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Try this experiment:

Take a small drop of your favorite lubricant, place it on a hard, impervious surface (Obama's head comes to mind, but that's another FF topic) and wait. I tried this with Break Free CLP, Mobil 1, Militec, FP-10, Hoppe’s #9 solvent, and some others I can't recall. Not one of them evaporated after about week. I don't know if that means they will stay on your pistol or not, just that I don't think any of them evaporates very quickly.
 

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I used RemOil for years on all of my weapons. I only started using CLP after I got my first AR. My experience with RemOil has been positive. I've experienced no problems with it in shotguns, rifles, and pistols.

A few years ago I switched to TW25B for rail lube, then Slide Guide. I can honestly say that I didn't like the Slide Guide, although it was strictly personal preference. I switched back to TW25B on my Sigs. I continue to use RemOil for oiling the barrels when Im done cleaning, and I've used a bit lately for general lube as well.
 

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Remoil is very thin..
I use it for lubeing revolvers inerds were I don't want a thick gooey oil or grease.. It's worked for me for many years BTW..
For my Glock I use one of many CLPs such as FP-10, Militec-1, or Weapon Shield & TW-25B on the conector/trigger bar interface..
 

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Remoil (or any other CLP) can be used to clean a gun then to lube the gun too (the "C" and "L" in CLP)... it'll also help protect the gun from corrosion (the "P").

Remoil is indeed thin and indeed evaporates fairly quickly (days to weeks, not within minutes to hours), and it may not be the best stuff ever, but it works and works well... I've used my Glocks at matches shooting lots of rounds in 14 degrees of cold and 100 degrees of heat and never once had a problem. Don't drench your whole gun in it and it won't attract anymore debris than anything else out there would.



Now that said, while I haven't tried it yet, I think the folks who are using Mobil 1 are onto something... it seems to work pretty good in my Porsche.
 

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I use Slide Glide Lite on rails in temps above freezing. For all other lubrication, I have switched to Mobil 1. It's a superior product.

CLPs are great for pouring into an automatic weapon. But they are not the best for C, L or P.
So what type of "Mobil 1" is everyone using?

10W-30
0W-40
5W-40
5W-20
5W-30
0W-20

Or does it depend on the time of year type of gun or rate of fire?


:embarassed:








 

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Been using rem oil for 60 years in more guns then most people will ever buy, never had any of them break down. All this crap about car oil, bacon grease, crisco, or all the other stuff people use is a lot of bull. :whistling:
Roger that. You can put me on the list of folks that use Rem Oil in lots of different firearm platforms. It does well in Glock.

All of this other prattle is merely marketing hype. :soap:
 

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... How much money do YOU think Breakfree has invested in research, vs. Catrol, Valvoline, or Mobil? How much (do YOU think!) does each race team in NASCAR invest in their MOTOR oil each race?
Well, now that you asked, how much money did Breakfree invest in research vs. Catrol (did you mean Castrol?), Valvoline, or Mobil?

How much does each race team in NASCAR invest in their motor oil each race?

I have often thought about these questions and it appears you may have the answers. Please cite your sources
 

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I've had a beautifully blued S&W revolver rust while coated with RemOil. It is a product I no longer use.
 

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I've had a beautifully blued S&W revolver rust while coated with RemOil.
It's a shame that your revolver rusted.

Just curious, how did this happen? I have a few handguns that I fire every month, so they get cleaned and new lube put on, and they never rust. I use Breakfree CLP. Was the revolver outside in wet weather? Stored for months without being used? I think Rem Oil is like Breakfree CLP, OK for guns that get used, cleaned, and lubed every month or so.
 

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The fact that CLP's leave a lubing oil/residue behind it seems that you'd want to AVOID getting them into the chamber, trigger mech., etc. (basically anywhere on the receiver), Let alone spray these areas down while cleaning. Woudln't this actually promote grime/gunk biuld-up, and is the reason why Glock does NOT want lubricating products in these areas?
Right-o, Glock says they should be dry. Cleaning with break free, clp etc. does leave a residue, they are designed to do that. I just field strip mine and hose it down with brake cleaner ($3) then go wild with toothbrush, q-tips, and rags in that order. Sometimes i use compressed air (the compressor pisses off the neighbors) but brake cleaner leaves little or no residue and evaporates fast. A little shaking, and wiping, usually does it. If you want to be sure the cleaner is gone, leave the parts to sit for 10 minutes they should be bone dry.

For lubricant, I use grease! It stays where you put it, period. Automotive moly based grease is dirt cheap and otherwise a great lubricant. It is also ideal for guns that don't get used much since it helps keep rust away better then oil will - it wont evaporate.

My ruger P85 doesnt get used much since i got my Glock (i hope it isn't jealous lol) so i put grease inside the barrel with q-tips, also on other areas of bare metal. I clean the gun every 3 or 4 months, and after every time it gets fired, of course. No gun of mine is getting ruined by rust if i can help it. I clean the grease off an re-lube it right before i go to the range to shoot it. Everbody knows or should know that grease in the chamber plus bullet in the chamber about to be fired, is a big no-no.
 

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I guess the key to any oil is to use it properly.
I've used many oils. From WD-40, CLP, Hoppe's, RemOil, ect...

I feel RemOil is a bit too thin for contact moving parts (ex: Slide Rail)
I use CPL for the insides of my Glocks, an RemOil on the out side.

Make sure to apply only enough to leave a THIN coat, I used to
use a HEAVY coating on all part. But a week of 95+ degree weather in a truck caused the CLP to become tacky, and sticky to the point failure was sure to
occur.

Honestly I've had good luck with Burchwood-Casey Sheath for protectant.
It hold up good in high humidity, and doesn't come off very easy.
 

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It's a shame that your revolver rusted.

Just curious, how did this happen? I have a few handguns that I fire every month, so they get cleaned and new lube put on, and they never rust. I use Breakfree CLP. Was the revolver outside in wet weather? Stored for months without being used? I think Rem Oil is like Breakfree CLP, OK for guns that get used, cleaned, and lubed every month or so.
I applied a thin coating of RemOil to the Smith, placed it in brown Smith & Wesson wax paper then placed the waxpaper wrapped gun in a Les Baer cardboard box for storage. I did not look at it for about six months. When I did take it out to reapply preservative, the backstrap and butt were covered with raised circles of rust.

I'm sure that a factor was the fact that I was residing on Hilton Head Island at the time which is fundamentally a very humid subtropical island.
 

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Cardboard tends to draw moisture, and is not recommended for long-term storage of metal in humid conditions. I once worked for a metal-working company that required all cardboard that was to come into contact with metal parts, even for a short period of time, to first be saturated with oil. Long term storage of any ferrous metal component requires much more than a light coating of rust-preventative for sufficient protection.
 

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IMO, people get way too involved with gizmos in the gun world. Using PF 97 lube on one gun and "space shuttle bearing grease" for another gun. I've been using RemOil on all of my guns for 10 years. Never an issue. Bolt actions, Glocks, Sigs, Armalites, Rugers, etc... It works well for me.

When it comes to Glocks I think a lot of people forget that Glocks can run nearly dry for a long time.
 
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