RemOil With Telfon

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Tick_Tock_Glock, Feb 9, 2010.

  1. pakettle

    pakettle

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    Been using rem oil for 60 years in more guns then most people will ever buy, never had any of them break down. All this crap about car oil, bacon grease, crisco, or all the other stuff people use is a lot of bull. :whistling:
     
  2. cciman

    cciman MacGyver

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    That statement is a joke.

    No industry has more knowledge about metal to metal friction than the automotive industry. How much money do YOU think Breakfree has invested in research, vs. Catrol, Valvoline, or Mobil? How much (do YOU think!) does each race team in NASCAR invest in their MOTOR oil each race?

    Your gun is worth say $600. What do you think your crankshaft, engine bearings, piston, rods, valves, rockers, etc. are worth. You can run 10k miles on an oil change, even if you are a quart low. A race car will run 500 miles at over 150 mph in a single race at over 6500 engine RPM's, and that engine will last for at least one race. Your everyday car depends on your motor oil to LUBE in extreme temperatures from -40 to 300F.

    Think your Glock is ever going to see that amount of stress and heat? Do you think you are overpaying for that CLP, or that little syringe of Brand x lube with a macho name?


     

  3. unit1069

    unit1069

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    I'm going to start using the Wal-Mart full synthetic engine oil, Hi-Tech. Will 10W-30 be thick enough?
     
  4. m814

    m814

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    Based on my studies and testing, I have to agree with this. I used many different lubes on the market, ranging from TriFlow (mainly an all purpose lube that works very well on most things) to the Weapon Shield and I have some Machine Gunners Lube, along with Slip 2000. While the WS, MGL and Slip 2000 work as good and I have no complaints, the M1 and Dexron III combination work every bit as good and I have had no failures at all while using this lube. It stays where it needs to, and keeps lubing well after 900 rds in an AR BCG. The BF CLP needs to be reapplied often to keep doing it's job under the same circumstances.

    The comments about "Would you run gun oil in your car" crack me up because I have always considered "gun Oils" as inferior to car oils. So NO, I would not run gun oils in my car engine.
    BTW, the tranny fluid I use is there due to it's anti oxidation(which engine oil does not have) properties and high detergent capabilities it gives the oil, which despite what some may say, lubricates pretty darn good in my experience.
     
  5. novaDAK

    novaDAK

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    It says right on the can the following:

    Proven excellent for cleaning, lubricating, and corrosion-protecting fine firearms.

    It is a thin oil and does tend to evaporate faster than others.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  6. Range Rat

    Range Rat

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    I use Dapper Dan's Pomade on all of my guns.
     
  7. docj78

    docj78

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    I don't know if I'm missing something obvious about my own question, and that is why nobody ever answers it:crying: but, again-- What parts of the glock besides the barrel can you clean with remoil or any other CLP type product???

    The fact that CLP's leave a lubing oil/residue behind it seems that you'd want to AVOID getting them into the chamber, trigger mech., etc. (basically anywhere on the receiver), Let alone spray these areas down while cleaning. Woudln't this actually promote grime/gunk biuld-up, and is the reason why Glock does NOT want lubricating products in these areas?

    Maybe I'm WAAAY off here, but it seems to render CLP's as really only "LP's":dunno:
     
  8. ChristopherBurg

    ChristopherBurg

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    I used Remoil but switch to something else because Remoil just didn't hold up. It's an OK lubricant on small caliber guns in my book. I have no problem using it on my .22s for instance. But for my larger caliber guns I switched over to Gunzilla CLP. It doesn't evaporate and the stuff is friggin' slick to the touch.

    Of course for my larger caliber rifles I still use grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic Bearing Grease) on the moving parts.
     
  9. Range Rat

    Range Rat

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    You bring up a good point on residue and it attracting dirt build up. I do use RemOil spray at times to clean out the internals, but use compressed air to blow most of it out after application to minimize this.
     
  10. Joshhtn

    Joshhtn The eBay Guy

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    It is now very clear to me that you know little about either cars or firearms:rofl:
     
  11. Joshhtn

    Joshhtn The eBay Guy

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    I like Fop myself:supergrin:
     
  12. Joshhtn

    Joshhtn The eBay Guy

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    Yep!...:perfect10::goodpost::thumbsup:
     
  13. 3rdgen40

    3rdgen40 Stiffy

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    Really.:upeyes: How so ? :dunno:
    Yeah, just be sure to change it every 3,000 rounds.
     
