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Trigger Bar and Spring Help Needed

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Sgt_Gold, Apr 12, 2012.

  1. Sgt_Gold

    Sgt_Gold

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    I have a Gen 4 G23. I would like to clean up as much of the take up in the trigger as possible. I would also like to sharpen up the break while keeping the total weight no lighter than four pounds. I'm going to polish all the contact surfaces, but my big questions are:

    What do people use for the polishing? Jewlers rouge? Mothers Metal Polish?

    The plethora of connectors and springs has my head spinning. How do they work together and what do I need to accomplish the above trigger feel and weight?
     
  2. Fastfordsrus

    Fastfordsrus

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    I use Mother's polish. If you are wanting to be at 4lbs try polishing and just adding a Wolf 6lb trigger spring. As far as sharpening break maybe someone else will chime in, I have heard of people using NY spring setup but I think it ends up more like a revolver than a 1911.
     

  3. ChicagoZman

    ChicagoZman

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    In my experience the lighter the trigger pull weight the mushier the trigger break. My standard connector triggers, while heavier than those with a "-" connector, feel crisper. But it isn't 1911 crisp. Not sure that is even possible with the sear (rear of trigger bar) and striker residing on two different components of the gun, frame and slide respectively.

    Regarding the trigger springs, the NY1 will give you resistance during takeup, giving you a virtual double action revolver feel. It also speeds up trigger reset. NY2 is for masochists. My favorite combination is the "-" connector with the NY1 trigger spring.

    Your Mileage May Vary
     
  4. MikeG36

    MikeG36

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    Hey Sarge, I use a Q-tip and [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Maas-Metal-Polish-4-oz/dp/B0008D7IV8"]Amazon.com: Maas Metal Polish 4 oz: Home & Kitchen@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31dGcfeB2VL.@@AMEPARAM@@31dGcfeB2VL[/ame]. This stuff works great and it doesn't take long to put a mirror finish on your Glock's internals. I bought it at a drugstore for ~$5 not the nutty online prices.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012
  5. robhic

    robhic WOLVERINE!!!! Platinum Member Silver Member

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    I used auto polishing compound on a Q-Tip and a LOT of elbow grease! :supergrin: Adding the 6# trigger spring as advised above is another good thing to try. Have you thought about using a lighter striker safety spring and / or a 4# striker spring? Don't use the lighter striker spring IF IT IS A CARRY GUN!!!
     
  6. ron59

    ron59 Bustin Caps

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    None of the springs or polishes or anything will have much effect on the trigger take up.

    Honestly... that's something that you can easily "adapt to" yourself. Right as the muzzle is coming online with the target, you can start staging the trigger, quickly taking it from all the way out to right against the sear.

    I and tons of other competitors use Glocks without any changes to the take up. And we get shots of very quickly. We all (or at least many of us) do trigger jobs though. My group (all 'B' class USPSA'er with a couple on the brink of 'A') are running Ghost Rocket with their spring kits installed. Love it.

    For my GSSF gun, I run a Vanek setup (way more expensive than a Ghost kit) that uses a Glock '-' connector and his polish job. It is only slightly heavier pull.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012
  7. NCHeel

    NCHeel

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    Really no way to shorten the take up without getting a trigger system with a set screw or some other method of blocking the trigger. You can polish/replace the trigger bar to get rid of the grittiness so the take up is not so annoying. Knowing where to polish and file on the connector will crisp up the break. With stock Gen4 parts and a "." connector I have my tripper pull at 4# 6oz right now. I just got all the other stock GLOCK parts, like a "-" connector, yesterday and am going to make a video over the weekend of the trigger pull weights with different configurations.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012
  8. Sgt_Gold

    Sgt_Gold

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    I figured that reducing the take up could only be accomplished by using an expensive trigger assembly, so that ain't gonna happen. I shoot the stock trigger pretty well, so I'm going to polish and grease and see where that leads me.
     
  9. NCHeel

    NCHeel

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    The long take up is a by-product of a striker fired pistol. The take up is pulling the striker rearward till the lug clears the connector.
     
  10. Alizard

    Alizard

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    On mine, I fitted a small plastic "pad" where the trigger comes forward so the trigger doesn't return as far. You can glue it in or use double side tape.
     
  11. 208GunGeek

    208GunGeek

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    I just polished all the contact surfaces in my G30 the other day. I used my Dremel tool with a stainless steel polishing wheel.

    http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=530

    It worked well. Those polishing wheels are about $3 at Wal Mart. Just make sure you wear eye protction when using the polishing wheel. Little stainless steel pieces fly off that wheel when polishing, even if you use a low setting on the Dremel.

