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Video How To: Eliminate trigger pre-travel

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by chadillac, Dec 28, 2011.

  1. chadillac

    chadillac

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWlp...xt=C3a06bbbUDOEgsToPDskIdLAVSuqM13jLsiJeuRedq

    This is sort of a video how to on eliminating pre-travel on the Glock platform. It takes some gunsmithing so if you are not competent or have never even taken your Glock all the way apart, you may want to hold off on this for a while. I don't claim to be an expert but I know the risk at hand and I have done a lot of gunsmithing of my own. AR15's, Glocks, XD's and I am sure I am missing some. It requires removing material from the frame.

    I know some people will hate me for doing this and claim that the trigger is perfect the way it it. Well, I just hate leaving stuff alone and since it is my back up/extra gun, I figured I would try something I haven't really seen a lot. I tried looking it up on the internet but didn't come up with much other than the big names that do it themselves and don't have any how to's. It really did work out great and the only modification that you are doing to the gun that can't be reversed is a small 3/32 sized hole in a part of the frame that doesn't really make a difference.

    The trigger bar will be messed up as well if you want to put it into another Glock so you need to get another one for a back up if you wish to put it back to stock at anytime.

    If done right, all safeties will work. If you have any questions, just ask. I know it doesn't look pretty where the pin is, but the super glue kind of makes it look all crappy. It is nice and solid because the pin isn't long and doesn't move if I put any pressure on either side.

    It's getting late, pictures tomorrow.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  2. bowerman

    bowerman

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    Did you film that with a DSLR?
     

  3. chadillac

    chadillac

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    Yes, Nikon D3100. I leave it on manual focus otherwise you hear a whine during the whole movie of the camera gaining focus.

    Why do you ask?
     
  4. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    I don't hate you for doing it, I've done OVER-travel mods and other mods to my Glock triggers. That being said, are you SURE that all the safeties still work? Eliminating pre-travel can get dicey, because pre-travel is necessary for the other two Glock safeties. The Glock design relies on that pre-travel for the two most critical safeties (in my opinion). That's the striker block safety, and the drop safety. If you eliminate all of the pre-travel, the left wing of the trigger bar cruciform is no longer in the forward slot, and it could drop downward (releasing the striker) if the gun is dropped. That means the drop safety is no longer active. Second, if the trigger is too far rearward at rest, it will be depressing the striker safety plunger, and could allow the striker to be unblocked. That's bad news. Just make damn sure those two safeties are still active.

    No pre-travel would be nice, but drop safeties are nicer.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  5. chadillac

    chadillac

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    Thanks for the comment. Both safeties are functioning properly (just double checked) because the trigger still has to move rearward to drop out of the slot. It is far enough forward at the end of the reset to stay in the forward slot. Also, I think I mentioned in the video that the plunger safety still works after looking at it through the empty magwell. You can see the it is down before starting to pull the trigger then the trigger bar tab pushes it up once engaged. I think the key to making sure both of those safeties work properly are allowing the trigger to go far enough forward after the reset. It just depends on your gun how far that is.

    Again, thanks for the comments. Safety is always first when doing miss like these.
     
  6. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    That's good that your safeties are still working. It would be easy to overdo it and deactivate them. If you get it just right, they should still be fine. I bet it feels great with that Tactical 5.0 connector. Next time you feel like modifying a trigger, try this (video I made of procedure):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xve2t8cKgHo

    Here's my thread with instructions. It's fun, and I'm like you, if I'm not shooting, I'm messing with my guns:

    http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1369375

    This is a method that another GT member saw on Brian Enos's forums. I did it on my G20LS, and then have made about 20 bars for other people. It lightens the trigger pull to about 2.5lbs (depending on placement of trigger pad pin) with all stock parts. If you do it right, it's amazing! If you plan on trying it, get at least 5 trigger bars. You will mess up a few before you get it right. Even if your first is good, if you make a few, you will likely get one that's perfect. You can then combine it with other mods like springs to make it even lighter. Depending on your hole placement, you can even reduce or eliminate pre- and over-travel. Best of all, the lightening comes without the usual mushiness or long reset that connectors/springs yield. If you try it, read the whole thread first, especially the later pages, because they have better instructions and pics.

