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trigger pull on sr1911

Discussion in '1911 Forums' started by sharpblade, Jun 6, 2011.

  1. sharpblade

    sharpblade

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    I posted this on a couple forums but thought I would share it with you guys. Have read many posts on several forums and the trigger pull on the sr1911 seem to be mostly the same. First the pretravel, then the creep, then the let off. Mine was the same. Was shooting mine today and was getting irritated bout the creep on the trigger so thought I would try to do something bout it. I tied a piece of paracord throught the skelton hammer and while pulling up and forward pretty hard, I dried fired it 100 times. Now it has the pretravel and then the let off, no creep whatsoever. May not be the way to do it but it worked for me. Just thought I would share.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. limbkiller

    limbkiller

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    Couldn't you just have fired 100 rds. thru it and done the same thing? Just asking. Maybe take the fire control group out and hit it with 400 grit sandpaper a few strokes to smooth things out? I'm glad it worked for you though. Congrats on the new 1911.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2011

  3. knedrgr

    knedrgr

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    I would NOT hit anything in the ignition with anything coarser than a stone type of media.
     
  4. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr CLM

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    Sandpaper would ONLY produce bad results.

    OP used tension to apply excess pressure to the sear surface to quicken "break in"
    Not the preferred method,.....thank heavens he did not use a hammer!
     
  5. CMG

    CMG

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    "Boosting" the hammer is an old method for smoothing things out in revolvers. I'm glad it worked for you on the Ruger, but I bought the tools a long time ago and learned to do my own stoning.
     
  6. limbkiller

    limbkiller

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    400 grit with just a few light strokes I don't think will cause a problem. But I'm new so I might very well be wrong. Old carpenter coming out in me. So what is the right way.
     
  7. lsbbigdog

    lsbbigdog

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    Hard Arkansas stone for hammer & sear.
     
  8. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr CLM

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    Angles & perfect flats are very important. Very hard to keep with sand paper wraped
    around a backer. I my opinion, yes, it will cause a BIG problem!
     
  9. knedrgr

    knedrgr

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    ^ +1

    Small surface + sandpaper = SOL

    Sear and hammer hook are delicate areas, and should be treated with caution. Could easily make your semi auto into a full auto. Hope you have that class 3 tax stamp...
     
  10. CMG

    CMG

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    The only way to make sand-paper (600 grit would be the lowest I'd go) work would be to mount in to a piece of glass or polished granite so that it is ultra flat. Still you'd need a steady hand to keep the sear angle correct.

    Much better to use a good vise and stones, or a sear stoning jig from Ed Brown or a universal jig from Ron Powers. You can do both hammers and sears on the Powers unit.

    Powers Custom Series II
    [​IMG]
     
  11. JGguns

    JGguns

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    CMG is that your setup?
     
  12. CMG

    CMG

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    One of them... I also have Ed Brown's sear fixture that I use a good bit.
     
  13. tx787

    tx787

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    The owner of one of my LGS has his personal SR1911 in the display case. The guys working at the shop (who I've dealt with for years and trust as far as gun store people go) have said the trigger started out with a lot of creep but as it's been fired and dry fired has improved considerably (but still isn't a great trigger or even as good as the Spartan).