Pardini GT Trigger Adjustment

Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by Yuns, Jul 18, 2015.

  1. Yuns

    Yuns

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    The problem with a lot of more unusual pistols is that there is a dearth of documentation about them. You may find a PDF of the owner’s manual, a parts diagram or a youtube video or two filmed at 360p if you are lucky but practical understanding of how to adjust the forearm may not be out there. In that spirit, I am putting together a series of posts on some less common pistols or less known features of pistols in order to save it here in case someone in the future has a question about it.

    WARNING: do not adjust your trigger unless you know what you are doing! You can create problems with the trigger and the manufacturer recommends that certain adjustments only be made by a qualified technician for safety reasons. I am describing these adjustments for informational purposes but am not recommending that you make any adjustments to your trigger unless you are qualified to do so. If you are qualified to do so, make small adjustments and test.

    The first in this series is about the trigger adjustment of the Pardini GT series.

    [​IMG]

    The Pardini GT is a full size single action only semiautomatic pistol designed for IPSC and bullseye competition by the Italian company Pardini that is the successor to their earlier PC series pistols. It is available in 9mm, 9x21mm, .40 S&W and .45 ACP. There are 2 slide lengths. The standard slide with its 5” barrel and the extended slide with its 6” barrel. There are 2 frame sizes: GT9 and GT45 and magazines are not compatible between them. The GT45 frame can be converted to all 4 calibers. The GT9 frame can only be converted between 9mm and 9x21mm.

    The trigger is SAO and fully adjustable. Here is the schematic diagram of the trigger:

    [​IMG]

    Pardini described it as follows:

    1. Duplex screw “1” controls the 2nd stage of the trigger pull. Turning the outer body clockwise increases the LENGTH of the 2nd stage. (If turned counterclockwise far enough, the 2nd stage disappears.) Turning the inner screw clockwise increases the WEIGHT of the 2nd stage.

    2. Screw “2” acts as a trigger stop or overtravel adjustment. Turning it clockwise reduces the over travel. Too far in, and the sear cannot be released.

    3. Screw “3” and “4” should only be adjusted by qualified technicians to avoid damage to the pistol or unsafe operation! Screw 3 adjusts the trigger pull length and screw 4 regulates the sear engagement.

    Here’s how I would describe it instead:

    Screws 1, 2, 3 are all adjusted from the bottom of the pistol by working through the hole in the bottom of the trigger guard to access the adjustments. Screw 1 and 2 are obvious and fit into cut outs in the bottom of the frame. Screw 3 is hard to see and pokes out the underside of the trigger itself just forward of the trigger bow. Screw 4 is mounted laterally rather than vertically unlike the other screws and is accessed by removing the right side grip panel and looking for a tiny hole in the upper right that you can fit the allen key through.

    Please make all adjustments of 1/4 turn at a time or less and then test until you are familiar with the pistol and use a pull gauge and calipers to test weight and length changes.

    OVERTRAVEL ADJUSTMENT

    Screw 2 is the easiest and most intuitive to address. This is the overtravel stop and halts the downward tilt motion of the front of the trigger unit.

    You just use the allen key and turn clockwise until the overtravel is as short as you want it. You need some degree of travel/overtravel. If there is zero travel, the trigger cannot move enough to release the hammer. However, the travel can be as short as 0.3 mm or less. You can tell when you taken out too much travel/overtravel because the trigger pull weight will suddenly increase after turning the overtravel screw 2 in clockwise. This is caused by the travel being a bit too short to drop the hammer normally but still being able to drop the hammer by forcing the metal to flex. If the trigger weight suddenly increases as a result of a clockwise turn in screw 2 then you need to back off and turn screw 2 counterclockwise until the pull weight returns to normal. For example, my trigger weight is 2.3 lbs if I turn screw 2 clockwise there comes a point when there is no travel and the weight jumps to 3.9 lbs. If I screw it in clockwise any more then trigger will no longer fall. If I keep it as 3.9 lbs I am stressing the trigger components by flexing them so I then back off until the pull is back to the normal 2.3 lbs.

    PRETRAVEL ADJUSTMENT

    Screw 3 looks like it is adjusted from the top in the diagram. It is not. It is adjusted from the bottom of the trigger. It also looks like you need to remove the trigger unit to adjust screw 3. You do not. It can be adjusted with the pistol fully assembled. Screw 3 passes through the underside of the trigger itself and sits against the top of the trigger unit housing.

