Have you done anything to the pistol such as change the connector, trigger spring or firing pin spring? If it is totally stock try another connector.

 

I bought the gun used, but practically new (Gen 4 19) he had put a LW connector and Gen 3 trigger bar in the gun. He gave me the Gen 4 trigger bar and stock connector with the gun. He also said he put a 6 lb. Zev? Trigger spring in it. There is a trigger spring in the bag with the other parts. I put the Gen 4 trigger bar and stock connector back in but it still won't reset.

 

Put glock parts back in it and let us know what you find. Good luck.

 

Make sure the trigger spring & striker spring are stock, that could cause the issue. I would take it back stock and go from there.

 

I bet it will reset as soon as you install the original trigger spring. The 6# trigger springs have been known to cause reset problems in Gen 4 Glocks.

 

Yep, changed it all back to stock except the Gen 3 trigger bar. Works fine now!

 

hmmm.....wonder if the spring was not seated correctly. I run that exact same Zev 6lb trigger spring in my Gen 4 G26 and the reset is awesome

 

I doubled checked to make sure it was installed correctly. Will it not seat correctly some time?

 

Sometimes it slips off to the side when installed. The Gen4 has a notch to help keep it in place. It can also be installed backwards - it should form an S starting with the trigger bar.

A Glock trigger can reset with a broken spring if the trigger is held all the way to the rear when the slide is cycled. So your problem is intriguing. I think I'm in the camp of a problem with the installation of the trigger spring so that it was actually interfering. Either that or a problem with the Gen3 trigger bar.

Since you know it works with the original Glock parts, I would go with that. If you really want to get to the bottom of it, pick up the Glock Inspection Plate (about $3). It will allow you to observe the trigger bar lifting up and making contact with the firing pin lug.

 

Put glock parts back in it and let us know what you find. Good luck.

Yep, changed it all back to stock except the Gen 3 trigger bar. Works fine now!

Great advice. Something may work well in many guns nearly all the time but often there is something to be said for the reliablility from orginal Glock parts.

 

hmmm.....wonder if the spring was not seated correctly. I run that exact same Zev 6lb trigger spring in my Gen 4 G26 and the reset is awesome

The 6.0# springs cause reset problems in some Gen 4 Glocks so I advise the Gen 4 owners that I will not install them in their Gen 4 Glocks.
I have only seen this issue with Gen 4 Glocks.

 

The 6.0# springs cause reset problems in some Gen 4 Glocks so I advise the Gen 4 owners that I will not install them in their Gen 4 Glocks.
I have only seen this issue with Gen 4 Glocks.

You're dead on with the "some" part. I have 6# trigger springs in all my Glocks, including a Gen 4 G19. No issues.

Installed the same spring and setup in my new Glock 22 last week and the trigger would fail to reset. Stock spring, no issues.

 

Can the firing pin spring have anything to do with it. I'm thinking that Gen 3 trigger bar may have had an issue too.

 

Can the firing pin spring have anything to do with it. I'm thinking that Gen 3 trigger bar may have had an issue too.

Just like the ZEV 6lb spring i mentioned, I also have a gen 3 trigger bar in my gen 4 g26. Crazy how some parts work on one gun and not the other that are made the exact same

 

Can the firing pin spring have anything to do with it. I'm thinking that Gen 3 trigger bar may have had an issue too.

I would make sure you have the stock 5# striker spring installed. I have a 4# in one of my G19's, but it is strictly a range gun. You run the risk of light primer strikes with some ammo.

 

I would make sure you have the stock 5# striker spring installed. I have a 4# in one of my G19's, but it is strictly a range gun. You run the risk of light primer strikes with some ammo.

True about the possible light strikes with a 4.0# spring and OEM firing pin. The OEM spring is 5.5#.

 

OK, the culprit turned out to be the striker spring. I changed it back to stock, then put the Gen 3 trigger bar, LW connector, and 6lb. trigger spring back in, and she works perfectly. Thanks for all the help!

 

OK, the culprit turned out to be the striker spring. I changed it back to stock, then put the Gen 3 trigger bar, LW connector, and 6lb. trigger spring back in, and she works perfectly. Thanks for all the help!

good deal.....I left the striker spring stock on mine. Glad you figured it out

 

wrong thread, sorry . . .

