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The Resistance
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My RL500 is not quite a year old, and I'm switching it for the first time, from 9mm to 45ACP, and I'm having a helluva time with the little, white, plastic bushing that the failsafe rod rides in and which is clipped into the black metal bracket at the base of the press. I have broken two of those damn plastic things trying to get them out of the black metal bracket. Is there a trick to this thing? It's just supposed to clip in and out, right?
 

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You could just leave the bushing in place and unscrew the plastic wing nut and pull the rod out. No more broken bushings.
 

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With the shellplate slightly raised to provide adequate manuevering room, mine is pushed either down thru the bracket to remove or up into the bracket to install. Don't try to move it sideways to remove it.
 

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The Resistance
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Many thanks. I have had what I'd call a duh moment.

In my determined attempt to get it to work in the way I thought it was meant to work, I failed to see that there are other (and easier) ways to skin a cat.
 

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Many thanks. I have had what I'd call a duh moment.

In my determined attempt to get it to work in the way I thought it was meant to work, I failed to see that there are other (and easier) ways to skin a cat.
I change my press over almost every month, I never take the rod off or remove the bushing. Just slide the rod out of the powder measure & remove the measure. Swap dies & reattach the rod to the powder measure. Simple is often the best.:wavey:
 

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DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.
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Since Mogollon works at Dillon I would go with what he says.
 

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Malcontent
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Many thanks. I have had what I'd call a duh moment.

In my determined attempt to get it to work in the way I thought it was meant to work, I failed to see that there are other (and easier) ways to skin a cat.
Your clarity and candor are welcome and rare qualities on this board of unwashed rabble sir.
 

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I also appreciate the idea presented here. I've had my Dillon Rl550B for just over a month, and have swapped my 9MM dies for my 40S&W dies twice. That #### powder rod always presented difficulties. I like the idea of leaving it in place, and just removing it from the powder measure. I'll try it next time. Thanks.
 

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Bustin Caps
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I change my press over almost every month, I never take the rod off or remove the bushing. Just slide the rod out of the powder measure & remove the measure. Swap dies & reattach the rod to the powder measure. Simple is often the best.:wavey:
Whachoo talkin' bout, Willis?

Is that an older design? On mine, I don't believe the rod will come out of the powder measure unless the bottom of the rod is able to swing out to the side. The end in the powder measure has an elbow that won't allow it to come free unless the rod is at basically a 90 degree angle (think parallel to ground) as opposed to up and down ?

If I've been doing it wrong.... PLEASE school me, as I've had issues with the bushing as well. But I've always been able to get mine out easily enough I've just continued with that method.
 

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DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.
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The way I take off the rod. I pull the handle towards me about a foot. Reach in with my left hand and at the bottom of Failsafe bracket I grab the Shoulder Washer the white piece and pull straight down. Pull the rod out the front of the bracket. Left up and take the rod out of the powder measure. Takes about 3 seconds. If the Shoulder Washer is hard to pull out bend the fingers out a little on the Failsafe Bracket. You want it not real easy to pull out but not that easy where it well fall out.
To install. Put the rod in the powder measure. Swing the rod down, pull the handle forward about a foot, put the rod in the slot. Slide the washer into the hole at the same time pushing the handle back locking the white washer back into the hole. That one takes about 5 seconds
 

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You cannot remove the failsafe rod unless you remove it from the shellplate bracket prior to removing it from the bellcrank.

I know that everyone who has the 550b initially read the manual that Dillon included with the press. We all tend to forget what we've read, especially if we don't encounter the need for certain operations frequently. Anyway, the manual explains the failsafe rod removal/installation procedure very well on page 12.

Next, attach the powder measure fail safe rod assembly to the bellcrank (#17839). Using your thumb and index finger of your right hand, move the lock-link down to align the hole with the slot on the Powder Measure bellcrank (#17839). Then insert the rod (#97000) through the two holes, Fig. 20. Next, lower the operating handle (#20636). Insert the powder measure rod into the slot in the return bracket (#13885) press the shoulder washer into the slot from the bottom. Move the operating handle to the priming position, press the operating handle firmly forward. Tighten the blue wingnut (#13799) until the top of the spring (#14033) just touches the underside of the return bracket (#13885). Release the operating handle to the up/rest position.