    By the way, the modifications shown above in my video and thread are ONLY for target/range guns. The modification can result in a SERIOUSLY light trigger, and could be dangerous without proper safety.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  7. chadillac

    chadillac

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    Awesome! I will have to try it out. Yes, the Ghost tactical is a great feel. I love it and it is in my carry gun, the gen 3. The gen 4 has the ghost rocket 3.5 connector.The funny thing is, it seems like I read your thread when I first got a glock (only had Glocks since September 2011) and thought that was too complex for me, especially since I didn't know what a trigger bar was. Maybe I will give it a shot. All I can ruin is a trigger bar, right? :)

    I just spent the last 15 minutes making completely sure all safeties are working good still. What is the best way to tell if your plunger is not engaged before you start pulling the trigger? It looks good but that isn't 100%. I shook the thing forward and backward as hard as I could and the firing pin is not free. Once I pull the trigger, you can hear it clunking back and forth when I shane it. So it seems to me it is working correctly. You got me a little paranoid! Haha. Well, thanks for the posts. I will update the thread when u get out and shoot it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  8. bowerman

    bowerman

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    No reason really. Just thought it was by watching it. Thanks for the video btw.
     
  9. TexasPOff

    TexasPOff "Dump The Hump"

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    Guys were doing this same type mod to XD's some years ago. Same principal in using a small piece of all thread or something, installing it in the frame so as to limit the trigger bars movement forward. I would have never thought to try this on a Glock though, good job. Another way to get this result is to modify the connector housing.

    Look at the connector housing from the top. The trigger bar has a tab on it's left that rides inside the housing. Measure how far you want to restrict the trigger bars movement forward. Drill a small hole in the top of the connector housing at this point. Insert a small metal pin in this drilled hole. The pin prevents the trigger bar from moving forward, thus eliminating pre travel or take up. I did this mod to a few connector housing in the past and it works very well. Should you ever want to return your pistol to stock, simply swap the connector housing with a new one.

    I even did this mod to a Lone Wolf ultimate trigger stop connector housing. The trigger in that glock had about 16th of an inch trigger travel back and forth and did the exact same thing as the Travis Haley "skimmer" trigger mentioned in another thread. For $20 in parts and about 15 minutes worth of time. I wouldn't run this in a duty or defense pistol, but for a range or race gun it was quite impressive. There is one downside to this mod though. If you limit the trigger bars return too much, you over ride the trigger bars drop safety. The ledge that prevents the trigger from moving downward releasing the striker. The trigger bar will actually sit far enough back that the ledge is not under the trigger bar. This could result in the striker being released if the pistol is dropped. Now the firing pin safety should prevent the striker firing pin from hitting the primer, but it does render one of the drop safeties inoperative. TXPO
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  10. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    The lack of "clunking" when cocked does not mean your safety is still functional. I agree that it is difficult to see via the mag well whether the tab on the trigger bar is partially depressing the FP safety plunger, but I will bet you that yours is partially depressed. The reason your shaking of the gun when cocked results in no sound, is that the sear on the cruciform is pushing it rearward against the pressure of the FP spring. It is not the safety plunger that prevents the movement. What you can do is remove the extractor and view the position of the plunger with your extra screw in place and with it removed; I'm confident you'll see it being depressed. Whether that amount of depressing is sufficient to compromise the safety is your decision.

    Note that removal of the extractor releases the plunger, so you may have to hold the gun upside down to keep it in place until the trigger bar contacts it. I can't remember the exact tricks I used, but I was disappointed that anything close to full elimination of pre-travel also caused a significant depression of the plunger. Is there still enough FP channel blockage for it to function safely? That was the subject of another recent thread, and, up 'til now, I have chosen not to allow any depression of the safety plunger when the trigger is fully forward. There is only 1mm of plunger movement from full extension to the point where the FP is free to move. So, you are playing with some pretty small numbers when you choose to forfeit any portion of that margin.

    As TPO pointed out, there are lots of ways to block the forward movement of the trigger bar in the trigger housing rather than drill a hole in your frame -- for next time. There is a great thread by MarkCo (one of the mods here) explaining his technique.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  11. chadillac

    chadillac

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    Ok, I just tried what you said and it for sure now, they are all working. I took the extractor out. Then assembled the gun (you have to lift up the plunger manually or the slide won't go on). Then marked the plunged with a sharpie where the plunged is when at reset. Then I disassembled again. Then I held the plunger where the mark was and the firing pin would not move. In fact, as I moved the plunger upwards it upon a great deal of movement more for the FP to move forward so I feel really good about it now.

    Thanks for the help. I don't claim to be an expert and I am still learning.
     
  12. pistoleer

    pistoleer

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    The video no longer exists. I would love to try this mod. Is there anywhere I can find the instructions?
     
  13. arushus

    arushus Biggest Member

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    Another way to make sure the striker safety is still working properly would be to field strio and reassemble without the barrel. You will have to hold the slide where it usually sits by hand, but all you would have to do to test it is hold the gun pointing downwards and see if the striker pokes through the breechface.
     
  14. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    Set up as you describe, the cruciform is still holding the FP/striker to the rear until the trigger is pulled.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2012