I prefer vibratite as well. Make sure you mark your screws so you can immediately see if they start backing out.
Red dot issues.
So I've got a RMR type 2 on a Glock 19 MOS and a PSA Dagger with a Holosun. Both have been mounted per instructions, degreased all metal, applied blue Locktite and torqued to respective values.
Both have shot loose around the 200 round mark.
Picked up the Forward Control Design steel MOS plate for the 19 and it shipped with Vibratite3. Assembled per instructions, degreased all metal, applied VC3 and allowed to dry for 30 minutes, applied to torque settings provide by FCD.
Cleaned and degreased all the metal on the Dagger applied blue Locktite (prior to receiving the FCD kit) and torqued to Dagger values.
250 rounds on the Glock today and I've got a precise zero and nothing has come loose. The Dagger came loose within 30 rounds but I did get it zero'd. Today I try Vibratite3 for the Dagger. I'm out of ideas.
Any thoughts?
Both have shot loose around the 200 round mark.
Picked up the Forward Control Design steel MOS plate for the 19 and it shipped with Vibratite3. Assembled per instructions, degreased all metal, applied VC3 and allowed to dry for 30 minutes, applied to torque settings provide by FCD.
Cleaned and degreased all the metal on the Dagger applied blue Locktite (prior to receiving the FCD kit) and torqued to Dagger values.
250 rounds on the Glock today and I've got a precise zero and nothing has come loose. The Dagger came loose within 30 rounds but I did get it zero'd. Today I try Vibratite3 for the Dagger. I'm out of ideas.
Any thoughts?
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
I prefer vibratite as well. Make sure you mark your screws so you can immediately see if they start backing out.
Yep, used florescent orange model paint.
Make sure you super clean the male and female threads.Then use Blue Loctite.
Make sure you super clean the male and female threads.Then use Blue Loctite.
Yeah, tried that twice already.
Dare I say "the dreaded Red Loctite !!! ". Maybe a different brand of screws ?
So I did add a longer screw on the non-plunger side that came with the FDC kit. I wouldn't be opposed to red LT on the plate to Glock but I'd be hesitant to use it on the RMR to plate as the battery access requires removal. OTH if the Holosun comes loose again I don't mind WELDING that SOB to the pistol because battery access isn't an issue.Dare I say "the dreaded Red Loctite !!! ". Maybe a different brand of screws ?
Take note Trijicon.
If available in a very small size- what about "shake-proof" washers ?
Normally dot screws are too long and bottom out then come loose , regardless of which thread locker you use. Need to check thread depth first.
In addition to verifying thread depth, my experience is that blue loctite is not appropriate for attaching things to pistol slides. I use 262 for everything I want to stay on.
No, with the 19.
Did that. Certainly not an issue with .5mm screws that came with the Dagger.Normally dot screws are too long and bottom out then come loose , regardless of which thread locker you use. Need to check thread depth first.
Assuming the hardware is correct, Permatex makes an Orange threadlocker. It’s stronger than blue but not as aggressive as red.
Amazon.com: Permatex 25210 High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange Liquid, 10 ml : Industrial & Scientific
Buy Permatex 25210 High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange Liquid, 10 ml: Industrial & Scientific - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Huh, I used all his stuff and mine has been 100% so far. I’m stumped.No, with the 19.
The plate and screws worked with the 19 just fine.Huh, I used all his stuff and mine has been 100% so far. I’m stumped.
I'm using one of the spare FCD long screws on the Dagger because nothing else has worked so far.
Ive had an RMR or some version of Holosun mounted to a G19, G19X, VP9 and 365. I use Blue Loctite you can buy at any auto shop/hardware store and not had anything work loose over thousands of rounds. I would think Red would be too much for something like the RMR that needs to be dismounted for every battery change. Would be OK for stuff that doesn't require removal for battery swaps.
I'd check your screw length and make sure that you aren't just snugging up the optic with the screw bottoming out instead of securing the optic.
You mentioned that you degreased all metal. How did you do this? I let my screws sit in alcohol or better yet acetone for a time. Do the same thing for plates to make sure the screw holes the soked. For slides I blast the holes with carb cleaner (watch eyes) and thread a small Qtip in there to clean out the threads if possible.
I'd check your screw length and make sure that you aren't just snugging up the optic with the screw bottoming out instead of securing the optic.
You mentioned that you degreased all metal. How did you do this? I let my screws sit in alcohol or better yet acetone for a time. Do the same thing for plates to make sure the screw holes the soked. For slides I blast the holes with carb cleaner (watch eyes) and thread a small Qtip in there to clean out the threads if possible.
Ive had an RMR or some version of Holosun mounted to a G19, G19X, VP9 and 365. I use Blue Loctite you can buy at any auto shop/hardware store and not had anything work loose over thousands of rounds. I would think Red would be too much for something like the RMR that needs to be dismounted for every battery change. Would be OK for stuff that doesn't require removal for battery swaps.
I'd check your screw length and make sure that you aren't just snugging up the optic with the screw bottoming out instead of securing the optic.
You mentioned that you degreased all metal. How did you do this? I let my screws sit in alcohol or better yet acetone for a time. Do the same thing for plates to make sure the screw holes the soked. For slides I blast the holes with carb cleaner (watch eyes) and thread a small Qtip in there to clean out the threads if possible.
I used acetone to soak all the parts and q-tips for all the threads. The screws are provided by the manufacturer of the FDC plate specifically for the MOS and the screws for the Dagger came with the Dagger for mounting an optic with an RMR footprint. There is nothing bottoming out.
That sucks. It almost sounds like something is out of spec then. Have you tried buying some higher grade screws from the likes of McMaster Carr just to eliminate the possibility of Chinesium grade screws?I used acetone to soak all the parts and q-tips for all the threads. The screws are provided by the manufacturer of the FDC plate specifically for the MOS and the screws for the Dagger came with the Dagger for mounting an optic with an RMR footprint. There is nothing bottoming out.
That sucks. It almost sounds like something is out of spec then. Have you tried buying some higher grade screws from the likes of McMaster Carr just to eliminate the possibility of Chinesium grade screws?
That's certainly a solid suggestion. I have high hopes that the FDC plate and hardware fixed the Glock issues. If the VB3 doesn't take the with Dagger I'll do just that.
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Glock Talk
A forum community dedicated to Glock firearm owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, troubleshooting, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Alex Smith
1815 Replies
Dragoon44
806 Replies
NoJoy
706 Replies
Recommended Communities