 

I have a stock G19 Gen 4 - I purchased it new via GSSF. Yesterday at the range, I ran a few hundred rounds through it - the gun ran fine - absolutely no problems. Looking at the gun this morning, though, I'm wondering if I have a problem.

The gun is unloaded, no magazine inserted - if I slingshot the slide with my finger off the trigger, all is good - the slide goes all the way forward, the gun returns to battery, and the trigger moves forward as it resets.

If I slingshot the slide holding the trigger all the way to the rear and slowly ride the slide forward, the slide doesn't go completely forward - but when I let off the trigger a bit the slide goes forward and the trigger resets.

What's preventing the slide from going all the way forward when I'm holding the trigger back?

Typically this is a sign of a problem with the RSA. You said you purchased the gun new, does that mean it's a new purchase or have you had it awhile?

The return to battery test is basically what you are describing except that the gun should be held in a vertical position. Hold the trigger back the entire time and walk the slide closed slowly. Once the slide has been released it should return to full battery.

I have seen Glocks fail this test if there is a lot of gunk in the firing pin channel - if you have gotten oil or solvent into the firing pin channel intentionally or by accident it can gum things up enough. There is a plastic firing pin channel liner that normally doesn't come out so solvents should never be used on this part of the gun.

If you think you've gotten oil or solvent in the slide, I would do a detail strip and clean with dry qtips (6" wood cotton swabs). If you have more than 2k rounds through it, I would go ahead and replace the RSA just because it's cheap - about $12.

 

Thanks!

I purchased the gun new from Glock - I've had it for about a year less than 500 rounds fired through it.

The gun fails the test you describe.

I detail stripped the slide and the firing pin channel had a bit of soot in it but nowhere near anything that'd cause the firing pin to be restricted. Once I reassembled the slide, the gun now passes the test you described - I'll replace the RSA anyway, just in case.

I'm curious - given that the RSA is weak, exactly what component is it that's restricting the slide from going fully forward?

 

I'm curious - given that the RSA is weak, exactly what component is it that's restricting the slide from going fully forward?

The firing pin spring is the largest force. Obviously there's friction - gravity if you want to be really picky :supergrin:

Holding the trigger to the rear keeps the trigger bar from moving forward. When the force from the RSA is moving the slide forward, the firing pin lug makes contact with the rear of the trigger bar. Since the bar doesn't move the firing pin spring has to compress.

By walking the slide slowly we prevent momentum from affecting the test and the RSA is almost fully decompressed at this point so we're testing it's full ability.

It doesn't seem like oil in the firing pin channel would be enough to fail a good RSA (the RSA is 18lbs vs 6lbs firing pin spring). But I've fixed the problem on 3 or 4 relatively new guns by wiping down the spring and channel.

 

Thanks for the clearly described explanation - it makes sense - like I said, the gun now passes the test, but given that I had so few rounds through the gun compared to hearing about these Glocks that don't get cleaned for 5,000 or 10,000 rounds, I guess I just got a weak RSA out of the factory - I guess it happens.

Thanks again.

 

Sometimes you can go too light with trigger parts IMHO. My personal favorite Glock Trigger is a 3.5# connector, 8# NY1 trigger spring with a single coil of the inner spring cut off. That gives me a nice trigger that's around 6 lbs with a very firm reset, in fact it almost pushes your finger forward it's so firm but that's the combo that I've found that I really like in my Glocks. I don't change anything else, just connector and trigger spring.

 

Thanks for the clearly described explanation - it makes sense - like I said, the gun now passes the test, but given that I had so few rounds through the gun compared to hearing about these Glocks that don't get cleaned for 5,000 or 10,000 rounds, I guess I just got a weak RSA out of the factory - I guess it happens.

Thanks again.

If you're passing the test after cleaning the firing pin channel, even though there wasn't much there, I would put the new RSA aside until consistently failing the test or you get close to 5k rounds.

Glocks going 5-10k rounds between cleanings speaks to their ability to function under extreme conditions but is not what's best. Best is cleaning according to Glock's recommendations and doing the function tests to ensure the springs are good. http://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf

I saw a guy post a perfect 500/500 score at a GSSF indoor match. He mentioned recently breaking the locking block, I tested his RSA and it was so bad the chamber didn't even close completely. Obviously the gun could still function well enough to shoot perfect scores but would have continued to beat the crap out of the frame until it broke again. Shows the difference between what can be done to a Glock and what is best to do.