Press ram lubrication

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by norton, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. Boxerglocker

    Boxerglocker Jacks #1 Fan

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    I never disputed your claim Steve... 30w motor oil contains more suspended particles thus is thicker, thus clings better to itself, as it drys and evaporates... it does evaporate, what goes first is the actually lubricating media which are the hydrocarbons, the rest is just there to hold it in place. What you eventually left with is dirt attracted to the oil as I stated before. For a ram on a loader we are talking minimum lateral loads with a gap measurement between of 0.005-0.010 inch.
    As I said, better to have a fresh thin layer or lubricant than a visable thick one that is no longer holding it's lubricating properties, but only adding undue wear to the machine by holding dirt particles that act against the machine.
    The best practice is not to neglect that routine maintenance is part of upkeep. I don't rely on a visual cue of when to lubricate anything whether my car, motorcycle, or the ram on the loader and everthing else. Flush, change, whatever... then reapply on a regular basis. Clean oil of even the wrong type, will keep better maintenance than dirty or none at all.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2010
  2. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

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    Like you say, the ram is under so little load that it takes very little of anything decent to lubricate properly.

    Here what is important on a 550. You need something that clings. The thin Rem Oil will migrate down into the priming setup and cause you priming issues because it slows down the primer slide once you have any oil+dirt on it. So it's imperative for it to stay dry. I used to use Rem Oil. It's handy, in a little tube, easy to apply. But I was having to constantly wipe down the primer slide area on the 550. I have had a little can of 30w that is oily and messy. You press the lever and shoots out oil from the flexable tube. It's a mess so I didn't like to grab it. I just used Rem Oil. I only used the 30w when I did a major cleaning on the press. Then I noticed that after using the 30w I could go a lot (I mean a lot) longer with out touching the priming assembly for cleaning. Now I only use 30w and I seldom clean the priming assembly.

    I wipe the ram dry, lube the press with 30w moving the oil around with my finger to get it over the entire ram, cycle the handle, clean around the priming area to keep it dry, put my trash can under it to catch any drips. Let it sit overnight. Wipe up the pool of oil around the ram/press intersection and the bottom link. Done. Ram is lubed but not going to leak around enough to cause any problems. So I can load 1k's of rounds with out priming issues. I wonder if other people are using a thin oil and causing themselves headaches? It wouldn't make a spec of difference on the LCT or maybe other presses as the oil running around the ram does not foul anything up. But on a 550 it matters.
     

  3. Boxerglocker

    Boxerglocker Jacks #1 Fan

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    As normal we are in agreement Steve. I just prefer a different Lube. Actually specifically for the reasons of contaminanting everything else such as the primer feeder on the 650is my preference for LPS1. It is actually considered to be a dry film and won't attack the plastic index parts under the shellplate platform. The coating will not attract dust and/or powder grains won't stick to it. It cleans and lubricates at the same time.... with my schedule to load it's usually 24-48 hours in between now. Part of the normal routine is when setting up for a session is grab the can of LPS1 quick squirt on the ram raised up and down once or twice, wipe clean and then another wipe with the cloth moistened with another light spray. Takes all but 30 seconds to a minute maybe...
    I've been using this stuff a long time on my bikes, cars... it's good stuff. If I didn't use it LPS1, I would think TriFlow would be my next choice as it's readily available or breakfree.
     
  4. MrOldLude

    MrOldLude

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    Motor oil is kept in my garage. Rem Oil is kept in my gun-room/office/computer room and my bathroom (for lubricating my beard trimmer). Rem Oil is closer, so I use it on the ram of my single-stage.
     
  5. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

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    I can think of a bunch of lubes that would be better then 30w. Never used the stuff you like. But tri-flow, a bunch of the dry bike lubes I have used on cables and chains, that type of thing. In the end as long as it doesn't run into my 550 priming setup it would be fine. My point is that 30w works fine (and better then the thin Rem Lube on my 550). So I see no real point in doing anything different on my 550. On a single stage or LCT I think you could use anything and be fine.