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Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Tick_Tock_Glock, Feb 9, 2010.
Lubriplate or TWB25 on the rails and Mobil 1 on everything else. Never had a problem.
What ever happend to good old fashioned "gun oil"???
Or how @ WD40???
Oh now you've done it. Somebody's head will explode after just looking at that "WD" word.
I use RemOil for wiping down the metal parts of my guns or where a very thin oil is needed. I think it evaporates and moves around too much for most parts that have friction with other parts. On slide rails and bolts I just plain old $3 a tube axle grease. A little dab will do ya and it stays right there where you put it until you clean it off. Everything moves and nothing is rusting so I guess I'm doing okay.
Sounds like a job for Brylcreem.
I been using Slip 2000 EWL on my pistols and AR's for the last year with great results.
I still have my Pop's 1897 Winchester 16 ga. pump. It has no bluing left and is shiny all over. No rust anywhere.
it has been very much used as he was an old timey Quail Hunter. The hammer checkering is worn smooth from cocking it with his thumb for the first shot.
I can't begin to guess how many times it has been shot over the yrs. as he hunted well into his 70's.
He only used it in Quail seasons and the rest of the time it hung over the mantle or stood in a corner.
All he ever used was boiling water or kerosene for cleaning and 3 in1 machine Oil for protection and lub.
It seems to me the old stuff works very well.
I might try the Mobil 1 Dextron III mix if I ever use up the multitude of gun oils around here. That sounds like a good home brew. In the meantime there must be at least 1 1/2 gallons of gun oils in the closet. I believe the best ones are the ones given out free at gun shows and on the internet. Doesn't matter who made it.
"Gun oil". I agree. As long as you keep things lubed properly, generic "gun oil" is as good as anything. I've used a variety of oils and they all work great. Right now I've got a quantity of BreakFree CLP and Kano Microil and I use whichever is closest at hand when I need it.
WD40? I use it to spray down tools that have gotten damp or for cleaning corrosion off electrical contact points but not for lubrication. It's a better solvent than lubricant.
I like KY because of the wide range of uses.
You must be a Dapper Dan man.
You sound like you are about 12 years old.
It's an excellent cleaner.
That statement makes no sense. One of these things is not like the other.
I don't understand your post.
You mean that Mobil 1 was issued to troops to clean and lube small arms?
Tank Bogy wheels?
Or was it a fact that troops used engine oil as a field expedient cause proper oil wasn't easy to get in the front lines?
About 15 years back, I put a bunch of new nails, in a board and wiped them down with all the stuff I had around, to use on a gun and put it in my backyard until there was enough rust to see what was going on. Around 7 days was enough. Not very scientific, I know, but it showed me what I wanted to know. I'm on the west bank of Galveston Bay, sorta salty air around here.
The nails treated with Eezox did not rust at all. Remoil was worse of all the ones tried. 3 in 1 oil was much better than Remoil and as a matter of fact, 3 in 1 would be my choice behind BF CLP or Shooters Choice FP-10. The Eezox is just a little too thin to suit me for lube and I usually use Shooters Choice FP-10 or BF CLP, in that order, for that. For long time storage, Eezox can't be beat as a rust preventive. Guns that I use more frequently get the FP-10 or CLP for lube and short term rust prevention.
For a solvent, old Hoppe's #9 (the smelly kind-old stuff) can't be beat. It's not the ammonia type solvent.
I haven't found any 1 particular product that I would be comfortable with, for all 3 purposes, cleaning, lubricating and preservative. I just use the ones that I need under the circumstances at the time. Please don't use WD-40, it will turn to hard bubble gum.
Of course there might be differences in effectiveness between "protection" and "lubrication." The finest protectant might be only an adequate lubricant, and vice versa. GLOCKs are so forgiving, generally, that any lubrication, from the most expensive high-speed, tefmolypolymolecularizedsuperdupermiraclemixture to the cheapest pop's leftover can-drippin' engine url will work fine, when applied properly. For long-term storage and rust prevention on finely blued weapons, the choice will be more important.
Remington recommends Rem-Oil for cleaning/lubing the trigger assembly of an 870. In other words, it's a light oil that has some cleaning properties. To be suitable to clean/lube an 870 trigger assembly (as removed from the receiver, but not disassembled further), it would have to be very light.
With that said, many lubes will mostly evaporate or run-off after only a few days. Break-Free CLP will certainly do this. So will Rem-Oil. I've found that MPRO 7's CLP lasts much longer. So does their dedicated MPro7 gun oil. I've also found a medical-grade lubricant sold for weapon use called "Snake Oil" (Dillon catalog) that seems to last longer than anything I've ever used.
I'm basically using either Break-Free CLP or MPro7 CLP on my guns now (BF on my older guns, Mpro7 on more newly-acquired guns). I always use the same cleaner on the same gun. I don't worry about lubrication. Once a month, or immediately prior to a range trip, I re-lube. Zero problems. Zero rust.