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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day I noticed what looked like rust on the square portion at the rear of the barrel, right where it fits in with the ejection port in the slide. Well i wiped it with my finger and it came right off so I decided to check closer.
I wear this gun about 3 days a week (on my weekends) and I live in Hawaii where it is relatively humid and the air can be a little salty. Sometimes my sweat will touch the left side of the slide and I wipe it off when I am taking it off.
So I took the gun apart and here is what I found. A small amount of corrosion around the square portions of the back of the barrel but what worried my more was the rust inside the barrel. Inside the barrel where the smooth portion ends and the rifling starts there was some rust looking stuff. I tried scrubbing it with the nylon brush and then with a brass or copper (not sure which one is the standard brush material) brush and it still would not get it all off. It cleaned all the excess off but you can still see a small rough patch and discoloration that is consistent with what you would expect to see from rust. It isn't a large amount but it is right where the rifling starts and I am not sure how that will effect it.
The chambered bullet appeared to have been partially corroded too. I wiped it off and it definitely had a little something right where the bullet meets the casing. So I wont be using that round for carry anymore.

I oil that gun maybe 3-4 times a year thought I don't think I have ever sent an oiled patch down the barrel. I thought glocks were fairly rust resistant.
Thoughts?
Thankyou
 

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Looks like you need to be oiling your glock more often. I try to check mine on a weekly bases.
 

· Until I Gota 29
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Glocks are very rust resistant, but you live in an extreme environment. That gun sees a lot of sweat, moisture, and salt. All of those things cause rust. You should always run an oiled patch down the bore, then follow it with a few clean patches. That will leave a very fine coat in the bore. Given your environment, I would keep the gun better protected with lubricant.
 

· Until I Gota 29
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Should I be worried about the interior surface of the barrel as far as accuracy or functioning goes?

I will start applying a finely oiled patch.
I am sure it will be fine, but the only way to know for sure is to shoot it. I would take some more time and scrub it some more. Try to get all the rust off before coating it with some good lubricant. Let the lubricant really soak in for a while, then wipe it out. Then, make sure you keep it oiled. I am pretty sure it will be fine.

The biggest problem I can see it causing would be tough extraction. If there's a lot of rough rust in the chamber, it could cause the brass to stick in the chamber, and make extraction difficult. Again, the only way to know is to shoot it.
 

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This what I would do. get some chore boy and wrap it around a brass brush. lube with some solvent and scrub a few times till it sparkles. then clean it up and lube with some CLP on a patch through the bore. That's it.

I would not worry too much about a little corrosion affecting accuracy. I doubt you would ever notice. there are plenty of mil surplus guns out there with sewer pipe barrels that still can kill ya at 100 yards.
 

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I'd clean and oil it every month if I lived in Hawaii, and every week if I carried it in Hawaii. I always run an oiled patch down the bore, let the oil soak into the metal, then run a couple of clean dry patches through to pick up the excess oil. The only thing to worry about with oiling the bore and breech face of the slide is that oil can seep into the chambered cartridge eventually. The oil can deactivate the powder and/or the primer, the worst thing is if it deactivates the powder but leaves the primer active. The primer usually will have enough energy to push the bullet into the barrel but not out of the barrel, so you've got a bullet stuck in the barrel and if you fire another round you can bulge the barrel and ruin it. Then the bulge can leave the gun inoperable until it gets a new barrel. I don't carry with a round in the chamber but if I did I'd change the chambered round once a week and put the old round into a box intended for target practice only, then put a new round in the chamber.

I've had rust in my Glocks too. My G23 has bare steel frame rails and a dark spot developed on one of the rails. I cleaned it with Hoppe's #9 and a phosphor bronze brush and it left a little impression in the steel when the rust was gone. My G23 and G27 both had light surface rust at the rear of the firing pin channels, in the extractor depressor plunger channels, and my G27 had some light surface rust in the groove that the slide cover plate fits into. I used a .40 phosphor bronze bore brush for the firing pin channels with care not to push the brush into the plastic firing pin channel liner, the brush was a little oversized but it worked. I used a brass faucet screen for the slide cover plate groove, and a trimmed down brass faucet screen wrapped around a q-tip with most of the cotton pulled off for the EDP channels. All with Hoppe's #9. I now coat every metal surface with Ballistol, let the oil soak into the metal, then wipe dry the areas that shouldn't have excess oil like the forward portion of the firing pin channel and firing pin, the cut-outs for the firing pin safety and extractor and both of those parts, and if I carried a round in the chamber I'd wipe the bore dry as well but for now I leave it oily to protect against corrosion. I oil my magazine springs then wipe them dry but I don't oil the metal liners of the magazines.

The way I run the bore brush, I spin it through the barrel and did the same when cleaning the rust out of the rear of the firing pin channels. I spin it over and over as it slowly makes its way down the bore. Doing that should help clean the rust out of your bore better. Also, try running a solvent soaked patch through the bore, then run a phosphor bronze brush, then another solvent soaked patch, and let the barrel sit for half an hour so the solvent can really soak into the rust before you brush it again. The nylon bore brush that comes with a Glock will not do anything to rust, you should use a phosphor bronze bristle brush.
 

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Personally, I would contact Glock and see if they are willing to swap that barrel for a new one -- it is in your interest to have a proper barrel, and it is in Glock's interest not to have unhappy customers posting pictures of their "rust-proof" product rusting all over the internet. It is possible that your barrel was not tenifer treated correctly (or whatever tenifer equivalent they are using these days). Faulty treatment has happened before, and not only to barrels. If the issue was just ultra-corrosive sweat that rusts anything it touches, then you would have seen the slide rusting as well -- it undoubtedly gets more exposure than the barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well thanks for all the help. I will oil regularly and try to change out the rounds a little more often.
Also I will try and shoot it to see if anything is affected.
I will call Glock and see what they say too.

I will report back later if anything interesting comes out of this.
 

· CHL Instructor
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Hey eye - live in Tx where we get a lot of heat and humidity all summer long (okay and spring and into fall lol).

I carry daily and check my carry firearms weekly during the hot and humid months. Also, I do not store my weapon in a leather holster. After carrying I place the firearm on the nightstand which is also near a fan to help evaporate any residual moisture.

Be safe,
Doc
 

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Also, even if you don't live in an environment which may be conducive to this type of thing, people's sweat differs from person to person. My sweat doesn't do anything to guns, but I've seen some people who can touch stainless steel and the next day there's visible corrosion. So to each his own. Just step up the maintenance like has been recommended.
 
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