Trigger recommendations

Discussion in 'Gun-Parts & Access.' started by mikemyr, Aug 26, 2018.

  1. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    Took out the glock 23.3 this weekend to break her in, first experience with a glock compact. I love the gun, but the stock trigger face with the compact frame isn't a great combination for me. I found that my strong hand cants inward slightly (counter clock wise, right handed) and it angles my trigger finger downward. The rigidness of the trigger wasn't the most comfortable and my finger tended to adjust to its comfortable/natural position. This led to the side of my nail area rubbing raw against the trigger guard. I think a better face will help me and prevent my mind from sticking to the trigger face aspect while shooting... So, recommendations in trigger faces is what I am looking for, pros cons, goods bags, I'm open for all of it. Im going to wait longer to consider the rest of the trigger assembly. Id lean towards the 25 cent job or just an aftermarket drop in most likely.

    Also, I have looked through other threads, but most are regarding competition guns or entire trigger assemblies.
     
  2. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive

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    It's easier to change out the trigger and bar assembly.
    I have an Overwatch TAC ($125) and an Agency ($150) comes with OEM minus connector.
    Both those triggers are flat faced with a tiny "hook" at the bottom to locate your finger.
    I couldn't pinch my finger if I tried with either of those triggers.
    One reason is that they reduce "take up" and close up the pinch zone.

    Overwatch just released a polymer flat faced trigger and bar for $59.
    It's the Overwatch DAT...it does not have that tiny hook at the bottom like the TAC.
    But it's a cheap way to get into the flat faced, reduced take-up trigger game without having to take your OEM trigger apart and driving pins, etc, etc like the trigger shoe replacement options.
     
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  3. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    Thanks for those suggestions! I do have a CMC flat faced trigger, I got it for my poly build but it doesn't work in it. However, this is my intended carry gun so I want to keep upgrades minimal, hence the trigger face (which I didn't specify my reasoning for) but I will definitely look into those!
     
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  4. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive

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    Overwatch also makes a curved bow trigger called the FALX.
    It too, looks like it closes up the pinch zone...
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. cciman

    cciman MacGyver

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    Take a file (or dremel) and smooth out the trigger to your desired level of smoothness (you do not have to take the ridges completly off, just round off the tops a little, until it is comfortable. You can also reduce the trigger safety shoe to be flush with the trigger face when pressed (test it to make sure it still works).

    All for FREE! And none of the factory safeties are compromised.

    While the trigger is out of the gun, you can do a little grinding on the inside of the trigger guard surface to create extra room, so finger is not pinched during the arc of the trigger travel. Also free.

    If you mess up, the trigger bar is cheap to replace.
     
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  6. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    Thats a good aspect of it all, but I've also come to realize that when I don't already have certain items, I end up spending a whoooole lot more than if I just bought it in the first place. And doing it by hand will never as perfect or symmetrical or whatever the case may be as I would need for it not to bother me lol Im skeptical about dabbling in the danger zone with the safety shoe, but I might have to give it a go for that cmc trigger I have. The thing takes like 15 pounds of trigger pull to retract the safety and by that time it just pops...
     
  7. cciman

    cciman MacGyver

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    Sounds like you have already convinced yourself that you need a drop-in triggger to make yourself happy. Have fun spending the $150+ dollars in what you decide to achieve the placebo effect.
     
  8. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive

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    You said you have a trigger pinching problem.
    If you stay with OEM trigger, you can grind and smooth all you want, but at the end of the day, you still have your pincher.
    This is weird.
    So just to disengage the CMC trigger safety, it takes a bunch of pressure ?
    If so, there is something wrong with that trigger.

    Just get this one...$60 (half of the others).....done.
    https://overwatchprecision.com/polymer-dat/
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2018
  9. FireMedic-50

    FireMedic-50 Silver Member

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    When you lube your pistol do you ever put lube on the connector?

    A lot of people replace trigger bar with G17-22, smooth face trigger bar, if you can't deal with the serrated one. All the Glock safeties are also still intact.

    You have never said what your 23 is for....What is it for? Defense or Ray Gun?
     
  10. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    Its for self defense, and going to be my edc. Thats why I want to keep mods limited, to something like the trigger face, so no I am not already set on a drop in trigger, I simply know that I will over do something or make it unsymmetrical and it will drive me up the wall.

    Also, its not trigger pinch, my finger just rubs raw on the trigger guard. Im going to try deliberately canting my hand clockwise and hopefully it'll eventually even out.

    And yes, the safety tab catches wayyyyy too much of the frame, it has to be enough pressure to basically pop it over the lip of the frame. Its a pain, the oem trigger doesn't do it but the cmc does so it may just be a product malfunction.
     
  11. FireMedic-50

    FireMedic-50 Silver Member

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    23.3 is a nice pistol, I also have one.

    What do you mean by "safety tab"? Catches?
    Slide stop [release] perhaps? If so, is it standard or extended one?
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2018
  12. quasii

    quasii

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    I installed a Zev trigger in my G27... Not for the improved pull, but for snappy Glock, sore finger syndrome... Problem solved.
     
