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RemOil With Telfon

  1. I use RemOil on my Glock but it seems to evaporate from inside the gun within a few days. Is the oil supposed to evaporate and leave a film of Teflon on the surface?
     
  2. meant Teflon in the title
     
  3. Save the Remoil for door hinges. You can either search for "lube" or
    use some of the most common.
    I use Weaponshield CLP for cleaning. I use Militech 1 for a lubricating oil.
    Many like Breakfree CLP, many use Mobil 1 engine oil with great results.
     
  4. Remoil is some crap. I used Breakfree CLP for cleaning and Miltec for lube. No problems!
     
  5. I use Remoil for cleaning and a few drops of Mobil 1 for lube.
     
  6. Remoil is a CLP, so it's basically the same crap as Breakfree.

    CLP means clean, lubricate, and protect so they ALL have petroleum distillates in them to clean, so over time they ALL mostly evaporate...

    As long as you give your Glock 3-4 drops once a month of the Remoil (or any other CLP including Breakfree) it'll keep your gun running just fine.

    You could try some "lube-only" products like TW25 or Tetra if you want, and just use the Remoil for cleaning and for hard to get spots, but really, a $1.50 little bottle of Remoil lasts about 6 months to a year with a Glock when using it in all three processes to clean, lube, and protect. YMMV.
     
  7. More than good enough for a Glock.
     
  8. Toss the Remoil in the trash and get some Shooters Choice FP-10.
     

  9. :thumbsup:
     
  10. Mobil 1 being used is VERY popular. Engine oil was used in WWII,
    worked well for them.
     
  11. I posted a question about the "cleaning" part of REMOIL (or any other CLP). Aside from the barrel, where and how do you use a CLP product (remoil or other) for the "C" part of the CLP.

    I know I'm a newb, but since CLP's also "lube" it seems that you wouldn't want to use it to clean the frame, etc. because it would leave a residue attracing film where you don't want it.:dunno:

    To me, it seems that you need a fast drying solvent like alcohol or dare i say NC brake cleaner to "clean" the gun (receiver and all) and then use the CLP or simply lube products to do just that--lube...:dunno:
     
  12. +1!... You just can't beat it IMO... I'm still on the same quart going on near 3yrs now... Use it to lube all my guns from AK to Glock and have never had a problem.
     
  13. I use CLP for cleaning and LP for lube. It is what I run on my Ar's too. Never a problem been using this combo for over 20 years.
     
  14. Remoil is NOT a CLP and it is not much of a lube either being very outdated. CLPs do multiple things poorly. Breakfree CLP at least does a good job protecting against rust but it's not much of a lube or cleaner. Some people don't like to hear this because both products are cheap and thats what they want. Glocks withstand use of products like this better than most but that doesn't mean I'm going to use them.

    TW-25B is NOT lube only. It is quite a good protectant. This is well known. We used it extensively in the Marines to protect against salt water damage. Buckets full in fact.

    Mobil 1's only positive quality for weapons lubrication is that it is cheap. If cheap is your primary concern in weapons care then have at it.
     
  15. Please elaborate... Please!?!:dunno:
     
  16. Would you run gun oil in your cars' engine ? :dunno:
     

  17. That's a bit like comparing apples to oranges.:upeyes:
     
  18. Our teams aside.
    I use CLP for cleaning and lube for barrel, and Shooters Choice for the rails.
     
  19. No, I would not consider this stuff in the same league as Breakfree CLP. I don't use CLP either, but have for years. I used RemOil a couple of times and found it to be much to light for any kind of serious lube. I will not use it on anything except a fishing reel and door hinges now. BTW, I use Mobil 1 and Dexron III ATF on all my weapons with great results.
     
  20. Elaborate how? That Mobil 1 is obviously designed for cars and not firearms? it's too thick, does not lube well, firearms operate mechanically different from car engines....etc.
     
  21. Been using rem oil for 60 years in more guns then most people will ever buy, never had any of them break down. All this crap about car oil, bacon grease, crisco, or all the other stuff people use is a lot of bull. :whistling:
     
  22. That statement is a joke.

    No industry has more knowledge about metal to metal friction than the automotive industry. How much money do YOU think Breakfree has invested in research, vs. Catrol, Valvoline, or Mobil? How much (do YOU think!) does each race team in NASCAR invest in their MOTOR oil each race?

    Your gun is worth say $600. What do you think your crankshaft, engine bearings, piston, rods, valves, rockers, etc. are worth. You can run 10k miles on an oil change, even if you are a quart low. A race car will run 500 miles at over 150 mph in a single race at over 6500 engine RPM's, and that engine will last for at least one race. Your everyday car depends on your motor oil to LUBE in extreme temperatures from -40 to 300F.