  14. Joshhtn

    Joshhtn The eBay Guy

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    To answer your original question- "would you run gun oil in your cars' engine"

    No, I would not run gun oil in my car, that's the point.

    You're comparing the stress your weapon endures to the stress an engine has to endure?:rofl:

    I pick and choose my battles, and this one my friend is just ridiculous!:supergrin:

    Remember, everyone is entitled to their own opinion, it's just that yours doesn't matter.:supergrin:
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2010
  15. docj78

    docj78

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    My point exactly. This is why it seems to me that a fast evaporating SOLVENT seems to be the best choice for CLEANING the receiver/internals, and then any "LUBE" and/or "PROTECTOR" can be used in the minimal amounts that Glock specifies in the few areas.

    This way, most all gunk/grime and deposits are removed from the receiver, and it is left dry. Again, this seems to render ANY "CLP" as really only usefull for their "LP" functionality (at least for Glocks, anyway).

    At that point, the options for products for JUST lube/protect functionality of course are practically endless.

    I find myself actually leaning to NC brake cleaner to blast out the frame/receiver--followed by a good wipe down for aiding in cleaning and even faster drying, then may end up in the Mobil 1(or whatever) camp for lubing.

    In my minimal experience, but good deal of reading, I would argue that the lube/protect portion of Glocks is easy and minimal.

    The fact that you re-apply fresh lube/protectant after each cleaning anyway makes the lube choice seem for all intensive purposes, a moot point. In reality, how long does any one lube application stay on your gun before you clean and re-lube anyway?

    That makes the choice of a cleaning product more of the issue, and CLP's don't seem like the optimal choice for cleaning function.
     
  16. Range Rat

    Range Rat

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    For what it's worth, I use gun grease on my EDC so it stays in place. We've got a number of debates going in this one thread:
    1. BreakFree vs RemOil
    2. Mobil 1 vs gun oils
    3. Pomade vs Fop
    No need to get excited, gents. It's a free country. Use what makes you happy.
     
  17. mboylan

    mboylan

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    I use Slide Glide Lite on rails in temps above freezing. For all other lubrication, I have switched to Mobil 1. It's a superior product.

    CLPs are great for pouring into an automatic weapon. But they are not the best for C, L or P.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2010
  18. O'DubhGhaill

    O'DubhGhaill

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    This sums it up for me quite well. As a civilian shooter, I collect and use all kinds of firearm lubricants (GunButter, Weapon Shield, Break-free products, moly grease by several different names, etc.), but no matter which one I use, they are often still there and cleaned off right after a day at the range. (Loving BHPs for years, the most difficult challenge I've had in owning firearms is slowly bringing myself to incrementally decrease the amount of lubrication I use on my Glocks.)

    Were I on active duty and deployed somewhere salty or sandy, I'd probably use Tuf-Glide and be done with it. Cleaning products are definitely more of a concern for me - I like KG products and Break-free bore cleaning foam. I have used the RemOil spray for lubricating anything I just want to cover with a coat of really thin oil in a hard to reach place for additional peace of mind.
     
  19. VA_Glocker

    VA_Glocker

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    I use Remoil for cleaning my G19 and then Hoppes for lube.
     
  20. docj78

    docj78

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    I like the idea of using the Remoil WITH TEFLON for cleaning the barrel. I also like it for lubing the connector bar spot on the back of the reciever. Don't know how effective it is at imparting a slick "teflon type" coating/protection--but I like the idea.

    I got the notion by watching Hickok45's youtube video in which he uses Ballistol. I'd use Ballistol if were more easily available, and cheaper. As far as the slide goes--since you clean it off/re-apply lube at such regular and frequent intervals anyway, it doesn't seem to matter what lube you use here.

    Jury's still out on whether or not N.C. brake cleaner is "safe" for the polymer. I have only used it once (after about 250 rounds through new gun). I held the receiver upside down, gave a couple of blasts, and watched the dirty drippings fall away. I followed immediately with a rag and toothbrush. VERY clean and VERY dry.

    For as often as I expose the polymer to the stuff, I think the gun will be o.k. Again, it dries/wipes off so quickly and completely. it's not like the gun is immersed in the stuff for any length of time either.