[630skirmish]

My trigger pull was very heavy, more then usual 5.5lb pull, so I bought an OEM minus connector. Trigger feels even worse than the original. Pulled lighter, aprox 4lb, but the take up and pull is crunchy and makes a click sound on the way back. When I take out the pin that hold the trigger housing located on the handle of the frame. The sound and grittiness goes away and the take up is really nice. I am not sure what is wrong with my trigger or other parts. Any idea?

Maybe the housing is bad? What is strange is that the original connector is smooth and not cruncy but just a bit too much weight at the break.

Maybe it a spring? still dont know why the oem minus connector was so bad...

Glock 19 gen 3. Polished internals.

 

[L-2]

If it mine, I'd detail strip the frame first, examining all the parts as I took them out. If I saw something wrong with the parts or aftermarket parts, I'd probably have my answer at that point.

Another thing I'd be watching for is how the parts were assembled. Something like the trigger spring not centered on the trigger bar or the trigger spring in backwards could be an indicator to me.

There are other checks I'd do on the slide assembly, too.

It might also help if you included detailed photos and disclose which model and generation of this Glock.

 

[630skirmish]

If it mine, I'd detail strip the frame first, examining all the parts as I took them out. If I saw something wrong with the parts or aftermarket parts, I'd probably have my answer at that point.

Another thing I'd be watching for is how the parts were assembled. Something like the trigger spring not centered on the trigger bar or the trigger spring in backwards could be an indicator to me.

There are other checks I'd do on the slide assembly, too.

It might also help if you included detailed photos and disclose which model and generation of this Glock.

All the parts look good to me. I can’t tell at this point. It’s a Glock 19 gen 3. I Polished internals. I can take pics if it would help.


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[630skirmish]

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[gatorboy]

Clean up that bar that strips the next round off the mag and clean up the fpb. Unless it's the lighting?

 

[OBG17]

The trigger spring seems to be assembled correctly. You could always buy another TMH and see if that helps. They are not very expensive.

 

[ChillyB]

Did it do this before you fixed it with all the polishing?

Do the pin holes line up nicely before you install the pin? Long shot, but try installing pin from right to left and see how it feels. Then reinstall from left to right, and compare.

 

[JBP55]

Did it do this before you fixed it with all the polishing?

Do the pin holes line up nicely before you install the pin? Long shot, but try installing pin from right to left and see how it feels. Then reinstall from left to right, and compare.

?????

 

[ChillyB]

reply to "?????": the difference in feel depending on whether pin is installed or not suggests the possibility that the pin might be placing the trigger bar and disconnector in a bind with each other. If pin holes in housing and frame are misaligned installing the pin will create a bind. And just maybe, and unlikely, that installing pin from left to right might push the mechanism to the right of the cavity, pinching the trigger bar and disconnector.

It could also be that the hump on the bar that rides under the disconnector ramp has been honed and polished to a knife edge where it rubs in the corner of the disconnnector fold. With no pin the mechanism might rock to side sufficient that the knife edge isn't cutting into the fold. With pin installed the edge might be forced into the crease.

Seems like other replies confirmed some of the more probably causes, as well as some even less plausible causes. It I'd start here: what did the OP mess with (polishing trigger bar and disconnector)? Then undo that (replace trigger bar and disconnector).

 

[ChillyB]

I just pushed the pin out of mine and after dry firing the holes in housing and frame at no longer aligned. Trigger bar hump lifts the housing upward by the disconnector ramp. Can't say my trigger feels different because it's not gritty to begin with.

That trigger shoe looks non-Glock. Did you replace just the shoe, or trigger and bar? Maybe install the OEM parts and see how it feels. I suspect the edges are honed and polished but with sharp corners.

 

[druryj]

I just pushed the pin out of mine and after dry firing the holes in housing and frame at no longer aligned. Trigger bar hump lifts the housing upward by the disconnector ramp. Can't say my trigger feels different because it's not gritty to begin with.

That trigger shoe looks non-Glock. Did you replace just the shoe, or trigger and bar? Maybe install the OEM parts and see how it feels. I suspect the edges are honed and polished but with sharp corners.

This. Seems to me the solution to "why" probably lies in the aftermarket parts. Put the OEM stuff back in and check. My guess now centers around that suspect trigger shoe and anything else there not stock.

 

[630skirmish]

I just pushed the pin out of mine and after dry firing the holes in housing and frame at no longer aligned. Trigger bar hump lifts the housing upward by the disconnector ramp. Can't say my trigger feels different because it's not gritty to begin with.

That trigger shoe looks non-Glock. Did you replace just the shoe, or trigger and bar? Maybe install the OEM parts and see how it feels. I suspect the edges are honed and polished but with sharp corners.

The internals are stock. Only replaced shoe.
I noticed when I dry fire that the slide actually jumps a little. I found it odd that the -connector worked really nice with out the pin in the trigger housing but the original connector works fine with pin in bit just breaks a little harder then it should.

Everything in this Glock internally is stock. I polished with a compound and cotton wheel. No material was removed or deformed.


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[BigMoneyGrip]

The trigger spring is backwards. When looking fron the right side, the hooks should be an "S".

 

[630skirmish]

The trigger spring is backwards. When looking fron the right side, the hooks should be an "S".

I’m going to give that a try, let’s see!


Seems the same after switching it. Thank you though.
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[OBG17]

If yours looks like this then it's correct. Also look at this starting at the 1:28 mark and you will see the correct orientation of the trigger return spring.
https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/beautiful-animation-of-a-glock-firing-cycling.1639896/

 

[BigMoneyGrip]

Also make sure the hook of the spring is in the notch of the trigger bar. Sometimes on reassembly the hook will come out of the notch. This will make the trigger feel different.

 

[Mr Meeseeks]

Also make sure the hook of the spring is in the notch of the trigger bar. Sometimes on reassembly the hook will come out of the notch. This will make the trigger feel different.

Beat me to it.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

The stock assembly is very smooth unless someone has screwed with it. Make sure your dealing with factory, unmolested parts. The vast majority of problems are from homeschooled gunsmithimg or aftermarket parts.

 

[rick458]

The ramp for the striker plunger looks a little rough, polish that and it will improve the smoothness of pull.

 

[CPTmorgan]

The internals are stock. Only replaced shoe.
I noticed when I dry fire that the slide actually jumps a little. I found it odd that the -connector worked really nice with out the pin in the trigger housing but the original connector works fine with pin in bit just breaks a little harder then it should.

Everything in this Glock internally is stock. I polished with a compound and cotton wheel. No material was removed or deformed.

The SSVI TYR Trigger was designed to change your shooting experience... did it "break a little harder then it should" before you installed the SSVI TYR? Do you have an actual OEM trigger w/trigger bar you can install to compare to the SSVI modified trigger?