    Think your Glock is ever going to see that amount of stress and heat? Do you think you are overpaying for that CLP, or that little syringe of Brand x lube with a macho name?


     
  23. I'm going to start using the Wal-Mart full synthetic engine oil, Hi-Tech. Will 10W-30 be thick enough?
     
  24. Based on my studies and testing, I have to agree with this. I used many different lubes on the market, ranging from TriFlow (mainly an all purpose lube that works very well on most things) to the Weapon Shield and I have some Machine Gunners Lube, along with Slip 2000. While the WS, MGL and Slip 2000 work as good and I have no complaints, the M1 and Dexron III combination work every bit as good and I have had no failures at all while using this lube. It stays where it needs to, and keeps lubing well after 900 rds in an AR BCG. The BF CLP needs to be reapplied often to keep doing it's job under the same circumstances.

    The comments about "Would you run gun oil in your car" crack me up because I have always considered "gun Oils" as inferior to car oils. So NO, I would not run gun oils in my car engine.
    BTW, the tranny fluid I use is there due to it's anti oxidation(which engine oil does not have) properties and high detergent capabilities it gives the oil, which despite what some may say, lubricates pretty darn good in my experience.
     
  25. It says right on the can the following:

    Proven excellent for cleaning, lubricating, and corrosion-protecting fine firearms.

    It is a thin oil and does tend to evaporate faster than others.
     
  26. I use Dapper Dan's Pomade on all of my guns.
     
  27. I don't know if I'm missing something obvious about my own question, and that is why nobody ever answers it:crying: but, again-- What parts of the glock besides the barrel can you clean with remoil or any other CLP type product???

    The fact that CLP's leave a lubing oil/residue behind it seems that you'd want to AVOID getting them into the chamber, trigger mech., etc. (basically anywhere on the receiver), Let alone spray these areas down while cleaning. Woudln't this actually promote grime/gunk biuld-up, and is the reason why Glock does NOT want lubricating products in these areas?

    Maybe I'm WAAAY off here, but it seems to render CLP's as really only "LP's":dunno:
     
  28. I used Remoil but switch to something else because Remoil just didn't hold up. It's an OK lubricant on small caliber guns in my book. I have no problem using it on my .22s for instance. But for my larger caliber guns I switched over to Gunzilla CLP. It doesn't evaporate and the stuff is friggin' slick to the touch.

    Of course for my larger caliber rifles I still use grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic Bearing Grease) on the moving parts.
     
  29. You bring up a good point on residue and it attracting dirt build up. I do use RemOil spray at times to clean out the internals, but use compressed air to blow most of it out after application to minimize this.
     

  30. It is now very clear to me that you know little about either cars or firearms:rofl:
     

  31. I like Fop myself:supergrin:
     
  32. Yep!...:perfect10::goodpost::thumbsup:
     
  33. Really.:upeyes: How so ? :dunno:
    Yeah, just be sure to change it every 3,000 rounds.
     
  34. To answer your original question- "would you run gun oil in your cars' engine"

    No, I would not run gun oil in my car, that's the point.

    You're comparing the stress your weapon endures to the stress an engine has to endure?:rofl:

    I pick and choose my battles, and this one my friend is just ridiculous!:supergrin:

    Remember, everyone is entitled to their own opinion, it's just that yours doesn't matter.:supergrin:
     
  35. My point exactly. This is why it seems to me that a fast evaporating SOLVENT seems to be the best choice for CLEANING the receiver/internals, and then any "LUBE" and/or "PROTECTOR" can be used in the minimal amounts that Glock specifies in the few areas.

    This way, most all gunk/grime and deposits are removed from the receiver, and it is left dry. Again, this seems to render ANY "CLP" as really only usefull for their "LP" functionality (at least for Glocks, anyway).

    At that point, the options for products for JUST lube/protect functionality of course are practically endless.

    I find myself actually leaning to NC brake cleaner to blast out the frame/receiver--followed by a good wipe down for aiding in cleaning and even faster drying, then may end up in the Mobil 1(or whatever) camp for lubing.

    In my minimal experience, but good deal of reading, I would argue that the lube/protect portion of Glocks is easy and minimal.

    The fact that you re-apply fresh lube/protectant after each cleaning anyway makes the lube choice seem for all intensive purposes, a moot point. In reality, how long does any one lube application stay on your gun before you clean and re-lube anyway?

    That makes the choice of a cleaning product more of the issue, and CLP's don't seem like the optimal choice for cleaning function.
     
  36. For what it's worth, I use gun grease on my EDC so it stays in place. We've got a number of debates going in this one thread:
    1. BreakFree vs RemOil
    2. Mobil 1 vs gun oils
    3. Pomade vs Fop
    No need to get excited, gents. It's a free country. Use what makes you happy.
     
