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Removing Lead?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by steve4102, Jan 25, 2010.

  1. steve4102

    steve4102

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    Since I started loaded for handguns I have only used jacketed and plated bullets. I've decided to give lead bullets a try. I ordered a bunch of Missouri and Penn 200gr LSWC.

    I did the Google and searched for the best way to remove lead from the barrel of my 1911's. Most of the search results were from 2006 and older. Lots of great advice, like the Chore Boy Copper pads and the Lewis Lead remover, but it's old. Just wondering if there are any new and improved products or solvents you guy recommend for easy lead removal?

    Thanks
    Steve
     
  2. Randy from Kansas

    Randy from Kansas

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    May I suggust before you start really finding a way to remove the lead you instead play with different powders and loads and bullets and try to find one that does not lead the barrell.

    That said I have used several different products and most worked just fine. I still like the Bore Tech products for cleaning.
     

  3. 9x45

    9x45 Millennium Member

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    oldest Bullseye shooters recipe on the planet. 1/2 hydrogen peroxide and 1/2 white vinegar. Plug the barrel on the chamber end, let the solution bubble for a few minutes, and run a solution soaked patch thru it. Done, oh, clean the bore first with a conventional media, like Hoppes to remove the blast residue.
     
  4. fredj338

    fredj338

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    I still use CHoreBoy. A wet patch w/ Kroil oil to get some of the carbon out, then ChoreBoy for 4-5 passes, then a solvent patch, then done unless it's gonna sit in the safe, then it gets another oiled patch.
     
  5. El_Ron1

    El_Ron1 AAAAAAAAGHHH!!!

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    Make sure they're copper:


    [​IMG]
     
  6. dudel

    dudel

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    Outers Foul-Out. No fuss, no muss on pistol barrels. Takes it down to the atomic level with no scrubbing. Course, it's been around for a while also.
     
  7. TKM

    TKM Shiny Member Lifetime Member

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    There are a few folks over at surplusrifles.com who make their own el-cheapo Foul-Out knockoffs.
     
  8. Blinkster

    Blinkster

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    +1 for Outers Foul-Out.
     
  9. boredstupid

    boredstupid

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    +1 for el-cheapo Foul-Out knockoffs

    Made mine Sunday total cost $7.99 works great for me.
     
  10. BigDog[RE]

    BigDog[RE] NRA Member

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    I have an Outers Foul Out that I use on occasion, I have also used a Choreboy pad a time or two. However, since I found out that my 1911 likes bullets sized at .451 I don't use either of those, a quick pass or two with a boresnake and the barrel is clean after shooting hundreds of 200gr LSWC rounds.

    Sizing is key, as long as your barrel is in good shape.
     
  11. Jumper

    Jumper

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    Can you post a link? I'd like to see how they do it and probably make one.
     
  12. buckshotshorty

    buckshotshorty

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    I give all my cast bullets a very light coating of Lee Liquid Alox. It keeps smoke and leading way down to all but nothing, and actually seems to improve accuracy.

    I place about 150-200 bullets into an empty coffee can or bulk bullet box, draw a letter "Z" using the Alox liquid over the bullets; shake them up to coat each one, and let them dry over night on a sheet of waxed paper, and you're good to go.
     
  13. Jumper

    Jumper

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  14. kubura

    kubura

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    buckshotshorty,

    Is Lee Liquid Alox lube causing the bullet seat dies to get gummed up?
     
  15. umrek

    umrek NRA Member

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    Chore Boy... you'll never look back!
     
  16. dudel

    dudel

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    Doesn't on mine. Projectiles with LLA look like they've been varnished. Key is in letting them dry fully. You don't want them feeling tacky. I cut my LLA 50/50 with mineral spirits. Drys quicker works great.
     
  17. buckshotshorty

    buckshotshorty

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    Only happens if you're using too much. I have found it works best with only a light coating.
     
  18. hoffy

    hoffy

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    with jacketed bullets if it is not too bad. Only been doing it for 30 years. Still have to clean afterwords obviously. Also lyman and others made abrasive cloth that you could cut into patches that worked well. I bought a bunch years ago so do not know if it is still being made. For serious leading I use a lewis first, then the lyman patches. Do not tr to blast lead out of a seriously fouled bore with jacketed bullets or you might ring the barrel. Seen it happen, so I only follow up with jacketed if fouling isn't that bad. Physical methods are quicker than chemical methods, but electrochemical can work really well, but can be fiddly. If you are getting serious leading then something is wrong. If you are going to shoot a bunch, then you need to slug the bore and order the correct sizer die. Also alloys that are to soft, or hard can cause excessive leading. I cast a lot but sometimes buy store bought lead and often they are very hard and you have to use a warmish load to get proper obturation . For pistols I have had good luck with plain old wheel weights . Have some linotype I hoard for the rifles. Regarding bullet sizers I like the SAECO/Redding but have an RCBS too, lube-a ton of them on market, but usually use RCBS green for pistol and the rcbs rifle lube(soft) for rifles. I also have a lot of Herters alox around too(thats how long I have had it, bought a bunch 20-30 years ago and still have some. Experiment and see what works. :whistling:
     
  19. kubura

    kubura

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    Thank you.