Polymer80 holes out of spec?

Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by dead_beat, Oct 8, 2018.

  1. dead_beat

    dead_beat

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    I ordered a pf940c from glockstore and the M4 hole on the jigg was out of spec, got an rma from Polymer80 today and after checking yet again, the m4 hole is out of spec.

    The problem is that the M4 holes will not line up with the locking block and when trying to insert the pin, it taps against the locking block. I took my time to drill them and every other hole fits perfectly except this. I don't think I will get another rma so at this point im just going to jury rig it together in hopes that it works.

    I'm in too deep since I've bought ever other part I need and cant return them at this point.

    Has anybody else had a problem like this and have a solution?

    Right now I'm planning on inserting the locking block all the way, setting the other 2 pins into it and drilling a hole through the lower so that this new one lines up with the holes on the locking block, that way the pin cant hit up against it, then I'm going to fill the excess space with epoxy to keep it sturdy. How does that sound to you guys?
     
  2. jokester945

    jokester945

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    Pictures would help, have you tried putting a small Allen wrench through both holes in one side? It would show you the angle in degrees of how far it is off.

    I wouldn’t epoxy, it will crack.


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  3. dead_beat

    dead_beat

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    I fit the drill bit I used to drill the holes through them, They line up correctly, just the locking block doesn't line up, one of the sides is sticking out a bit. I'll post pictures a bit later, I'm at work right now so I cant.
     
  4. Dukeboy01

    Dukeboy01 Pretty Ladies!

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    I had a similar problem with the M4 hole and the M3 hole right above it. One tip that I learned (after I had already did it, of course) is that you should use duct tape to seal the jig up tight before drilling. I'm going to make sure to do that on my next build.

    I drilled each side separately at first and didn't run the bit all the way through the frame from one side to the other, which I think is the recommendation. I ended up with the same problem, with the M4 and the upper M3 holes slightly off center so the pin would not go through. I solved it by putting it all together, including the trigger assembly and then very carefully and slowly drilling it all the way through the entire frame, including through the hole in the trigger assembly on the M4. I did it from both sides.

    I ended up with the upper M3 holes slightly oval in shape, but not enough to affect final assembly or fitting the pin. The M4 holes were fine. I have about 1500 rounds through it without any significant pin shift.

    Good luck.
     
  5. dead_beat

    dead_beat

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    I did tape it too after watching some videos, but what you said is exactly what I'm going to attempt later today. Thanks for the reply, gives me hope that this will actually work out now.
     
  6. cciman

    cciman

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    Ahh... the challenge of build it yourself, in the pursuit of perfection with hand tools! Fun fun fun. Have a mallet, block, and files handy. Makes one appreciate the perfection of mass production.

    I had the same issues
    (Used tape to close the jig, I was as careful as possible on the drill points.
    Holes did not line up. Hee hee, woohoo!)

    Once the locking block is tapped into the frame it is almost impossible to remove (sits inside its own tightly molded pocket), so the pin is almost just a security measure. I reamed the holes enough to achieve slight angle so pins could go through (inginuity- who says it's gotta be perfect). They are tight, but so what, since pin fitment has no effect on the function of the gun.

    Before installing it, I would make sure frame rails fit the slide without any catches, because you will be sorry otherwise (you will have to cut it to remove it).

    Final product on mine, is something that is almost impossible to take apart, since pins are super tight and front block is near permanent, so be sure of your components on the install. But it works beautifully, until something breaks, and I'll just put the old frame on.

    Have fun.
     
  7. jokester945

    jokester945

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    Tell me if this makes sense: put locking block in frame, push and seat. Stick Allen wrench in frame hole and “wiggle” to find locking block hole. I’m betting the Allen wrench is pointing up a bit and not at a 90 degree angle.

    Using the Allen wrench use leverage to line up holes ( probably pushing down) Repeat on the other side. If the Allen wrenches are flat and level you should have 4 holes that align. Take a longer Allen wrench and push through all 4 holes to ensure it’s aligned. Continue assembly.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. dead_beat

    dead_beat

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    This wont work because the locking block slides up and towards where the barrel would be. The locking block has its own little pocket to sit in and if it moves at all the whole assembly is out of spec and nothing will fit, nor will the slide be on correctly.
     
  9. cciman

    cciman

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    Yup, the front locking block is fixed position flush into its mold pocket....you have to make the holes fit where it sits, not force it.
     
  10. DJ Niner

    DJ Niner Staff Member Moderator

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