  37. I use Slide Glide Lite on rails in temps above freezing. For all other lubrication, I have switched to Mobil 1. It's a superior product.

    CLPs are great for pouring into an automatic weapon. But they are not the best for C, L or P.
     
  38. This sums it up for me quite well. As a civilian shooter, I collect and use all kinds of firearm lubricants (GunButter, Weapon Shield, Break-free products, moly grease by several different names, etc.), but no matter which one I use, they are often still there and cleaned off right after a day at the range. (Loving BHPs for years, the most difficult challenge I've had in owning firearms is slowly bringing myself to incrementally decrease the amount of lubrication I use on my Glocks.)

    Were I on active duty and deployed somewhere salty or sandy, I'd probably use Tuf-Glide and be done with it. Cleaning products are definitely more of a concern for me - I like KG products and Break-free bore cleaning foam. I have used the RemOil spray for lubricating anything I just want to cover with a coat of really thin oil in a hard to reach place for additional peace of mind.
     

  39. I use Remoil for cleaning my G19 and then Hoppes for lube.
     
  40. I like the idea of using the Remoil WITH TEFLON for cleaning the barrel. I also like it for lubing the connector bar spot on the back of the reciever. Don't know how effective it is at imparting a slick "teflon type" coating/protection--but I like the idea.

    I got the notion by watching Hickok45's youtube video in which he uses Ballistol. I'd use Ballistol if were more easily available, and cheaper. As far as the slide goes--since you clean it off/re-apply lube at such regular and frequent intervals anyway, it doesn't seem to matter what lube you use here.

    Jury's still out on whether or not N.C. brake cleaner is "safe" for the polymer. I have only used it once (after about 250 rounds through new gun). I held the receiver upside down, gave a couple of blasts, and watched the dirty drippings fall away. I followed immediately with a rag and toothbrush. VERY clean and VERY dry.

    For as often as I expose the polymer to the stuff, I think the gun will be o.k. Again, it dries/wipes off so quickly and completely. it's not like the gun is immersed in the stuff for any length of time either.
     
  41. Try this experiment:

    Take a small drop of your favorite lubricant, place it on a hard, impervious surface (Obama's head comes to mind, but that's another FF topic) and wait. I tried this with Break Free CLP, Mobil 1, Militec, FP-10, Hoppe’s #9 solvent, and some others I can't recall. Not one of them evaporated after about week. I don't know if that means they will stay on your pistol or not, just that I don't think any of them evaporates very quickly.
     
  42. I used RemOil for years on all of my weapons. I only started using CLP after I got my first AR. My experience with RemOil has been positive. I've experienced no problems with it in shotguns, rifles, and pistols.

    A few years ago I switched to TW25B for rail lube, then Slide Guide. I can honestly say that I didn't like the Slide Guide, although it was strictly personal preference. I switched back to TW25B on my Sigs. I continue to use RemOil for oiling the barrels when Im done cleaning, and I've used a bit lately for general lube as well.
     
  43. Remoil is very thin..
    I use it for lubeing revolvers inerds were I don't want a thick gooey oil or grease.. It's worked for me for many years BTW..
    For my Glock I use one of many CLPs such as FP-10, Militec-1, or Weapon Shield & TW-25B on the conector/trigger bar interface..
     
  44. Remoil (or any other CLP) can be used to clean a gun then to lube the gun too (the "C" and "L" in CLP)... it'll also help protect the gun from corrosion (the "P").

    Remoil is indeed thin and indeed evaporates fairly quickly (days to weeks, not within minutes to hours), and it may not be the best stuff ever, but it works and works well... I've used my Glocks at matches shooting lots of rounds in 14 degrees of cold and 100 degrees of heat and never once had a problem. Don't drench your whole gun in it and it won't attract anymore debris than anything else out there would.



    Now that said, while I haven't tried it yet, I think the folks who are using Mobil 1 are onto something... it seems to work pretty good in my Porsche.
     
  45. :rofl:
     
  46. So what type of "Mobil 1" is everyone using?

    10W-30
    0W-40
    5W-40
    5W-20
    5W-30
    0W-20

    Or does it depend on the time of year type of gun or rate of fire?


    :embarassed:








     

  47. I was hoping you'd like that:supergrin::rofl:
     
  48. Roger that. You can put me on the list of folks that use Rem Oil in lots of different firearm platforms. It does well in Glock.

    All of this other prattle is merely marketing hype. :soap:
     
  49. These lube posts are more boring then obama speeches. No wait, the 45 versus the 9mm even beats that.:rofl:
     
  50. What is everyone's opinion of M Pro 7?