    You insert your allen key though the hole in the trigger guard and look for the black screw against the underside of the front of the trigger unit and turn it clockwise to reduce pretravel/slack. NOTE! This is not reduction in the first stage of the 2 stage trigger this is reduction in the slack prior to the first stage. As screw 3 is turned clockwise it tilts the trigger bow forward to take up any slack. If you turn it too much then it will prevent the trigger from moving forward enough to reset the trigger. It also is among the most sensitive of the settings so use 1/8 turn adjustments and test. You should leave in a touch of pretravel. Things can get wonky at the very limits of pretravel. If you dial out all the pretravel whatsoever, you may get a slower stickier reset just before the point where there isn’t enough room to reset . So if you dial out the pretravel and get to the point were suddenly the reset seems slow and weak then back off

    Screw 3 should be used in conjunction with screw 4 if you choose to use screw 4 to reduce reset. As reset is reduced by screw 4, the first stage gets shorter. The overall trigger travel stays the same so the first stage moves further make reducing the first stage but increasing the slack to keep the travel constant. Once this occurs you’ll screw in Screw 3 to take out the new additional amount of slack.

    If the reverse happens where you increase the first stage with Screw 4, you’ll have to increase pretravel with screw 3 if you increase the first stage to the point where the reset is past the point of the trigger travel.

    RESET ADJUSTMENT

    Screw 4 adjusts the length of the sear engagement. As a practical matter, this reduces the reset length as the length of sear engagement is shortened. If the engagement is reduced too much the sear will be resting on the hammer right at the break point and there can be major safety issues including hammer follow or the hammer falling unexpectedly. For safety reasons, don’t adjust this unless you understand what is going on and test for safety purposes after making adjustments.

    Screw 4 requires the removal of the right side grip panel. This is removed with 2 short screws that can be removed with your included allen key.

    Once removed you will see a tiny hole at the top of the grip frame that will fit the smallest allen key of the 4 allen key set that came with the Pardini GT. Though it is not necessary to remove the slide to adjust screw 4, I recommend that y ou do so you can visually inspect sear engagement as you adjust it for safety purposes.

    When you pull the trigger the trigger transfers the tilting motion of the trigger through the transfer bar to the sear. The sear (called the “counter hammer” in the Pardini parts diagrams) rotates/tilts forward until it gets to the catch point where the hammer is released.

    Screw 4 inserts laterally across the bottom of the sear which tilts back as the top of the sear rotates forward. The bottom of the sear is cut at an angle and as you screw in Screw 4 more by turning the screw in clockwise the screw slides along the front of the bottom of the sear where the angled cut causes the bottom of the sear to rotate back and the top of the sear to tilt forward. This takes up the sear travel. You can see if too much is taken up the sear will sit right at the engagement point of the hammer and be unsafe. Look down into the housing of the hammer and sear and you can visually see the engagement and degree of sear rotation and release point

    By turning screw 4 in clockwise and taking up the sear, you are reducing the amount of rotation the sear needs to drop the hammer and thus are reducing the amount of reset needed. So stage 1 is shortened. However, the full take up remains the same length so the part of stage 1 removed becomes slack which must be taken up by Screw 3. So use these in conjunction. Reduce reset then when reset is suitably reduced to a still safe amount use Screw 3 to take up the remaining slack. If you increase reset for safety purposes, you may need to back off Screw 3 in order to have enough travel to reset.

    Remember to not just reduce reset to the shortest possible. Inspect and test as you are adjusting reset to maintain a safe degree of sear engagement! If you are not qualified to do so or don’t understand how to verify safe sear engagement, don’t make this adjustment.

    SECOND STAGE TRIGGER WEIGHT AND SECOND STAGE TRIGGER LENGTH

    These are the adjustments other than the overtravel adjustment of Screw 2 that are most likely to be made by people. Screw 1 is actually 2 screws. There is a large external screw that is adjusted with a screw driver inserted in the slots cut at the top of the screw body and inside the screw you can insert an allen key to adjust the screw that is inside the body of the first screw.

    This duplex screw acts on the front of the trigger unit and not on either the trigger return spring or the hammer spring. So how does this work.

    The duplex screw sits in the frame just in front of the overtravel stop. It sits just under the very front of the trigger but does not contact the trigger front when there is no pressure on the trigger. The top of the screw has a spring loaded interior part which sits higher than the rest of the screw. When you initially pull the trigger the trigger is being pushed forward by the tension of the trigger return spring. After initial take up the first stage of the trigger travel is the travel of the front of the trigger as it lowers but before it contacts the spring loaded top of the duplex screw. Once it hit the top of the duplex screw then stage 2 begins. The distance between the top of the duplex screw and the outer edge of the duplex screw (maximum amount of trigger travel) provides the length of the second stage. Because the duplex screw does not dictate the point at which the trigger will fall, screw 2, the overtravel screw, which sits behind screw 1 is useful in eliminating overtravel independently of the stage 2 length.

