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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Altamont used to make some pretty good copies of original S&W grips but now a lot of their service grips are no longer exact copies. The closest they come to original square butt "Magna" grips is what the call the "Service Panel Super Walnut grip" at the bottom of the K and L frame page and they sell for 60 bucks which would be worth it if they were exact copies of the originals, but they still look a helluva lot better than F'ing Rubber grips.

The the thing I notice, looking at the Atamont website is that more than half their inventory is temporarily unavailable and they warn that lead times on orders might take a while to flll. Oh well. there's always Ebay.
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I figure I'm only going to use it for targets, not for carry, so I ordered some smooth grips similar to S&W target grips, made by Custom Wood in Connecticut.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yeah, Brownells seems to be out of lots of stuff at present. I need a box of their front sight insert acrylic stuff, but no dice. Enjoy your Model 10.
I ended up ordering from Gun Parts Corp./Numrich. For older guns, they can be a better source than Brownell's. I have occasionally ordered parts from them since the late '80s.
 

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I figure I'm only going to use it for targets, not for carry, so I ordered some smooth grips similar to S&W target grips, made by Custom Wood in Connecticut.

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Those are nice.. I like the S&W target grips better than the skinny "magna" service grips for handling recoil on a gun like the model 58 41 magnum. A few years ago I bought a 6 inch S&W Model 28 Highway patrolman. as is,no box or papers, with Hogue rubber grips. As fate would have it, I found a par of N-frame Target grips at a local gun shop a week later for only 25 bucks, and a week after that, I found an original Smith and Wesson holster in perfect condition (yes, S&W used to make holsters) for a 6 inch N Frame for another 25 bucks!. That gun was meant to be.

The Model 28 originally came with either the magna grips or the target grips but the small magna grips never ooked rigth on the big N-frames especially with the 6 inch barrel.
 

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That looks like a nice project gun. Post pics when it's done. tom. (y)
 

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Florist
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You got me when I saw a K frame with the bull barrel!
 
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Here's the only mint condition, never been fired, revolver I own. A 10-6 with bull barrel my father bought 55 years ago, loaded it up and put it in a dresser draw where it stayed until he passed away. Doesn't have any collector value, but it is certainly pretty in it's own way.

Revolver Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
That looks like a nice project gun. Post pics when it's done. tom. (y)
I will, but I'm not going to do anything to restore the looks - just the shooting. Last time I looked, the USPS said my parts were held up: "Your shipment has potentially been delayed due to emergency or other conditions."
 
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Wolverine
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Nice revolver and a very nice price during this time. I picked up a 10 no dash for a project but I like the patina that it wears and left it alone. The wood grips were beat up pretty bad so a LGS had several sets of J. Scott grips, some with and some without the original box. Found a set of pearl grips for $15 otd and carry it for a woods gun.
“Son, only a pimp in a Louisiana whore- house carries pearl-handled revolvers. “
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Stopped by Bud's today and bought this S&W Model 10-6, reimported from Australia, for $175. The guy behind the counter said they get crates of them from Australia every couple of years, apparently from police departments there.

Looks like all that's wrong with it is it needs grips, which I've got plenty of, and it is missing the parts of the extractor assembly that can unscrew and fall out. I need an extractor rod ($10), Center Pin ($12-15), Center Pin Spring ($3), Extractor Spring ($3), Extractor Rod Collar ($5) and Gas ring ($9). Other than that, it looks like a good revolver, as far as I can tell without those parts installed. I'll have a little over $200 in it when I'm done, but I couldn't resist the project.

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Kind of off topic, but you seem pretty knowledgeable on S&W revolvers

I have a 686-5 bought new in 2000, it was sent back to S&W for an action job and a couple other things. Also once to have a new firing pin installed.

I’ve used it for local leagues, small game, deer and bear hunting. It’s never been submerged but it has traveled with me hundreds of miles in the backcountry- mountains, forests and swamps.

Other than take off the cylinder and remove the grips for cleaning I have never removed the side plate or disassembled in any way. Is this something you recommend doing or having done occasionally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Kind of off topic, but you seem pretty knowledgeable on S&W revolvers

I have a 686-5 bought new in 2000, it was sent back to S&W for an action job and a couple other things. Also once to have a new firing pin installed.

