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Your Google is broken too?
UPDATE PAGE 6. Broke a trigger spring this morning so thinking about this...
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I always enjoy your posts. The voice of reason.FWIW, the Trigger Spring isn't the Trigger Reset Spring. It actually works against the reset process. The firing pin spring is what resets the trigger.
The Trigger Spring is the most frequent part on the Glock to break. Keep one and a punch in your range bag and you are covered for six sigma events when it comes to Glock failures. Or just change all your springs at say 20K round intervals.
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Pretty sure you are in the minority.
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It's not a trigger, it's a spring...a New York 1 trigger spring. Installed, it makes the whole Glock trigger pull much heavier and harder to use well.
Friends don't let friends use NY springs!
As others here have stated, and no one seems to paying any attention to, THE GLOCK WILL STILL WORK AFTER THE COIL TRIGGER SPRING BREAKS! Ya only have to know how to use it.
It's been my experience that they don't break often. I've been A Glock owner since May of 1986. I'm also a competitive shooter...just about anything...GSSF from it inception, IPSC, steal matches, pin matches, whatever comes along. I've personally had a grand total of ONE trigger spring break.
The spring will break when the gun is being fired, and the shooter doesn't even know it until the gun is empty, the slide is locked back, and they reload it. When they close the slide, the trigger fails to move forward. At that point, if you really want to fire the gun (like if yer in a gun fight), you need only to pull and hold the trigger back, rack the slide (yes you'll loose the chambered round), and then shoot as normal till the mag is empty again.
Try it! Remove your trigger spring, and reassemble without the spring. Dry fire as described above. Then go to the range and try it for real....just be sure to keep the muzzle pointed downrange when you rack the slide while holding the trigger back. No, the gun won't fire because yer holding trigger back, but it will if you release the trigger and pull it again, so keep it pointed the right way.
I've shown this to a lot of people and it has never failed to work.
Replacing the coil spring with a NY spring out of fear that the coil spring will break just doesn't make any sense. As stated in other posts, the NY spring sucks.
Ok so all you NY1 haters can tell me you told me so...
Headed to the range after work to do some “ from concealment” practice. This “-“ connector NY1 spring combo is just not for me. Turns out it helped me remember why I absolutely hate DA/SA autos and why I left HK and Sig and went to GLOCK all those years ago!
Took my carry gun and my old stock Gen3 to compare and there is just no comparison. Out of a holster that smooth “ single stage” pull felt a mile long and just destroyed my first shot times if I wanted any kind of accuracy.
I give up. To those that like it good on you. Maybe I need lots more time to adapt but I’m just not interested in finding out.
If anyone wants to try this out for themselves pm me and I’ll send you a “-“ connector and NY1 spring free of charge but if you don’t like it you have to pass it on to another.
Thanks to all that responded here and followed along.
Edit: I’ve had a taker for the connector and trigger spring. Perhaps he will share his thoughts with us when he’s had a chance to run them a bit.
Headed to the range after work to do some “ from concealment” practice. This “-“ connector NY1 spring combo is just not for me. Turns out it helped me remember why I absolutely hate DA/SA autos and why I left HK and Sig and went to GLOCK all those years ago!
Took my carry gun and my old stock Gen3 to compare and there is just no comparison. Out of a holster that smooth “ single stage” pull felt a mile long and just destroyed my first shot times if I wanted any kind of accuracy.
I give up. To those that like it good on you. Maybe I need lots more time to adapt but I’m just not interested in finding out.
If anyone wants to try this out for themselves pm me and I’ll send you a “-“ connector and NY1 spring free of charge but if you don’t like it you have to pass it on to another.
Thanks to all that responded here and followed along.
Edit: I’ve had a taker for the connector and trigger spring. Perhaps he will share his thoughts with us when he’s had a chance to run them a bit.
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Agreed, try the minus connector and the stock spring
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If I remember right I tried the minus connector by itself combined with a .25 trigger job when I bought this gun and again if I remember right I thought it was a tad to light for me.
Just a bit ago I found that I have a complete trigger group that I polished up nice a few years ago including a minus connector. I think I remember thinking it was too light but perhaps I shall give it another go this weekend as long as I seem to be in a experimental mood.
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236 Posts
If it's too light, get the 6 pound striker spring from Ghost. I have a 3.5 pound connector with a 6 ;b trigger spring and a 6 lb striker spring in a G21 and a G19. If you polish everything...trigger bar, connector, striker hook, and safety plunger (the whole thing, not just the head) you will get about a 5 pound trigger that is smooooth! If you order the 6 lb striker spring, get the reduced power safety plunger spring....makes everything work nice!
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93 Posts
Is that an aftermarket trigger? I don’t remember the parts being golden colored
No they are OEM parts just morning sunlight and a poor job by me of taking a photo.
The 6# FPS and the 6# TS should offset one another and give basically the same trigger pull weight as the two OEM 5.5# parts.
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20 Posts
W0W! So sorry to have bothered you!
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Thank you Butch!It's not a trigger, it's a spring...a New York 1 trigger spring. Installed, it makes the whole Glock trigger pull much heavier and harder to use well.
Friends don't let friends use NY springs!
As others here have stated, and no one seems to paying any attention to, THE GLOCK WILL STILL WORK AFTER THE COIL TRIGGER SPRING BREAKS! Ya only have to know how to use it.
It's been my experience that they don't break often. I've been A Glock owner since May of 1986. I'm also a competitive shooter...just about anything...GSSF from it inception, IPSC, steal matches, pin matches, whatever comes along. I've personally had a grand total of ONE trigger spring break.
The spring will break when the gun is being fired, and the shooter doesn't even know it until the gun is empty, the slide is locked back, and they reload it. When they close the slide, the trigger fails to move forward. At that point, if you really want to fire the gun (like if yer in a gun fight), you need only to pull and hold the trigger back, rack the slide (yes you'll loose the chambered round), and then shoot as normal till the mag is empty again.
Try it! Remove your trigger spring, and reassemble without the spring. Dry fire as described above. Then go to the range and try it for real....just be sure to keep the muzzle pointed downrange when you rack the slide while holding the trigger back. No, the gun won't fire because yer holding trigger back, but it will if you release the trigger and pull it again, so keep it pointed the right way.
I've shown this to a lot of people and it has never failed to work.
Replacing the coil spring with a NY spring out of fear that the coil spring will break just doesn't make any sense. As stated in other posts, the NY spring sucks.
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Not a problem, it won't happen again.
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236 Posts
It SHOULD...but no 2 Glocks are the same. Unless you are magic like Johnny Glock, you might get close if you installed the same set up in 2 different guns. The set up in my G21 is 5lbs...but feels less with hardly any wall. In my G19 it's 4.5 lbs, but has more of a wall.
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8,024 Posts
I went to the NY1 WITHOUT the spring in it and a 3.5 for a few years because I broke too many trigger springs for my liking. It was ok, never broke a trigger spring, always went bang. The new trigger bars are improved and I am back to stock trigger spring, new G3 bars and dot connectors. It's been many years now (since the new trigger bars came out) and have not had an issue.
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