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Ultimate HP - How to customize?

Discussion in 'The Browning Hi Power Club' started by Aceman, May 16, 2009.

  1. MatGlock

    MatGlock

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    Not to hi-jack, but where is the best place to get a no bite hammer. I bought my second hi power the other month and am having some problems with hammer bite that I don't have with my other one.
     
  2. vmr357

    vmr357

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    MatGlock, I think the standard source for HP hammers is Cylinder & Slide. They have several to choose from. http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=BHPDI You can order direct or from Midway or Brownell's. It's best to swap both the hammer and sear together.

    As for customizing a Hi Power, I guess I'm a minimalist. I found one that had all I needed done to it and grabbed it. It was worked over by Don Williams at The Action Works. He did a reliability package, pulled the magazine disconnect, mounted Novak sights, and refinished the slide. I've got Navidrex grips and that does it.

    [​IMG]

    This is a shooter.

    Vern
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2010

  3. silversport

    silversport

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    ...and it is beautiful...
    Bill
     
  4. DaBigBR

    DaBigBR No Infidels!

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    When I sent my Practical off to Heirloom for the SRT package, they said that there was no "need" on most Mark III BHPs to re-barrel. My BHP after getting Yost-ed shot 2" at 25yd off-hand, standing, completely unsupported.
     
  5. KevlarSix

    KevlarSix Senior Member

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    Before my dad passed away, he gave me his Browning Hi Power

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    Bought a EFK Firedragon Recoil Reduction Kit

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    Got a couple of Hex screws for the pistol

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  6. KevlarSix

    KevlarSix Senior Member

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    Novak Night Sights

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    Hard Chrome and installation of sights

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    Cocobolo Grips Rich Dark Wood

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    Last edited: Nov 6, 2012
  7. KevlarSix

    KevlarSix Senior Member

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    Excalibur Ultima Rosewood Grips

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    Decided to go with LG-309 Crimson Trace Lasergrips.

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    Browning Safety Fast Shooting System (With no bite hammer)

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  8. KevlarSix

    KevlarSix Senior Member

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    I found the EFK Firedragon Frame Saver Recoil Assembly to be defective.

    EFK sent me a new one and I also bought a Garthwaite Competition Trigger as well

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    Installed the parts to the Browning Pistol. Trigger pull is now much better

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  9. KevlarSix

    KevlarSix Senior Member

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    Finally I get to replace my front sight with a much lower front sight and a Cylinder and Slide Browning Hi Power Trigger Pull Reduction System.

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    My trigger pull is now at 2.5 pounds.

    3074v
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2012
  10. Veedubklown

    Veedubklown

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    I have an FM Hi-Power (from Argentina), mine came with the magazine disconnect already removed. I installed a set of hogue wrap-around grips, to replace the stock ones. They felt like you were holding a beer can, and beat to hell.

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    After building my 1911, I was fairly confident I could stone a BHP hammer/sear, and I was pretty successful. My trigger is at about 4lbs, which is perfect for this gun. I carry it in the winter, and shoot IDPA with it. I then put a small weld bead on the front of the trigger, where it contacts the inside of the frame. Then, filed and fitted it, to act as an over-travel stop.

    [​IMG]

    Bought new trigger bar from browning, because it would be slightly longer than the one already in it. I fit it, to reduce the reset. Now, this trigger is about as close as you can get to a 1911. This FM already came with night sights, so until I decide when/how I want to refinish it, this is how it is.

    It also already came with a pachmayr extended slide lock, and ambidextrous safety.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012
  11. Speedrock

    Speedrock "To The Point"

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    "...new trigger bar from browning, because it would be slightly longer than the one already in it." :cool:

    Why would a new Browning item be longer than your existing one ?
     
  12. Veedubklown

    Veedubklown

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    What I meant to say, was trigger lever, first of all, as it's called by browning's parts catalog. That was the hope, that my Argentinian part may be worn, fitted, or otherwise slightly shorter. For like a $5 part, it was worth the gamble. It actually was, very slightly. I then ramped the trigger bar, and polished where it interfaces with the sear lever. All of this, was to get the trigger reset as short as possible, for that crisp 1911-like trigger. I got it about as short as the trigger lever travels to move the sear. Very little take-up, very little travel, as it should be :supergrin:
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2012