    If you don't have a Dremel tool and you don't want one, Get some Mothers wheel polish (or some Flitz polish), a rag and start polishing.

    After I polished the contact surfaces in my gun, the trigger pull feels a little smoother.

    Others have posted that there's no way to get rid of the "take up" or "slop" in the trigger. It's true. It's just how striker fired guns are. Hey... At least its consistant :wavey:
     
  12. Sgt_Gold

    Sgt_Gold

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    For what top end trigger assemblys go for,:wow: I can live with the takeup. This is going to be an EDC so I don't need or want a competition \ target trigger. 1911's have spoiled me, and I never really embrased the double\single action of the Sig-HK-whatever. The Glock seems to fit nicely in between as an easy to shoot design with no real down sides.
     
  13. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

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    Personally, I prefer to use Flitz or Simichrome Metal Polish. (You can clean the bore with it too!) Use a Dremel Tool. Place the polish on a felt or cloth tipped wheel. (I use both bullet-shaped and round polishing wheels.) Run the Dremel Tool at around 3,000 RPM; work barehanded so you can monitor heat buildup in the part; and put the polish on the wheel rather than on the part, itself. (Wear old clothes and put a towel or cloth down over your work area.)

    You'd be surprised what smooths out the action on a Glock. In addition to the usual polishing spots I, also, polish the lock block; and I spend a lot of time on the FP Safety and trigger bar's safety cam. The smoothest Glocks I've used all had the machine marks on the safety cam's edges ground smooth; and (Although I've yet to do it on my Glocks.) the upper beveled edge on the FP safety, itself, reshaped and ground smooth.

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6528/Product/FLITZ-POLISH

    One question at a time: I think you'll get farther with a trigger stop. Lone Wolf Distributors sells one. Whether or not it fits the Gen4 I don't know. Ghost, Inc. also makes a combination trigger stop/'3.5#' connector, too. For your use I'd, probably, go with the Ghost, ' Rocket' connector.

    http://www.ghostinc.com/category/35_rocket/

    I carry all of my Glocks, too. Personally, I prefer to use Wolff Gunsprings, 'extra power' trigger and striker springs.

    http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=5#139

    NOTE: If you use Wolff, 'extra power' trigger or striker springs then do NOT use a lighter than standard weight recoil spring; and remember to replace your standard weight recoil spring at regular periodic intervals, too. (Every 5,000 rounds should be sufficient.)

    Personally, I don't like to use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. It just doesn't seem to come up to as lustrous a shine. My strong preference is for Flitz Metal Polish.

    http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1790/rebuildingmyg19.jpg
    http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7887/pivotpinstickingout2.jpg
    http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/7525/pinoutandfilledintrigge.jpg
     
  14. dakrat

    dakrat

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    ding ding ding :perfect10:
     
  15. Glock+2

    Glock+2

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    There are several ways to remove take up (pre-travel), all are simple and cheap.
     
  16. Alizard

    Alizard

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    Depends: the SA XD is a striker fired gun, but it has an actual sear. That trigger can be lightened and tuned up really nice. Not a 1911, but still excellent. Pretravel and overtravel can be dialed in pretty well.
     
  17. Sgt_Gold

    Sgt_Gold

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    Ok, update on the trigger work. I ended up getting a competition trigger spring from Glockmeister, and polishing all the friction surfaces with a stainless steel Dremel wheel. I also swapped out the trigger itself for a flat faced unit that did not have the small dimple that the gen 4 Glock factory part has. I greased all the polished surfaces with a moly paste, and did a function check and some dry firing.

    My NRA trigger weights only go up to 4.75# so I don't know the exact weight, but it feels like a 5.5# trigger with a very light take up and a very smooth let off. For what I paid I think I got what I wanted. Thanks to all who supplied the info and parts help.
     
  18. barth

    barth six barrels

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    My EXO Gen 3 G27 357 has a Ghost Rocket 3.5 short reset connector
    with a smooth trigger and factory springs.

    Reduces the trigger from about ~6 lbs.
    To a crisp, clean, 5lbs break with very little over-travel or reset.
    Pre-travel is left alone and that's a good thing IMHO.

    You can reduce the trigger pull further my changing the springs.
    But I would recommend just the connector to start with.
    Particularly if you intend on using the gun for carry.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2012