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Question about Recoil spring and firing pin spring

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by brianr34, Dec 28, 2010.

  1. brianr34


    Nov 17, 2009
    Likes Received:
    I have quite a few questions regarding the recoil spring and firing pin spring.

    I have a G17 RTF2 that I use for IDPA and the range.

    I have done the following mods:
    Glock 3.5 connector, 25 cent trigger job, extended controls, 6lb trigger spring, reduced power safety plunger spring.

    I installed the Lonewolf firing pin reduced power spring and had some issues. The trigger did not function properly. I could activate the trigger without depressing the trigger safety. Also, the trigger returned with a slow, vague feeling. What causes this?

    If I change the firing pin spring to a reduced version, do I need to reduce the recoil spring from the stock 17lb?

    I have a 13lb and 15lb IMSI recoil springs on order. I was going to try these springs on the stock Glock recoil rod. I understand you can pop off the end and change out the springs. Is that correct?

    I primarily use Blazer Brass & Aluminum 115gr ammo. Will I have an issue with light primer strikes if I change to a reduced power firing pin spring?

    If I keep the firing pin spring the same, but only change to a 13lb or 15lb recoil spring, is this OK? Would I expect to have any malfunction issues? What is the benefit of changing to a reduced recoil spring? I assume it is suppose to shoot flatter with less recoil.

  2. JR

    JR Moderator Millennium Member

    Dec 29, 1998
    Likes Received:
    Oldtown Idaho USA
    When you change any part, regardless of manufacture, you must prove it works reliably. There are a number of parts that are known to fail when installed in a certain combination. Trigger jobs and light springs are notorious for failure (in some guns). Install the same parts in another gun and they work just fine? (GO FIGURE). When they work, they are amazing, when they fail.... you should not be surprised! Change any single part and start over (again).

    You can activate the trigger by simply depressing the trigger safety. Once the trigger safety is depressed the trigger will move reward. If your trigger safety is not engaging the frame it is faulty.

    The recoil spring should bring the barrel back into battery by itself. If it does not, change it out. If you go lighter on the spring you need to prove it is reliable and returns to battery. The trigger spring will boost the slide into battery however you do not want to rely on it.

    You can remove the tip of a factory guide rod. Problem is, they will get weaker every time you do it. They WILL eventually break. When it finally does fail you will wish you had a stainless guide rod on hand. Sometimes trying to save a buck costs you hundreds in pain & anguish.

    Do not be afraid to change any parts. Play with all the combinations you can possibly conceive. BTW: This is how I got to know what works best MOST of the time. Seriously, what could happen? Gun don’t go bang? Change out another part and start over again.

    Shoot more, have fun, learn what works & what don’t. Pretty soon you will be hosting this GATE section and I will be out fishing.