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Round chambers but trigger doesn't reset.

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Jack Black, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    Anyone else ever have this problem? It's happened twice to me in about 1000 rounds. It's making me nervous. My G23 is otherwise 100% reliable. Well, since I switched back to the stock guide spring anyway.
     
  2. ammoguy3460

    ammoguy3460

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    You mentioned that you swapped out the guide spring - did you use any other aftermarket parts?

    Also, I'd say you can't call it 100% now. Those exceptions do detract from its reliability, you know! :wavey:
     

  3. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    No other aftermarket parts. Just a 3.5 connector. I can't figure it out since the round chambers. I guess the firing pin is not catching on the trigger bar?
     
  4. dryfly

    dryfly Platinum Member

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    This did just hapen to me with my new G33....I was firing one-handed as fast as I could....I had just switched ammo to Speer Gold Dot too....One of the ejected casings hit me in the forehead and the next one chambered but I couldnt fire it. I figured it was because I may have been limp-wristing it....

    I havent had any problems since....but I am a little bummed as
    I havent put 200 rounds through it yet.
     
  5. Gallium

    Gallium CLM

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    Tell us everything you did to the gun...don't give us info in bits and pieces.

    Did you function check it after reassembling?

    What happens when you revert the gun back to it's factory configuration?

    And last, what do you think is the probability, if you have a 100% functioning gun, where you did some work on it, that it's no longer 100% functional, that this lack of functionality is directly related to the work you conducted to the gun?

    'Drew
    :cool:
     
  6. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    Not sure what you mean by function checking it. Do you mean when I first intalled a new part?

    The only thing I've done to it is a $.25 trigger job, changed to a smooth trigger, and an extended slide stop. Both factory parts and installed probably 7+ years ago. I had a Glockmeister steel recoil rod and extra power spring (IIRC) that I installed many years ago also. My gun had never been reliable with 3 pre-ban mags I bought, but was 100% with 10 round mags.

    I never shot that often and I didn't shoot for about 4 years. Less than a year ago I started shooting again and decided to figure out why my gun wasn't reliable with high cap mags. After replacing mag springs, followers, buying several newer mags, and making sure I wasn't limp wristing, I finally bought a stock guide rod assembly, and it's fed 100% reliably.

    That's absolutely everything I've done to my gun. It has less than 3000 rounds through it. The problem happened once several months ago, before I changed back to the factory recoil spring, and again just yesterday with factory spring installed.

    That's really everything I've done to it. Although I guess if you're being a stickler I also added night sights and a Talon grip.
     
  7. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    Oh, if it matters, the ammo used yesterday was reloads from USA Ammo. I don't recall what ammo was used when it first happened, but it was either reloads from Georgia Arms or Federal practice ammo purchased from Walmart.
     
  8. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    I don't see how it could be a limp-wristing problem. In order to reset the trigger, the slide has to go back only a fraction of the distance that it needs to to chamber a round. So if a round chambers, it clearly went back far enough to reset the trigger.
     
  9. TeddyB

    TeddyB

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    The trigger reset is a function of the connector being moved sideways and the trigger bar being snapped back under the lip of the connector. Is that a Glock 3.5 connector? Also it is not mentioned in the manual but, lack of lubrication on the slide ramp that activates the connector can cause problems of this nature as well.
     
  10. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    That's interesting. Yes it is a Glock 3.5 connector. I didn't realize how the connector interacted with the trigger bar. I could definitely see how the trigger might not reset if the connector isn't moved to the side enough, releasing the trigger bar. It hasn't been a habit of mine to oil that area, but I will from now on.
     
  11. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    Oh, and thanks all.
     
  12. G36's Rule

    G36's Rule Senior Member

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    Info like this should be the first thing you post. Why would you leave that out of the OP?

    That would be where I would start. Replace all parts polished on then go back to the range.
     
  13. MSgt Dotson

    MSgt Dotson

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    replace all parts you polished...likely begin with striker/connector.
     
  14. Jack Black

    Jack Black

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    Because it was done almost a decade ago and the problem only came up recently. Anyway, point taken. If it happens again I'll change the parts. In fact I already bought new parts just in case. But I wasn't very aggressive when I did the trigger job. Just some light polishing. I don't see how it would be any different than a well worn gun.
     
  15. TeddyB

    TeddyB

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    Actually, polishing the extractor activation bar and end bearing surface against the extractor and cleaning out the striker block plunger insert cavity as well as the pivot points of the extractor with alcohol will go along way to alleviating the fail to extract problems on the G 36 99% of the times.
     
  16. G36's Rule

    G36's Rule Senior Member

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    WTF?

    Wrong thread dude.
     
  17. Brian Lee

    Brian Lee Drop those nuts

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    It could be that you've got a bad connector, (or it's just worn down badly) and the part of it that is bent over 90 degrees isn't long enough. That would prevent it from being pushed over far enough when it hits the ramp on the slide, and then your trigger would not reset.

    The same problem can also go in the other direction too. If the bent part of the connector is too long, then the ramp causes the connector to try to move sideways TOO far. But since it can only move so far, it puts the slide in a bind and prevents the gun from cycling because the slide movement becomes too stiff when it's trying to go back into battery.
     
  18. G36's Rule

    G36's Rule Senior Member

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    Polishing is just accelerated wear.

    Something I learned long ago. You can polish surfaces that rub together to improve smoothness, but you should never polish engagement surfaces like firing pin lug/trigger bar engagement. Engagement surfaces should be left sharp and they will wear together.

    Anyway. I don't think I would wait for it to happen again, unless this is just a target range gun.
     
  19. Gallium

    Gallium CLM

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    Thanks for the info Jack Black. In order to help, we did need all of the info.

    Clearly, you were limpwristing.











    Ok. :supergrin: I can't keep a straight face much longer.


    Actual answer(s) later...

    'Drew
     
  20. TeddyB

    TeddyB

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    I will offer a counter point in that Glock Pistols have polymer channels that nickle plated parts slide in. The design intent is self lubrication as in Glock curtain rod self lubing bearings designed in the past with excellent success. Polishing the rough edges will not cause wear from softer materials such a polymer in my POV.