Glock 19 Trigger question

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by crash83, May 27, 2020.

  1. crash83

    crash83

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    Which exact part of the Glock trigger system "sets" the "wall"?
    I set my wife's 19 up to her specs [with a little trial and error].
    Ghost ultimate connector.
    Ghost spring kit , did not change striker pin spring [firing pin spring].
    Full polish on all internals.

    The trigger is nice and lite , however it doesn't seem to have a "wall" now.
    She uses this as a range/ target gun, but will be transitioning to a training pistol in the future.
    She would like to keep the pull weight the same [ she likes it as is] but with a more defined "wall".


    View: https://youtu.be/A9K2yGRCvH8
     
  2. Pete perfection

    Pete perfection

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  3. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

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    No.
     
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  4. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

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    The big thing is your connector. The connectors designed to make your trigger pull lighter (and longer) do it by changing the slope/angle of that little lip the trigger bar hits:
    [​IMG]
    The "wall" is when you pull the trigger bar far enough back that it hits the lip on the connector, then the little bit of pull from the wall to breaking the shot is you pulling the trigger more so that the lip of the connector cams the trigger bar down until it releases the striker. Light connectors with the longer shallower angle make the wall less pronounced - they hit that longer slope and just slide on down. The + connector above, on the other hand, has the trigger bar hit hard on that lip and cam it down at a straighter angle, so it take more pressure from you and you feel the wall more.

    Your polishing made it all smoother, but try polishing the contact side of your stock connector until it's shiny and smooth and putting it back in. If that's too heavy, get a Glock "-" connector - that's too little wall for my taste, but almost certainly better than a Ghost or Zev.

    Watch this video - at about 0:15 when the trigger bar hits the lip of the connector, that's your "wall" and that slide down until the striker releases is the rest of your trigger pull after the wall.

    View: https://youtu.be/V2RDitgCaD0
     
  5. ActanonVerba70

    ActanonVerba70

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    Bren is correct. The following is my version of the same concept (probably typing when Bren post).

    The "ramp" angle of the connector gives resistance during the trigger pull. Connectors.jpg The arrows indicate the "ramp" part of the connector. The connector marked 3.5 lb is REALLY 4.5 lb. The rear portion of the trigger bar does not meet with as much resistance using the 4.5 lb connector during the trigger pull (thus not as much of a "wall"). As the angle of the "ramp" slopes down toward the rear (nearer the shooter), there is more of a "wall" feeling (ex. 5.5 lb and 8 lb connectors). Just my 2 cents...….
     
  6. Recon-pull

    Recon-pull Billy Jacked

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    Excellent post.
     
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  7. Recon-pull

    Recon-pull Billy Jacked

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    I’ve tried almost every connector you can find and where did I end up? Going back with stock OEM. Only thing I do is put a light dab of Lucas Oil white lithium grease on the contact surfaces of the connector and the trigger bar.
     
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  8. crash83

    crash83

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    Thank you, this was my original thinking, however i caught myself "overthinking " and ended up running in circles. The biggest difference between her Gen 4 and my Gen 5 , i used the stock Glock connector . And polished it. She preferred her trigger set up to mine. [the slightly lighter pull] . I believe i can achieve what i'm looking for by polishing the stock connector and leaving the springs installed as is.
    Thanks again for an excellent reply.
     
  9. Recon-pull

    Recon-pull Billy Jacked

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    Btw Crash, Overwatch Precision sells OEM connectors impregnated with NP3 so you don’t need to monkey around with polishing.
     
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  10. Glock234Me

    Glock234Me

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    Put back the dot connector. I recommend you to install a Wolff 4.5 firing pin spring if it is a gen4. No need to change anything in the gen5. Just my honest opinion...
     
  11. crash83

    crash83

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    Never change anything in the Gen 5 , just a light polish.
    I don't like to change the firing pin spring. I leave them stock on all Gens.
     
  12. crash83

    crash83

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    Yep, i have used them before. I will end up ordering one, but while i'm waiting , if i can find it, i'm going to through the stock on in and see if i'm good to go or need to possible change the trigger spring. [don't think i will need to though]
     
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  13. harold63

    harold63 I'm not retired

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    Make sure that ramp is smooth and there's no burrs on the end of that 'light' connector along with the TB and it's lighter, still.

    YdoyoureallyneedajohnnyglockstirggerMMV
     
  14. harold63

    harold63 I'm not retired

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    You could hone the bearing surfaces or have a pro do it for you. Personally, there's nothing like a polished, OEM trigger with a Glock other than some slow fire triggers that would go off if you sneezed on them.

    YglocktriggerkoolaidMMV

    Ywhywouldyouwanta2lbglocktriggerinthefirstplaceMMV
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2020
  15. Pete perfection

    Pete perfection

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    I changed to a minus connector and still had the wall when I changed to 6lb spring the wall was gone. Put stock spring back in with the minus and got the wall again.
     
  16. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

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    I did something like that with my 17 I used for competition. I installed the springs from a Ghost connector and spring set, then polished some connectors and tried them and I ended up going with a polished Glock + connector. Hard "wall" but a short trigger pull from the wall to the break and the spring changes make it light.