I’ve used it for local leagues, small game, deer and bear hunting. It’s never been submerged but it has traveled with me hundreds of miles in the backcountry- mountains, forests and swamps.

Other than take off the cylinder and remove the grips for cleaning I have never removed the side plate or disassembled in any way. Is this something you recommend doing or having done occasionally?
I do remove the side plates on any used gun I get, mainly to see if there is any rust inside, but I'm probably wasting my time. I have had multiple guns that are over 100 years old and I've never found any significant rust inside. Not really anything to worry about.

This gun was made between 1962 and 1977, just based on the model number, and it was spotless inside.
 

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I do remove the side plates on any used gun I get, mainly to see if there is any rust inside, but I'm probably wasting my time. I have had multiple guns that are over 100 years old and I've never found any significant rust inside. Not really anything to worry about.

This gun was made between 1962 and 1977, just based on the model number, and it was spotless inside.
Thanks Bren.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks Bren.
Here are pictures. Since I am waiting for parts anyhow, I cleaned surface rust off the outside and took out all of the internal parts and inspected, cleaned and reassembled everything. No rust at all inside - a little dirt, but nothing to worry about.

Black Air gun Revolver Trigger Gun barrel
Eyewear Personal protective equipment Metal Auto part Fashion accessory


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Here's the only mint condition, never been fired, revolver I own. A 10-6 with bull barrel my father bought 55 years ago, loaded it up and put it in a dresser draw where it stayed until he passed away. Doesn't have any collector value, but it is certainly pretty in it's own way.

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Here's the only mint condition, never been fired, revolver I own. A 10-6 with bull barrel my father bought 55 years ago, loaded it up and put it in a dresser draw where it stayed until he passed away. Doesn't have any collector value, but it is certainly pretty in it's own way.

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View attachment 982864
That is a beauty !!
 

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Here are pictures. Since I am waiting for parts anyhow, I cleaned surface rust off the outside and took out all of the internal parts and inspected, cleaned and reassembled everything. No rust at all inside - a little dirt, but nothing to worry about.

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That's great, I would have expected some rust on a blued gun, I have mostly used stainless revolvers for my Backcountry guns. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Here's the only mint condition, never been fired, revolver I own. A 10-6 with bull barrel my father bought 55 years ago, loaded it up and put it in a dresser draw where it stayed until he passed away. Doesn't have any collector value, but it is certainly pretty in it's own way.

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My gun is more like the evil twin - the Mr. Hyde to your Dr. Jekyll. But I like all the wear and property numbers and such - they give it a history and character.

I just saw that the USPS has my parts moving again, so I should be able to assemble it in a couple of days.
 

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Very cool. Tag for pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Got in the parts today, except for the grips, so I went ahead and assembled it with some old Pachmayrs. The only snag was that I got a more modern center pin spring and had to cut it down a few coils at a time until it would fit. Once I got it together, it has no cylinder end shake at all and even with pressure on the cylinder no crack/gap is visible between the frame and yoke. The action is smooth and the trigger feels great. I'd put the fit and function of this up against any of the ones you are getting with all of the parts for $300 or more these days. I'd say it's going to be a great shooter. In toal I have $185.50 in the gun (including tax), center pin - $11.34, extractor rod $13.39 and center pin spring $2.65. The grips currently on it came from my parts box and we take-offs from another revolver I bought used, so I have invested $212.88 and whatever the tax and shipping was on the small parts. Well worth it.

Revolver Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Wood
Revolver Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Wood

Revolver Air gun Trigger Wood Shotgun
 

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Semper Paratus
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Here's the only mint condition, never been fired, revolver I own. A 10-6 with bull barrel my father bought 55 years ago, loaded it up and put it in a dresser draw where it stayed until he passed away. Doesn't have any collector value, but it is certainly pretty in it's own way.

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Those pristine no lock Smiths go for a premium especially with stock grips big plus for the box and tools adds about 100 plus to the price


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