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  13. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    Maybe 'tab' was the wrong term to use... The safety on the trigger, when it retracts, the 'tab' that sticks out the ass end that rests against the frame to prevent the trigger from pulling. That tab, the actual safety mechanism, has so much surface area contact that it doesn't retract properly to allow the fluid trigger pull.

    Imagine taking two sticks, cross them, and push and pull one up and one down, its not gunna go anywhere because they're crossed, well eventually they'll slide and pop off each other. Kind of what the trigger safety in my cmc trigger does. Sorry thats an awful example but the only thing I can think of at the moment.
     
  14. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive

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    He's talking about the trigger safety (dingus) on the aftermarket (CMC) that he has from another project (I think). Hard to track this as the clues come out.
    Many of the aftermarket triggers reduce "take-up" and that can jam the trigger safety hard against the frame.
    In contrast, the OEM trigger safety has clearance from the frame so it disengages normally during the trigger pull.

    This is all a moot point because it sounds like the OP, as more info is released, will not be going with an aftermarket trigger.

    So the OP has an issue with trigger finger rubbing on the inside of the trigger guard (I think). An after market trigger would probably cure this but that seems to be a no-go with the OP.
    I made my recommendation above (Overwatch DAT).


    A simple change to a smooth-faced ($15) OEM trigger (as has been suggested above) may help a little, but will not reduce "reach" like a good aftermarket will.
    Reducing reach would probably be of benefit to the OP and the canting issue.

    The only way I can see to solve these riddles with OEM parts is to send it off to the Glock Whisperer, Johnny Glock, tell him what you want and let him make it so.
    But you have to pay to play.
    It's free to call Johnny Glock and discuss your wants.

    DD
    Who is out of ideas
     
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  15. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    I apologize for the original post not being as clear as I should have made it. You put it together pretty well though. Yes the aftermarket trigger I already have was from a different project. Thank you for including the info about the trigger safety difference from OEM ones. Its not that an aftermarket trigger would be a no go, I would just prefer to replace the trigger face and bar before an entire assembly. I would prefer a smooth faced trigger but a rounded one, which is why I am not inclined to just use the cmc in my 23.3. I have been looking into a number of different triggers and I feel like most are ditching their currents for overwatch ones. To accomodate my preference for a smooth/rounded trigger, I think Ill go with the falx unless something better is presented. Ill probably let that fly for a while and see about an aftermarket connector when the time comes.
     
  16. Benton

    Benton

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    OP,
    My friend only changed the original glock trigger shoe with the Apex trigger shoe.
    He really likes it.
    You retain the original glock connector so nothing is changed internally.
    Reasonable and simple.
    Whatever you decide, good luck and I hope it works out for you.
     
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  17. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive

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    The trigger "shoe" and bar is the assembly. That is how the OEM's are sold as well as most of the aftermarket triggers.
    It's just the easiest way instead of having the end user driving pins in and out to replace only the shoe.

    That CMC has issues and I think it may have soured you on a flat face trigger because of that.
    The CMC safety blade would have to be filed to clear the frame to get normal operation of that trigger.

    I suggest getting the all black version if you want to be discreet with your mods.
    Buy it from a seller that has a no bull return policy.
    Like Brownells or Midway.
    Just in case you don't like it.
    I think that the #1 thing that this trigger will do is to reduce "reach" which should get your hand in a more comfortable position.
    My TAC version pulls the reach back a good amount, yet still has some takeup which I want.

    A connector change will typically either reduce or increase trigger pull.
    (there are some exceptions)
    I would venture a guess that you have a standard connector now.
    It is identified by having no stamped marks on the connector.
    It is called the 5.5# connector but will actually yield over 6# on the trigger gauge.

    I would highly recommend a Glock OEM "-" Minus Connector if you currently have the standard. That's only if you want a little lighter trigger pull.
    These are great connectors with a very audible and positive reset.
    One of the members on here (forget the name) sells the Minus Connector for $18 shipped. That's a few bucks off what the online shops sell them for.
    These are marked with a small "-" sign stamped on the part.

    The aftermarket connectors are all over the place in regards to performance.
    For example, I just rejected a Ghost Ultimate connector because my Glock Minus connector completely out-performed it.
     
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  18. mikemyr

    mikemyr

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    Thats a lot of great info. I appreciate the time you took to write it out for me! I thought the entire trigger assembly included the portion that holds the trigger spring that gets pinned into the grip. I noticed the overwatch doesn't have a black on black falx trigger and considered that so ill look into the other sites for that option! I also just saw that post regarding the $18 dollar minus connectors. Ill poke around for that individual! Thanks man!
    -Mike
     
  19. Dr glock19

    Dr glock19

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  20. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive

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    That's called the Trigger Mechanism Housing (TMH).
    It's not necessary to change that out for a trigger change.

    Overwatch does offer an all-black FALX trigger. Buy from a dealer with a good return policy in case you don't like it.
    https://overwatchprecision.com/falx/

    You might have to start a thread to find him.
    Not long ago he re-posted to let us know that he had some for sale.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2018