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Polymer work/ Coating choices

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by TxDoubleAgent, Oct 8, 2012.

  1. TxDoubleAgent

    TxDoubleAgent

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    As some of you may know, my G26 took a hop, skip, and bounce down a granite chipseal road. (Long story) http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ccw-talk/213423-i-need-spanking.html The polymer took some gouging with some sharp edges that need to be smoothed out or filled with some smoothing.

    Question is, what is the best way to go about doing this?? Plan to replace the Pearce grip +0, because it has a sharp spur in the palm of my hand. I could probably just grind that off and go on my way, but want the best cosmetic look I can get.

    My first thought was to just replace the frame, but other than a few gouges it's functionally perfect, and Gen4 frames are not easy to come by just yet. Also thought to just keep it the way that it is to be an excellent reminder of what my constant companion has been through. Doesn't look like much in the photos, but is jagged and does not have a smooth "feel" to it.

    Also, what are your opinions on Duracoat vs. Fail Zero Nickle Boron work??

    Your input on repair suggestions greatly appreciated.

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    Last edited: Oct 8, 2012
  2. Irelander

    Irelander Glocker

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    Have you thought about having your grip area refinished with stippling? You can do it yourself with a fine tipped soldering iron or you can send it to Bowie Tactical or Coldbore Customs or any number of other shops.

    I don't have experience with either of the slide refinishing items you mentioned but I would expect that the Nickel Boron work would last longer than Duracoat.
     

  3. cciman

    cciman

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    doesn't look that bad

    file , sand or dremel it smooth and call it a day.

    Nickle boron is much tougher than the Duracoat paint-- but it will make the slide very slick and harder to rack.