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Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by Z71bill, Sep 24, 2020.
My truck does not have a "gas cap".. am I screwed or just lucky??
Cars are designed around speed and ease of assembly on a line in a plant, miles long with the hundreds of workers putting each part in like a puzzle.
After that, it’s your (or the mechanic’s) problem if something needs replacing.
There’s a reason those guys charge so much. Because it’s a total pain in the ass. I would know, I’ve been doing my own wrenching lately.
Thank you for that ! I'm pretty sure I'd rather do it that way than take the tank out ..
Change the battery on a PT Cruiser. (remove the fender and left front wheel)
Change plugs on a Triton Ford engine. (drop the engine or raise the body 'cause the cowl covers the rear cylinders - especially on the E-series vehicles - and the plugs will usually break off in the head)
Change the oil filter on a 2008 Lincoln (remove the tie rod)
There are others - but it's a product that's driven by federal and state rules and regulations and sometimes the engineers have forgotten that the vehicle really needs a battery - and there's no room under the body for it.
Motorcycle builders are the WORST practitioners of this ....
They put the oddest shaped batteries literally anywhere there's still some room ...
Good luck getting a " standard " motorcycle battery ...
I picked up the Tahoe today -
I know it is just in my mind but it does seem to run better - sort of like when you get new tires - or do an oil change -
$640 out the door - I am sort of a cheapskate - and since I don't put many miles on it that is more than I will spend on gas in the next 2 years -
But like I told my wife - just getting it done and over is worth something - and since this is a spare vehicle - fixing it is much cheaper than buying a new one -
I don't know if it's been mentioned yet but you can reset the light on a Chevy by disconnecting the battery for 20 min. Reconnect and the light may stay off. Worth a shot...
Even a cheap code reader will reset the codes ..
Someone at Toyota deserves a Nobel Prize for that arrangement.
Post #69 is of the opinion that 'no good deed goes unpunished' and the Toyota engineer that did that .. got fired .... ..
I'll stick with Subaru. My 2014 Forester has over 100,000 miles.
Not only can I get to everything, the only parts it's needed are battery, rear brakes and bearings.
finished working on my son in laws 2007 ram 1500... pull the whole dash out to replace a broken damper. so we changed the heater core, turned out to be 75% plugged. had to disconnect the AC to get dash out so we had to add 18 oz of freon back... cleaned all the plastic with a bottle of Armor All, looks like new. defrosts the windshield, heats and cools now, about 10 hour job. replaced the previous owns attempt at Dual exhaust with factory stock, we think, strangley enough, there is a stainless muffler ahead of the monster one we installed. it was welded in to stainless piping like original but didn't appear in factory specs but the truck is whiper quiet now with all 3 inch piping. with a bunch of other stuff, like power steering cooler and various fluids it was over $450 in parts. would have cost about $3000 in labor if he went to a dealer...
I have two trucks parked in my yard. A 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO with 55K miles and zero rust. And a 1998 Chev K2500 with 36K and zero rust. I want to sell one of them - preferably the Nissan. It's a fine truck and is much more modern than the Chevy.
That's why I want to keep the Chev - fewer things to go back and cause dash warning lights to appear. Parts all over creation if I need something. Heck it even has crank windows. AC but no cruise. It's just perfect for snowplowing, wood hauling, boat trailering, etc. And, I don't care if I get a scratch on it.
If I sell the Nissan I think I'll put a plow on the Chev, a brush guard, a nice (factory) flat bed, and a sun visor - trick the old girl out. It's a real truck - wth?
It is possible to make a plow vehicle out of ANYTHING ....
Don't do that.
Every time there's an interruption of primary battery power, all your servo motors (in the heater, AC, air divertors, throttle control motors, etc) will need to "find" their home base by swinging from full one direction to the other.
This is fine on new servos and actuators, but when they get a little old - the plastic gears cannot take the pressure and they will rip teeth off the gears.
Then - if you actually want to be able to control the temperature or send conditioned air to someplace other than the defrost ducts, you'll have to replace the ones that fail.
SOME of these actuators and servos require totally removing the dashboard for access.
This is why a real mechanic will use a KAM connection that guarantees that 12 volts is in the circuit all the time any electrical repair or replacement of the battery is needed.
Mess with the KAM and you can wind up paying dearly for it.
BTW: ECMs and BCM, TCM, and any other _CM device will usually NOT lose it's memory by disconnecting the battery - not any more - not since (maybe) 1995 or so. Any fault code in the system will be there when you put the battery cable back on.
HARD FAILURES won't be gone - a FEW SOFT FAILURES might be gone - but don't count on it.
Sometimes it's just a hose. Mine was the sensor but it's under the hood of my Ranger. Took five minutes.
Please people, when you are filling your tank and the gas nozzle flips off, only squeeze it once. I've seen people keep pulling it over and over a dozen times. You're not packing it in your tank, it's going in the charcoal cannister, which can ruin it and when you find out what those damn things cost you will be sorry. It's almost impossible to dry one out when it gets saturated. And yes, I had Emissions training to license inspection stations.
My wife had a 2008 VW Beetle.. to replace the alternator you had to remove the headlight assembly and remove the alternator through the hole
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On modulars (4.6l, 5.4l and 6.8l) I replace plugs no later than 50k miles. They say 100k but in my experience after 50k miles the chance of misfires increases greatly. I've replaced intake manifolds on a 4.6ls already and will likely have another one to do soon. They always like to fail at the coolant passages. There are kits available to convert from air suspension to regular old coil springs if you do not want to pay the big bucks to replace airbags, compressor, etc. The kit is inexpensive in comparison. You will lose some ride quality going to coils though. The panther cars are overral pretty solid but everything has its flaws.
Yes sir, if/when the airbags fail I will likely go with the air ride delete option. As far as the plugs, I haven't really looked at it yet but from looking around online there are 1 or 2 plugs nearest the firewall that are difficult to access. I have a regular socket set and I'm an expert level oil changer not a mechanic . Do them myself or take it to the shop?
1. Check engine light comes on
2. Pull over
3. Raise hood
4. Check engine and it's still there
5. Close hood
6. Continue driving