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Stoning Glock Surfaces

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by jcevans, Jan 22, 2007.

  1. jcevans

    jcevans Shootin' Shep'

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    I've not stoned the trigger bar, plunger, or connector before, though I've done the .25 trigger job. Is there a thread or site that gives step by step instructions on how to do some [ahem :shocked:] stoning? I did a search and didn't come up with anything relevant.

    Specifically, I'm wondering:

    1) What kind of stone to use and where to buy the stone.
    2) Techniques to 'smooth' the surfaces correctly rather than remove metal.
    3) Warnings against what NOT to do.
    4) Any additional instructions that are essential for doing the job right.
     
  2. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

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    You didn't come up with anything because people don't usually have any reason to use a stone on a Glock.

    polishing, stoning, sanding, filing, grinding, etc., are all ways of removing metal, just at different speeds. I've never seen a Glock that had any part so rough it needed stoning or so poorly fitted that it needed reshaping/fitting with a stone. Stoning is vest left to 1911's, S&W's etc., where the parts really need to be fit together or have tool marks removed. My advice on "stoning" a Glock is that you shouldn't do it at all. What part needs stoning and why, anyhow?
     

  3. D. Manley

    D. Manley

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    Using CRATEX abrasive polishing bits in your Dremel tool is reasonably safe...provided, you don't get too carried away. I use an 8X jeweler's loupe to view imperfections on the triggerbar contact points and firing pin and use the Cratex polishers on any "problem" areas with obvious tool marks. I follow this up with Flitz metal polish on (Dremel) felt polishers as a "final finish". On other areas that generally do not require removing tool marks (such as the connector & firing pin safety) I use the Flitz only.

    I personally do not go for a mirror finish on critical contact points such as, the sear engagement. Even with minor imperfections, if the over-all surface area is smooth to the eye and touch it's not worth the risk of poor engagement to make these "mirror slick".

    I also make it a practice to thoroughly "wring out" any trigger that has had the Cratex treatment with live fire to ensure all functions are present. I'd hate to let go a "burst" when I only meant to send a single...
     
  4. InlineSpeeder

    InlineSpeeder

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    I use a fine cut, white hard Arkansas stone on the top of the trigger bar where it comes in contact with the connector. There is a great dvd called making your glock rock that covers this procedure in detail
     
  5. killnbucks

    killnbucks

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    Buy the "Making Glocks Rock" DVD. It is very informative and it covers this procedure as well as many others. The DVD can be purchased at www.midwayusa.com for about $47.

    The tolls you will need to complete the job are a 3/32 punch, a cheap roll of duct tape, a hard (White) Arkansas Stone, a dremill tool with a felt head and a tube of Flitz. You may also want a slightly more abrasive (500 grit) Arkansas Stone. However, if you do, use it sparingly. The link to the DVD is below.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=186832
     
  6. jcevans

    jcevans Shootin' Shep'

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    Thanks for the advice, Bren. The reason I asked about stoning is largely due to a thread from a week ago on roughness experience through some G19 trigger pulls. My G19 seems to be suffer from this roughness as it is MUCH different than my G17. Given the tool marks I can see on the trigger bar, I thought I'd do a little stoning to see if this remedies the problem without causing others.

    Yes, this makes sense.

    I appreciate the info on the DVD and stone. Thanks InlineSpeeder and killinbucks.
     
  7. 10mm4ever

    10mm4ever 10mm Pusher

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    Radiusing and polishing the f/p safety plunger and lightly stoning and polishing the portion of the trigger bar that contacts it makes a real difference when done properly. Also, polishing the area of the cruciform on the trigger bar where it reciprocates within the plastic housing can help. I've done this same procedure(with the .25 trigger job)several times now and it does make a difference.
     
  8. Duck of Death

    Duck of Death

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    I use a well broken in fine diamond hone, a fine ceramic stone and some well used 600 grit w/d sand paper.

    Smooth surfaces = less creep.
     
  9. Bronson7

    Bronson7

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    I used 400 grit wet/dry to just barely remove the stamping ridges and sharp edges on the bird's head and the cruciform/striker interface, followed by a mirror polish job. Turned out VERY well. In retrospect, to be safer next time I'll use 600 grit because it doesn't take much to over do it and my pucker factor was running high with the 400 grit.
    If you use this method, check-as-you-go often and be very careful.
    Bronson7
     
  10. smokem1

    smokem1

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    Go to www.theplacewithnoname.com I have done this to all 3 of my Glocks plus added a Ghost 5.0 tactical connector and Wolf 6 lb. striker spring and 6 lb. trigger spring (sold as a kit). The best trigger I've used or handled on a Glock, not a 1911 but close enough for me. If your worried about angle cutting the striker and the pistol firing if dropped I preformed this test. I removed the sight's then wrapped the slide with a single layer of duct tape. I placed a primed case in the chamber then a loaded mag in the pistol (G23) went into my basement and dropped it on the cement floor 50 times from between my hip and armpit (I'm 6'4") the primer went unfired. I'm sure I could come up with a test to make it fail but everything can fail. If you don't like it or screw up you'll only be out a striker. This makes for a really sweet trigger and you can do it yourself just take your time. For the other worry, a good shoot is
    just that, you will probably be sued good or bad so prepare for it.
    Thanks
    Smokem1
     
  11. Blitzer

    Blitzer Cool Cat

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    You mean you don't sprinkle white stuff over all the parts? :supergrin: