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Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Bello, Oct 29, 2010.
i picked up this set for my 650 to see how uber accurate this set of dies is! (9MM)
I LOVE the Pro Series T/C set in 9mm that I use with my 550. So much so I bought the same dies for 45ACP, mine are pro series not competition pro series.
Freakshow recommended these dies to me when I started loading 10mm/40SW and I never had any issues with the famous 40 bulge, I think the sizing dies in these sets are some of the best in the business.
I was on the fence about buying the entire set. Pretty spendy... the seater is awesome!
Curious to know if the sizing die is any better, or the crimping die as easy to clean as the Dillon ones.
ill let you know mitchell! i got like 4 die sets for 9mm now lol
p.s. i also think that i will only be using redding dies in my 650. I keep hearing very good things about them; I guess thats why the blue press and enos have redding dies on the site and booklet
I have the Competition Seating die, and love it.
Next caliber I start loading (probably .45ACP), I'll go with their complete set.
redding sizing dies size smaller then other manufacturers in .40/10mm I don't know about 9mm though. It was for this reason I went with them.
Love the Comp. seater, you don't need much/any flair to seat the bullets.
IMHO the Redding Competition Seating Die is the best seating die on the market. I have tried Lee, Hornady and RCBS, and none come even close to the Redding for OAL control and straight bullet seating.
I don't see what could be so special about the sizer. A sizer either works or does not work (no matter who makes it). So whats the point of paying more the a Redding Sizer (assumeing the one you have works)? I know Freak likes them but what about it is better/nicer/improvement? All my Lee sizers work great in 9mm/10mm/.40.
Taper crimp dies for me never do anything but remove the flair. They don't crimp. You can remove the flair in a pistol round using the seating die (which is a Roll Crimp for crying out loud) in 9mm and most pistol diesets. So once again I don't understand the point of a expensive/special crimp die when all it does is remove the flare. Dillon has a much nicer crimp setup especially if you use lead bullets.
That Seating die is nice. I do wonder how it would work with oversized (for that caliber) lead bulelts.
All the talk about these things and besides the seating die I just don't understand what is so special about the sizer and the crimp?
i guess when i roll some out when they come i will let ya know
I bought my 550 used, and it came a set of Redding comp die in 45ACP. They work very well, the OAL is much tighter than my 40 and 9mm, for which I use Dillon die. I have a question about the Redding, how are you supposed to tighten them down on the tool head? I make the small screw on the dial (the black ring shaped dial that controls the coarse height) as tight as I can, but I can still turn the the knob (not the adjustment, lol) very easily, and they come loose. I can tighten the Dillon die with a 1" wrench, once the height is right, I don't think about it. But with the Redding, I periodically check to see if any of the die is loose. Haven't found them loose yet, but I am a little paranoid. Any thoughts?
Tighten it down with moderate finger strength with the stations loaded to the ZERO Height. Then tighten the set screw.
gah the set screw? hell no that will destroy threads or at least thats what i hope your not talking about?!? id rather buy a hornady one and toss it on the die or put the 1" dillons on it
Redding competition seating die is the best. The rest of the Redding dies are no better or worse than RCBS, Hornady, Lee, CH, Bonanza or Dillon. That of course is my opinion.
The brass Redding lock collar set screw won't hurt the steel die body thread, especially if you use moderate torque as you should to correctly lock it down... I debated using an extra Dillon lock ring but opted to save it for another conversion later down the road.
"For Me" the Redding dies run smoother in my 550, and they're a hell of a lot easier to adjust.
Just my opinion anyways.
So the sizer is smoother?
Just looking for some clarity with this stuff. I can't see how the sizer or the crimp is easier to adjust. Sizer just get tightened till it touchs the shellplate basicaly, crimp is adjusted the same as most other crimp die.
Seater is a huge improvement. Thats a given.
Smoother as in? The T/C is smoother? Running smother could actually be a case of not sizing as well as others... know what I mean?
I looked at a set today in at one of our local shops. I agree the crimp die may be initially easier to adjust, but your gonna need to as is has no quick provision for cleaning as the Dillon crimp dies do... pull the pin, run a solvent moistened rag through the die body, wipe the inner with the same, I then wipe it down with a little CLP moistened patch, reinstall and your good to go... no readjustment for crimp necessary as it was never disturbed.
I'm debating getting a set of the pro-series T/C dies in .380 ACP and selling off my SDB set... just load it on the XL650 1000 rounds at a time, be done with it 1 hour every 6 months...
My Lee are pretty smooth. But I lube my brass anyway so it sure better be smooth.
It's only a tiny 9mm/10mm case. They are not hard to size anyway.
Someone in another thread said the Redding are the only 9mm sizer with a full length carbide sizer that is also taperd. Lee is tapered. I have no idea if the Lee is a full length sizer. It works so that is all the matters to me. In the same thread the guy was complaining about the Dillongnot sizing 9mm right. I have read that some 9mm sizers are not taperd. That would be a issue to me and I would not use that die. Lee makes a pretty good sizer in my book. I really like the Dillon Crimp die because it's so easy to clean. I never noticed a difference between the Dillon and the Lee crimp dies besides that.
How is the Redding easier to adjust then the other crimp dies?
i have a set of lee 9mm dies and i don't believe that lee full length sizes maybe like 2/3 to 3/4's