Glock Forum - GlockTalk banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted the upgrade the trigger of my G22. It has at the moment the factory trigger setup.
Since i had very pleasing results with the trigger upgrades on y G40 Gen 4 is decided to use the same components.
Wolf Spring Kit and ZEV 3.5 connector.
I started with the connector. .40 SW upper no problems. Lighter trigger pull as expected.
Then i put 9mm upper on and suprise suprise the gun turned full auto:50cal:
5 rounds in the mag , mag empty in the blink of an eye. You could say i was mildly supprised.
Ok i thought maybe just a glitch. Changed mag, loaded 5 rounds same result.
Changed upper to .40SW no problems.
Changed back to 9mm -> full auto.
Ok i though maybe it was the combination factory springs and ZEV Connector. So i installed the wolf spring kit. Still same result.
Swaped ZEV Connector against a Wolf and a Ghost. Still the same. Full Auto on 9mm , no Problems with .40.
With factory setup everything is fine.
I never an accidental discharge nor a single auto fire incident with factory setup.

Because of our gun laws i cannot simply buy another frame because i'd have to go the same way as for buying a new gun.

Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,651 Posts
Get a Glock Armorer’s Slide backplate - Glock makes them and Ghost makes one. They are 1/2 size so you can view the amount of contact between the firing pin lug and trigger bar.

If the contact is good, the connector is not being fully disengaged by the 9mm slide, preventing the trigger bar from fully raising up. Try another connector, perhaps a Glock minus connector.

If the contact is minimal with both slides (even if the 9mm is a tad less) change the trigger bar first. If that doesn’t work you may still have to replace the firing pin on the 9mm.

Did you change the trigger spring with the Wolff kit? If not, I’d be sure I had a fresh trigger spring as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TxDoubleAgent

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
@dave1: Polished with a polishing compound used to clean silver spoons and such. So a very mild compound. Have done this with various Glocks of friends and my own.

-will get the backplate.

Good idea changing out trigger bar. Had not thought about that. In the gun shop where i help out we have several factory glock triggers as spare that i can try.
Some times i simply overlook the simpliest solutions :blondmoment:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,243 Posts
@dave1: Polished with a polishing compound used to clean silver spoons and such. So a very mild compound. Have done this with various Glocks of friends and my own.

-will get the backplate.

Good idea changing out trigger bar. Had not thought about that. In the gun shop where i help out we have several factory glock triggers as spare that i can try.
Some times i simply overlook the simpliest solutions :blondmoment:
It sounded like you knew what you were doing, but on line you just have to ask since we can't look at the pistol.

Let us know how it works out.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,651 Posts
Check the angle/clearance of the connector in relation to the trigger housing. You should be able to just barely slide a piece of paper between the two.
Pretty sure you're thinking about another part of the trigger (I do that all the time) probably the space between the trigger bar and gun frame? There should be significantly more space than a single sheet of paper between the connector and trigger housing. The connector has to be able to move a distance greater than the width of it's top ledge to release the trigger bar during the gun's cycle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Pretty sure you're thinking about another part of the trigger (I do that all the time) probably the space between the trigger bar and gun frame? There should be significantly more space than a single sheet of paper between the connector and trigger housing. The connector has to be able to move a distance greater than the width of it's top ledge to release the trigger bar during the gun's cycle.
No. I’m talking about the connector and trigger housing. You should barely be able to slide a piece of paper between the two.
I learned this the hard way years ago when i first started changing connectors. If you push the connector as far as it will go the trigger won’t reset and will also let the firing pin forward before a reset.
Another thing that will cause full auto is if the firing pin safety plunger’s spring is bound up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,651 Posts
OK, then I'll just state that's 100% incorrect. It would mean you have to remove every connector that comes in a Glock and bend it to remove the intended angle on the connector to make it fit that close along with bending every aftermarket connector made.

The connector is a leaf spring that leans out away from the trigger housing and applies positive pressure against the trigger bar. If the pressure was not present, there would be a risk that the trigger bar would slip off the top edge of the connector and fail to fire.

After the gun fires, the wedge on the bottom of the slide contracts the connector's extension during the cycle and "compresses" the spring (pushes it over). This causes the connector and trigger bar to disconnect and the trigger spring is able to pull the trigger bar upwards to re-engage the firing pin lug as the slide moves back forwards. So it MUST be able to move further than the width of the connector's ledge that's engaged with the trigger bar.

Once the slide's wedge has cleared the connector, it's outward spring pressure is against the trigger bar. At this point the ledge of the connector is against the side of the bar. As the bar moves forward it slips under the ledge - the snap of the spring pressure moving the ledge outwards over the top of the bar is referred to as the felt reset of the trigger.

If you only have the thickness of a single sheet of paper between the connector and the trigger housing mechanism, none of this happens correctly.

So ultimately, I hope we're still not talking about the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Leg
The factory connector comes at a 7 degree stand off angle with the trigger housing. That’s why you don’t have to bend them.
When you buy an aftermarket connector most brands include this in the installation instructions. The way to test is when at a 7 degree stand off angle you should barely be able to slide a business card between the connector and trigger housing. Too close and too far away cause issues.
Some aftermarket connectors come with a 90 degree angle. You have to bend them outward a little. This may not be the OP’s issue but I wanted to rule it out.


I would also check the firing pin safety plunger spring. If it’s not bound I would swap the lighter wolf spring out for the factory one and see if there is still an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,171 Posts
My g19 was running perfect until I decided to install a LWD (-) connector to lighten up the trigger that’s when all kind of issues starting to appear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
News Update:
Put my 9mm Upper on the frame of a friends Glock. I have also polished her Glock's internal parts too and installed ZEV Connector.
No Problems here. My upper runs fine on her frame with ZEV connector.
Guess i am really having an issue with my trigger bar.
I will either replace my trigger bar or will use the upper on the frame on my new to come G35 if need be.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top