I guess Jack will call me a geek again...​
 

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Bustin Caps
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You cannot remove the failsafe rod unless you remove it from the shellplate bracket prior to removing it from the bellcrank.
Yeah, that's what I thought too, which is why Fred's post gave me confusion.
 

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Yeah, that's what I thought too, which is why Fred's post gave me confusion.
I never remove the rod. I unhook it from the meaure @ then let if hang form it's spot. Then remove the measure & reattach after changing dies. Maybe I am not undertanding what you are tyring to do.:dunno:
 

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DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.
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I never remove the rod. I unhook it from the meaure @ then let if hang form it's spot. Then remove the measure & reattach after changing dies. Maybe I am not undertanding what you are tyring to do.:dunno:
What powder measure are you using? Are you using the rod that has the clip on top of the rod? The new rods are bent 90 degrees and bent another 90 degrees. On the tip.
 

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The Resistance
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks for everyone's responses.

Wife and kids prevented me from going down to the "chamber" until last night, and I gave the above-mentioned tool head change a whirl. Removing the nut at the bottom of the failsafe rod didn't do me much good because without removing the tool head, the rod won't slip out of the bushing. In the end, I removed the tool head and didn't remove it from the bushing or the bushing from the bracket, but it flexed the rod a good deal, and if it weren't for the fact that I was frustrated, I may have worried that I might flex it to the point where it was bent.

After I got the 9mm tool head off, it was easy to put the 45 tool head on because everything was loose on the powder drop die. The next question might be to ask why I just didn't loosen up the 9mm, and the reason why I didn't was because I beat my head bloody getting the damn thing to work, which included several calls to Dillon and a few free parts. I'd have cut the failsafe rod before I loosened the 9mm powder die parts.

Here's what I'm working with. I still maintain that it should be easier to deal with when changing tool heads than it is.

 

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Palouse - This is the order that I use when changing calibers.
1. Lower press handle to raise the shellplate appx. one inch.
2. Push down on the white bushing that retains the failsafe rod in the shellplate holder bracket until the bushing pops free.
3. Move failsafe rod sideways to clear shellplate, lower shellplate to resting position.
4. Loosen the two allen screws that attach the powder throw to the powder thru die.
5. Remove powder throw from powder thru die, leaving failsafe rod attached/threaded thru the slots in the bellcrank.

To reattach the powder throw, reverse the above procedures.


UncleBob, I think Fred meant that he only removes the failsafe rod from the shellplate bracket, and lets it hang freely from the bellcrank until he reattaches it to another toolhead setup.

That's what I do for the powder throw die that has the small bar installed when moving it between toolheads. My other powder throw is of the prior Dillon design that utilized two return springs and no failsafe rod. That powder throw has the large bar installed and is used for rifle charges.
 

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DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.
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Read my post #11 on how to do it. Second the failsafe rod goes from the left side to the right side of the powder measure.
 

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The Resistance
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
You cannot remove the failsafe rod unless you remove it from the shellplate bracket prior to removing it from the bellcrank.

I know that everyone who has the 550b initially read the manual that Dillon included with the press. We all tend to forget what we've read, especially if we don't encounter the need for certain operations frequently. Anyway, the manual explains the failsafe rod removal/installation procedure very well on page 12.




I guess Jack will call me a geek again...​
But I have read the instructions, and that damn bushing doesn't slide in and out (both vertically and horizontally) quite like the instructions says it should. The last time I tried doing it the way the instructions says I should do it, I broke two bushings (they sent me extras).

I'm thinking I may just straighten the rod at the top and either thread it and double-nut it so it stays, or I'll just drill a hole and install a cotter pin.
 
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