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USS Texas BB-35
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a new S&W 686-6 4", The cylinder is sticking when you try and open it. The thumb latch moves smoothly, and flush to the rear face, the ejector nose is nicely rounded, the front end of ejector looks pretty deeply dished with a somewhat sharp edge on the cup the front lock sits in. The front lock moves smoothly and easily. The cylinder has NO play front to rear.
It seems the sticking point is the front lock/ ejector cup disengagement.
How can I resolve this? Remove a shim from the cylinder?
The trigger was a little rough, and the trigger rebound spring seems a touch weak, as it will hang up dry firing (no range time due to covid)
Any advice would be welcome.
 

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Banned
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2,598 Posts
I picked up a new S&W 686-6 4", The cylinder is sticking when you try and open it. The thumb latch moves smoothly, and flush to the rear face, the ejector nose is nicely rounded, the front end of ejector looks pretty deeply dished with a somewhat sharp edge on the cup the front lock sits in. The front lock moves smoothly and easily. The cylinder has NO play front to rear.
It seems the sticking point is the front lock/ ejector cup disengagement.
How can I resolve this? Remove a shim from the cylinder?
The trigger was a little rough, and the trigger rebound spring seems a touch weak, as it will hang up dry firing (no range time due to covid)
Any advice would be welcome.
You paid good money for this..
Send it in....
 

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Native Mainiac
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27,685 Posts
Have you checked if the ejector rod is screwed in tight? Just try it by hand holding the cylinder and twisting the rod counterclockwise (left had threads)

With a new gun this is about as far as I'd tinker with it before sending it back to the S&W hospital for diagnosis and repair.
 

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USS Texas BB-35
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4,583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ejector rod is tight, and strokes freely. Lock up is tight, other than the sticking cylinder, and weak trigger return, it is a nice pistol. Changing the springs etc is not a problem (I changed some out on my 686-6 7")
I need to get some feeler gages to see what the forcing cone gap is, but it feels like zero. Thats why I am thinking too many shims in the cylinder.
 

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USS Texas BB-35
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4,583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I say it is sticking, I mean that it take a push with two fingers as opposed to one. But not where I have to force it.
 

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Registered
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6,140 Posts
Can you take it back to the shop you got it at, maybe they have a gunsmith that can adjust it fpr you.
 

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USS Texas BB-35
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4,583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Had A chance to look it over VERY closely. cleaned the inside very well, and relubed all pivot, contact and sear points as well as springs (rust prevention) with Go juice. and the cylinder was still about the same. BUT the trigger pull is very smooth, nice clean breaks, and staging.
Flipped the revolver over and saw the forward edge of the Cylinder release button, was impinging on the raised line in front of the cylinder's rear face. Took a hunch pulled the release button off and used the stud to open the cylinder. Easy as you please. I will use a buffing wheel/ dremel polishing disk with some flitz to remove a few thousandths off the front of the button. I am going to put a high polish on her anyway.
I cannot wait to take this one to the range, I have high expectations.
 
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USS Texas BB-35
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4,583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a work sharp that was the ticket for relieving the nose of the latch button. Everything is polishing up nicely. Just need the range to open up.
 

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USS Texas BB-35
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4,583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For most people yes that is true. For me, detail cleaning, polishing, making the sweet load, is as much fun as shooting tight groups.
 

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Previously Will Beararms
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6,661 Posts
I see nothing has changed with Smith and Wesson Revolvers. I’ve only had two new in the box S&W Revos but both were QC nightmares.
 

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USS Texas BB-35
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4,583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The frame, cylinder, and barrel are very nice. On the hammer/trigger I pulled the side plate off, and I put a dab of Simichrome on the double action, and single action sear engagement points, and dry fired it for a few hundred rounds, then cleaned all the polish out with brake cleaner, and lubed all the pivot points, trigger slide, springs, and sear points, with Geissele Go Juice, as well as changed the trigger return spring to 14 lbs (tried the Wolff mainspring but just like my other 686 it would not drive the firing pin out hard enough). Now the trigger pull is a little lighter but very smooth. Took it to the range today, I was very impressed with the way it shot, I had very high expectations, and this revolver exceeded them.
 
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