
Thanks again for the info. I'm kinda excited about this piece.
If the seller is a good friend, and he says it's a reliable pistol, I'd probably just buy it for $250 after a visual inspection. Friendship means a lot to me and $250 isn't much of a risk.
Glockenglock, I probably have less meaty hands than you so I don't have the
problem of getting cut by the slide. That is of course why the S&W design added the long beaver tail. Since I don't need that feature to shoot the gun safely it just looks ugly to me. I don't blame you for taking the sandpaper to your Interarms and if you do it very carefully no one would probably know it anyway.
As for the records, I know an FFL has to turn theirs in after they close up shop. It is probably similar for a manufacturer but I doubt they were required to keep track of what number was made when. Even if they did, it would probably not be easy getting what you need for one reason or another but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try. I've done a few FOIA requests on other things and got jack both times. YMMV!
If he's a buddy, look a the gun first. Test fire it. If it cycles reliably, then I'd say it is a great deal. It's probably worth $400.
I have an Interarms Walther PPK, stainless. Everything about it seems fine to me. Shoots accurate, cycles reliably.
People who say only buy if it is German, seem silly to me. Like the people who say only buy a Beretta if it is Itailian.
If you like the fit and finish, and the way it shoots, and it doesn't jam, then what more do you want?
For a micro carry gun, the Walther is heavy. It is old school, in that way. The size is small. But it weighs more than something like a Ruger LCP.
I say pass...... 380 ammo is too high............. what's the guys name who has it since your taking my advise right..................right??? LOL
thats an awesome price!