Glock Forum - GlockTalk banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a 19-3 that is in great condition. Doesn't appear to have been shot much. However, it does have an issue that I am hoping someone here can assist with.

When shooting the cylinder will stick and I am unable to open it or turn it. It has been lubed and everything works perfectly when handling it unloaded.

My best guess is that the cylinder release doesn't seem to move far enough to fully release. However, that wouldn't explain the locking up when shooting.

I have only shot Federal factory jacketed ammo in it.

Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,474 Posts
Check and make sure your cylinder ejection rod is tight. Left hand threaded, too. Look for firing debri under the cylinder ejection star. Clean everything really well, and then check for endshake, and cylinder gap. Cylinder should have almost no endshake, and about .006-.008 on cylinder gap.
If that doesn't do it, ship it back to S&W(after calling them). Seems the earlier 19's and 66's had a lockup problem, and I do not remember what caused it. Anyone?
 
  • Like
Reactions: STI and CarryTexas

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,723 Posts
That model has recessed cylinders, with the cylinder open load it and check if all the rounds are going all the way in so to be flush with the cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,169 Posts
Follow above advise.

I bought a model 10 that had cylinder release issues. It had been left in the box for a couple decades and the oil had geled up in the ejector rod spring. The spring would compress but then would not expand and I would have to manually move the cylinder release back into the locked position. After disassembly of the ejector rod from the cylinder, wiped it down and cleaned up it. Was good to go. You might be having the opposite problem of a similar situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The ejector rod appears to be tight. I wasn't able to tighten at all. I will check the other items a bit later today.

Thanks,
 
  • Like
Reactions: John_AZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,229 Posts
It could be several things. A free option...if it were me, I'd take down the cylinder in detail and clean it. I had a 19 with so much gunk inside the cylinder that it'd stick. Does it spin freely when open? Any wobble?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,583 Posts
Another thing to look at is the bushing around the firing pin. Since it works well unloaded it has to be the brass dragging on something. No primers are backing out of the case or deforming from too much pressure? Make sure the little pin is free to move in the center of the star and the forward locking point under the barrel. If you can move the cylinder latch fully then it should unlock as you say it does unloaded.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CarryTexas

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,707 Posts
Id check the ejector rod first. Its a very common problem. If its loose, a "tiny" drop of blue Loctite will fix things. Make sure its "tiny", or youll create other problems.

Next, Id look under the extractor star, and make sure its spotless. All it takes is a tiny bit of crap under there, and the gun can and will bind up, make the cylinder hard to turn, especially in DA, and make the cylinder hard to close.

When you reload the gun, you want to dump the empties "muzzle up", so they can drop free. If you remove the empties "muzzle down", you allow any unburnt powder and other crap to drop out of the cases and onto the cylinder and under the star, which is what causes the problems. Best to always clean under the star when you clean the gun, no matter how you do the reload. Id highly suggest, you learn to do it right though.

One other thing I usually do with revolvers when I get them, is flush them out with Gun Scrubber, and then lightly reoil them. You dont have to take the side plate off, just stick the tube in everywhere you can and flush until its coming out fairly clean. Then I put a couple of small drops down in the hammer, hand, and stop. You dont need or want much, but that seems to clear up a lot of problems, or has for me.

If youre comfortable taking it down a little, you can remove the front side plate screw on the right side of the gun. That holds the cylinder in the gun. Once that screw is out, the cylinder will drop off when you open it, with the muzzle down. You can then pull the yoke off the cylinder, clean and flush it, reoil and reassemble.

I usualy also put a drop of oil at the bushing when I clean as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
I had one of the early and infamous model 66's that this happened to. Occurred after shooting only a few rounds, and the cylinder would freeze up. Problem was inadequate clearance between the cylinder and the barrel. As the gun heated up from shooting, the cylinder/barrel would expand to the point they would make contact and lock up. Usually once the weapon cooled down it would loosen up. I sent mine to the armorers at Quantico and they fixed it. If you can't find a fix otherwise, contact S&W to see what they advise. May need a trip back for adjustment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
I had this problem on a 19-3. I was loading my .357’s a little warm.
The forcing cone split. S&W replaced the barrel.

Check the clearance between cylinder and forcing cone.


Sent from my iPhone using Glock Talk
 

·
NRA Patron Life Member
Joined
·
13,559 Posts
I have a mdl 19-4 (Bangor Punta era) Smith.
The ejector rod will come loose, quite easily.
Put ONE DROP of BLUE Loctite on the threads after cleaning them.
(Note: as previously said, the ejector rod is LEFT-HAND THREADS.)

Also, my beloved 19-4 developed a cracked/split barrel after only 125 rounds through it.

The crack/split occurs on the bottom of the barrel/forcing cone, and can be concealed by the ejector rod and shroud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,122 Posts
Also make sure the strain screw ( base of the frame in front of the lower part of the grip) - with some grips
Need to remove the grip to access it- is fully tight.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top