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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is going to be a stupid question but it is really bothering the crap out of me.

When you take your car in to have the tires rotated and balanced.

Is it ok for the tech to take your tire with the existing wheel weights and put it on the machine and test it and say it tests balanced without making any changes?

OR

Should the tech remove your existing wheel weights, put the wheel on the machine and balance and reapply weights were needed.

I know in my brain the results are the same but dang it I want my wheel weights removed and the tire RE balanced.

For you mechanic guys is there a procedure on this?

From now on I am going to remove the wheel weights myself before taking it to the tire shop.


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Enslaved in IL
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If a customer complains of a vibration it is important to spin them with the weights on them. Otherwise you will never know if one was out of balance or not.

I always spun them before pulling the weights, why would I do the extra work of rebalancing a balanced assembly?
 

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Number two is how I always did it. Taking the weights off yourself if in doubt is a good idea, though I cant image anyone not removing them to begin with.
 

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Grumpy Old Guy
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I have always seen them check the balance with the old weights on first then remove them/add others/more if needed. :supergrin:
 

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Gun User
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If the customer is comes in with a shake I test each assembly to try to see if balance was the cause. If they just request a balance and rotate I remove the weights first, leaving them on means if they are out of balance I have to spin them twice taking up more of my time, and time is money.
 

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Señor Member
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If you have a problem that seems like a balance issue and they don't test to make sure the tires are balanced as-is, you'd be having extra work done while obscuring the problem.

If it's balanced already... it's probably balanced. If the first guy didn't do a decent job, it would show up when they tested it with the crummy balancing job still done. Look elsewhere for the root issue.
 

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I don't know about using the old weights. For me, I always request new weights. I run 285/75/16's so I always get a road forced balance every 4-5K
 

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I don't know about using the old weights. For me, I always request new weights. I run 285/75/16's so I always get a road forced balance every 4-5K
Wouldn't an old weight weigh the same as a new one of the same weight? HH
 

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If you have a vibration or suspect the tires weren't balanced properly before, you won't know without spinning them as they already are. Besides that, it's just a chunk of coated lead. Unless it's pulled off and pounded back on, loosening the clip, there's nothing wrong with it and fretting about such is nothing but anal worrying. Removing your old weight, spinning the tire, and reusing the old weight is something more worthy of fussing over. Having the wheel spun with the old weights on and having it come up with 0.00 on all screens isn't "calling" it balanced. It is balanced.

The vast majority of steel wheels take the same weight. Aluminum wheels have many different types of clips and profile shapes to fit the different types of wheels. Improper selection can cause air leaks at the tire bead or the weight to fall off. I've seen and had to deal with running out of the proper type of weight for certain wheels as well as particular weights. If the wheel already has the right type of weight, and it's balanced, there is no downside to leaving it as it is. There is the potential for causing a leak anytime you pound a new weight on. Additionally, if a shop has run out of 1.25 oz weights and removes your old one in order to put on a 1.5 oz with a bit cut off or a .75 and .5, it looks worse.
 

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Well if you want to roll half assed, then take your ride to a cheap ass tire shop. My shop does their work properly.
My question still stands. Does an old weight weigh more or less than a new one of the same weight? HH
 

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If the tire is balanced with the old weights you leave them on, more chances of screwing things up if they take them off. Also if the weights haven't fell off by the time you get them rechecked they most likely aren't coming off.


If you want new weights that's a whole different story, I run 305/70/16's once they are balanced I don't want anyone touching my weights. I also have stick on weights which can be harder to balance with no weights on the outer face of the rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
"I run 285/75/16's so I always get a road forced balance every 4-5K"

"I run 305/70/16's once they are balanced I don't want anyone touching my weights."


I am curious two of you have mentioned the size of your tires in reference to your personal balancing preferences. What is the correlation? Don't all tires balance the same no matter the size?


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"I run 285/75/16's so I always get a road forced balance every 4-5K"

"I run 305/70/16's once they are balanced I don't want anyone touching my weights."


I am curious two of you have mentioned the size of your tires in reference to your personal balancing preferences. What is the correlation? Don't all tires balance the same no matter the size?


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Not necessarily. Very wide tires with narrow profiles may have the heavy/light spots not on the rotational axis but on opposing edges (i.e.: outside at 12 o'clock and inside at 6). Once initally balanced properly however, rebalancing and screwing with the weights is a complete waste of time unless one is thrown. HH
 

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ʇno uıƃuɐɥ ʇsnɾ
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When you take your car in to have the tires rotated and balanced.
You say "rotated and balanced." You're not changing the tire, so there's no reason whatsoever to change the weights. They're just checking to make sure one didn't fall off somewhere along the line. Ripping the old weights off just beats up your wheels for no reason.

I don't know about using the old weights. For me, I always request new weights. I run 285/75/16's so I always get a road forced balance every 4-5K
:upeyes: Your shop must love you. You probably have one of those little fan thingys on youe intake too.

Do it the right way.

Take the valve core out, let the air out,
add dyna beads,
add new valve core, refill with air.

Never worry about balancing again.
Dynabeads are retarded for a car. They work well for huge off road tires but definitely not for your DD or anything performance.

Well if you want to roll half assed, then take your ride to a cheap ass tire shop. My shop does their work properly.
No, see above. Your shop loves to take your money.

I am curious two of you have mentioned the size of your tires in reference to your personal balancing preferences. What is the correlation? Don't all tires balance the same no matter the size?
All tires balance the same. But big truck mudders will wear themselves out of balance. Something a car tire won't do.
 

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I'm not too sure if I trust these new-fangled "spin-balance" gizmos.:whistling:

Back when I pumped gas and changed tires we used the good old fashioned bubble balancer. No software, electronics or display needed.

Have tires changed that much since the mid-70's where they need a computer to do what a 16 year old kid could accomplish in a minute?:supergrin:


Is the extra precision of the spin balance machine (properly programmed, calibrated and operated) worth it in real life??
 

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ʇno uıƃuɐɥ ʇsnɾ
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Is the extra precision of the spin balance machine (properly programmed, calibrated and operated) worth it in real life??
A bubble balancer only does static. Computerized does dynamic too. At 145mph I want my tires as perfect as they can get. :cool:
 
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