Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by sakecover, Jan 19, 2020.
Yes. I like the 6 shot
Any 586 or 686 is awesome. If you get or have a no dash, make sure it has the recall work done on it.
I agree. If you're only gonna have one, make it a 4".
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
My first choice is 5", grew up with Skeeter. I've got several 686s, a 586, and a 386. Some 6 shooters some 7. Some cut for moons and others not. You can get 7 round speed loaders same price as 6 so that's not an issue. Not sure I'd give an edge to barrel lengths or capacity. Whatever seems most practical to you.
Maybe the OP just wants it to shoot it and have fun with it .
I have a J-frame S&W model 60 with a 2 1/8ths inch barrel I think.
I dont have the kind of income some people have on here, so this may be the only other revolver I get for another 10 years.
I would think 4 inch 6 or 7 shot would make most sense for my handgun collection.
So the pre dash models had issues from what I've heard. It might be most convenient for me just to look for a dash model.
I assume you already know about the pre-lock vs lock. All S&W revolvers with an external hammer, since around 2001 to 2003 (varies by model), come with an internal lock hole by the cylinder release. A lot of hardcore gun people won't buy a lock revolver, because possibility of something going wrong and gun locking up. Some say it virtually never happens. Some others say it has happened and know of examples. Others say owners had taken those apart and didn't put them back together right. On and on that discussion goes. Pre-locks are harder to find, especially in good condition, and the mechanical condition of them can be somewhat unknown, to a newbie. Best condition pre-locks generally cost more than new guns. New guns can have better production processes and tighter tolerances and stronger materials, although some attribute the occassional lemon to "they don't make them the way they used to". Pre-locks, especially older ones can have a better fit and finish, if real good condition collector guns. Note that the dash just denotes the several changes over the model life. 686, 686-1, 686-2, 686-3, 686-4, and so on. Doesn't mean as much as pre-lock vs lock. Some people favor a particular version for design feature in that run (they may or may not prefer the no dash, but maybe like the -1 or -2 or -3 or whatever they think is the best version).
With 6 shot vs 7 shot, there have been concerns that the 7 wouldn't be as strong. But I haven't heard of any issues. Some say the 7 has a better trigger because the cylinder doesn't move as far per shot. I got 6 because it takes the same speedloaders as my Ruger GP-100 6 shot. Now Ruger also offers a 7 shot. The 6 shot cylinder is easier to clean than 7, because one less chamber. A 7 gun is a little lighter than a 6, because more holes means less metal.
4" vs 6" is an eternal revolver debate. There are also 3" and 5" (usually as a "pro" version). 6" is better for hunting, because of increased velocity (longer barrel allows more complete powder burn and longer build-up of pressure pushing the bullet). 6" is also easier to be accurate with, because increased distance between sights (called sight radius) makes alignment more precise easier. 6" has less felt recoil, because more mass out in front of the gun.
4" carries easier, because lighter, and less length. 4" is easier and quicker to draw with, because gun doesn't have as far to travel before clearing holster. 4" has better balance, because not so much weight on end of barrel. 4" navigates houses and hallways easier, as well as trees and brush, and is less likely to be grabbed by someone else, because shorter barrel.
As usual, there are pluses and minuses, and picking between them all is a matter of personal preferences.
What do you want to do with the gun? That will help to determine 4" vs 6", as well as 6 shot vs 7 shot. Why do you want the gun?
I just picked up a new 4" 686-6 Plus. It's difficult to find a pre-lock locally, if any shop receives one in trade they sell quickly for high dollar, sometimes before reaching the case. The shop had a new one in stock so I snagged it. Smoothest trigger I've had on any new revolver yet.
I like 4" for .357. It seems like the perfect all-around barrel length, and the L-frame seems the best size and weight, for the Magnum round. The 6- and 7-shot cylinders are both 1.565" in diameter. The walls between chambers are thinner on the Plus but I've never heard of any failures in that area. HKS makes the 587 speed loader for it. Unless the gun is being used for competition with specific rules regarding capacity, I see no reason not to go with the extra round. If your lucky you may be able to find a Performance Center model.
But if it's for hunting, according to Ohio hunting regs, what does in matter that 7 shot is no good for competition?
I prefer the 4" 6 shot myself.
Mine would be for multiple uses. I prefer the 4" for drawing from a holster and the 6 shot is legal for competition. I'd have to compromise with a 5" to hunt with. I could still make it work in competition, but not if it's a 7 shot.
I understand what you're saying, but different guns for different purposes is not a bad idea. That way you don't have to compromise and you can have what's optimum for each specific purpose.
This is the one I chose, too, and it's one of my all-time favorite guns. Just a beautiful work for the price, even with that unneeded lock.
I think I'd like it every bit as well if it was the 7-shot, but it's fine for me with 6.
The pros and cons of barrel length and cylinder capacity have been covered well by ithaca's post. Imo, you wouldn't go wrong with any of them, so think about what you want to do with it and just get the one you like best. Let us know what you decide, and have fun.
I’m not a huge L frame fan, but I had a no dash 4” 686 that shot very well.
I have a 4" "transitional" model...that means I have a couple of Mim parts...I believe the 686, especially the older ones, are the finest revolvers available for the $...but I am partial to them, especially since I paid 300 for mine back in '08
I traded an HK45C for a pre-lock 686+ 2.5"bbl. I was a little concerned about accuracy until I took it to the range. I was pleasantly surprised as I shot tighter groups than I ever expected. I'd probably rather have a 3" or 4", but the trade was too good to pass up.
Whatever you get, make darn sure that the front sight is perfectly vertical. S&W quality is not what it once was, and my 686P 5" has a canted front sight that S&W will not fix. Yes, it shoots to point of aim, and that's what matters. But a front post tilted to the right is not groovy.
I like the 586 as I really prefer the fixed sight revolvers.
I also prefer the six shot versions. Speed loafers aren’t made for the seven shot models (Atleast none that I aware of), and that seventh round seems to make moon clips easier to flub as well. If I had to have the seven shot model though I would want it cut for moon clips as I insist on having a fast reload option available.
The 686 is a strong revolver. No worries about shooting magnum loads through them like my K frames.
HKS makes 'em and they are just $10 at Midway.
Off topic, but a +1 "Like" for the Insingo.