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Many here use the Vedder LightTuck IWB holster as do I.

Many such holsters offer a "claw" option that pushes against your belt to keep the grip in closer to your body.

Unfortunately, whenever I would grip my P365 to draw, the knuckle of my middle finger would hit the top of the claw because of the small size of such Micro 9s. There wasn't enough space between the grip and the claw for my hand.

The point: the height of the claw can be easily trimmed to allow clearance for your hand.

I used a bandsaw to take off the top ~25% of the claw following the original curve of the claw and then sanded it smooth with some fine sandpaper. The claw still functions fine and my knuckle has the clearance it needs.

Maybe this will be useful for others who have experienced this problem with an otherwise great holster.

A pre-hack Vedder claw. Probably not a problem on larger framed guns:

952009



The Vedder claw after trimming on my P365 holster:

952012


952013


952014


952015




Now that I just went to the trouble of typing this all up, I went back to the Vedder site and I see that the claw they currently show on their website appears to be smaller than the one I received from them. It only has 8 ridges on the claw, like my modified claw now does, not 11 ridges like the one shown in the LightTuck picture above and that came with my holster:

952038



Hopefully, they've solved this for any new buyers already. But, for those with the old model claw, don't be afraid to hack it down to a better fitting size if needed.
 

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Did the same for the claw on my PJHolster.

Another hack I found, since Vedder doesn't offer a holster for my EDC X9 W/rail was that it fits just fine in a Glock 19 holster with Light Valkyrie Mini 2. So that was an acceptable workaround.
 
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Many here use the Vedder LightTuck IWB holster as do I.

Many such holsters offer a "claw" option that pushes against your belt to keep the grip in closer to your body.

Unfortunately, whenever I would grip my P365 to draw, the knuckle of my middle finger would hit the top of the claw because of the small size of such Micro 9s. There wasn't enough space between the grip and the claw for my hand.

The point: the height of the claw can be easily trimmed to allow clearance for your hand.

I used a bandsaw to take off the top ~25% of the claw following the original curve of the claw and then sanded it smooth with some fine sandpaper. The claw still functions fine and my knuckle has the clearance it needs.

Maybe this will be useful for others who have experienced this problem with an otherwise great holster.

A pre-hack Vedder claw. Probably not a problem on larger framed guns:

View attachment 952009


The Vedder claw after trimming on my P365 holster:

View attachment 952012

View attachment 952013

View attachment 952014

View attachment 952015



Now that I just went to the trouble of typing this all up, I went back to the Vedder site and I see that the claw they currently show on their website appears to be smaller than the one I received from them. It only has 8 ridges on the claw, like my modified claw now does, not 11 ridges like the one shown in the LightTuck picture above and that came with my holster:

View attachment 952038


Hopefully, they've solved this for any new buyers already. But, for those with the old model claw, don't be afraid to hack it down to a better fitting size if needed.

Just got off the phone and they actually have two. Issue was the same but finding this post I decided to call (Nicole) at Vedder and they are shipping the smaller claw at no cost to me. Thanks for this post!
 
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