    The interior screw of duplex 1 increases the tension on the spring loaded top of the duplex screw by compressing and tensioning the internal spring that you must push against during stage 2. Stage 1 only involves overcoming the trigger return spring etc. whereas stage 2 includes the spring in duplex screw 1. Using a screw driver to screw in the duplex screw means that the trigger contacts the duplex screw earlier causing stage 2 to begin earlier i.e. the beginning of stage 2 begins earlier in the trigger pull. If you screw the duplex screw out far enough by turning it counter clockwise, the trigger causes the hammer to drop before the front of the trigger ever contacts the top of the duplex screw eliminating the second stage.

    I keep screw 1 backed out enough with the main body adjustment that I have the shortest stage 2 possible without eliminating it all together. I keep the interior screw backed out to give the minimum amount of weight. For adjustment of the interior screw just back it out until your second stage is as light as you like it. If you keep turning it counterclockwise and the pull does not get lighter stop adjusting it as it is an the minimum amount of compression and all that backing it out more will cause is losing parts.

    The minimum pull weight will be around 2.1-2.3 lbs. About 1 kg give or take.

    One reason you might want to keep the second stage a touch heavier is keeping a distinct difference between the first and second stage. If the first stage trigger weight is 2 lbs and the additional weight of the second stage is 6 oz, it becomes very easy to accidentally pull completely through the stages. If you make the second stage 1 lb or 1.5 lbs additional then a first stage of 2 lbs followed by an additional 1 lb in the second stage means that it is easier to stage and hold without pulling through.

    I hope this summary is useful for Pardini GT owners who are trying to figure out their own pistols given the lack of description in the manual. Technically only the ride grip panel has to be removed to make these adjustments but you want to remove the slide to inspect it as you make adjustments.
     
  2. bac1023

    bac1023

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    Tom, thanks for the great effort. I was glad to hear you were going to post it.

    I'll go through it carefully.

    It would be hard to find a better centerfire range pistol than a Pardini GT. I have a few equals, but none better. It's also the smoothest, slickest pistol I own.
     

  3. Rinspeed

    Rinspeed JAFO

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    Very nice job Tom, that's a lot to take in. Very cool pistols though and hopefully some day I can pick one up.
     
  4. Yuns

    Yuns

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    Thanks. I hope it's helpful to some people.
     
  5. Trey83

    Trey83

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    I hope to have a need for this article at some point. I live 45 minutes away from Pardini USA and hope to buy one in the next year or so.

    Thanks for the writeup.
     
  6. bac1023

    bac1023

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    You won't be disappointed.
     
  7. lifesizepotato

    lifesizepotato TatersGonnaTate

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    Wow, what an incredible write-up. I remember finding the manual's instructions to be a bit unclear, and I pretty much just fiddled with the assorted screws until it felt right to me. I might try to revisit mine and see if I can tweak it a little more.

    Once everyone gets their Pardini, as they should if they wish to follow the Righteous Path, this thread will be a great resource. :cool:
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2015
  8. bac1023

    bac1023

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    Indeed a great thread for a great pistol...
     
  9. right arm

    right arm

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    Yuns talked me into buying one of these, but originally it was LSP who got me introduced to them via youtube. I'd like to thank them both :D

    I've been talking to Yuns over on another forum about adjusting the trigger on this thing, and here is my write up for the small adjustments I've made; mostly to the overall weight and reset.

    First off, you've got to field strip the pistol. Detail stripping is the next part. You don't need to remove the trigger or its linkage, just the back section, held by two pins, that slides out of the frame as seen here:

    [​IMG]

    Color code:

    Red: sear spring pin
    Green: sear pin
    Yellow: sear engagement screw (1.5mm hex, CCW for more engagement (SAFETY) along with a longer overall travel and reset, CW for shorter travel and shorter reset)
    Blue: hammer pin
    Magenta: ball detent, don't lose this. It sucks digging it out of the carpet.

    So after you've field stripped the gun, you'll want to remove your grips and pop those two frame pins out. You'll be left with that back half pictured above. It's all self contained, so don't worry about losing anything. You will want to hold the hammer though as it is possible to bump the sear on the frame and drop the hammer. Luckily the Pardini is smartly designed and this will not destroy your precision machined sear/hammer engagement surfaces or peen your frame, but it's still smart to be safe.

    Removing the right side of the thumb safety is self explanatory. Press on the left half of the safety towards the opposite side. Use a hollow-ground screwdriver to remove the screw from the right half of the safety. Once removed, it ought to look like this:

    [​IMG]

    Next part is a little more difficult. Especially if your Pardini is dirty or it is fresh from the factory. You'll be pulling the safety out from the left side of the backstrap. Fit is very tight, but if you've got weak hands or an excessively tight gun (mine was fine, just took a bit of twisting and it popped right out) you can tap the opposite side (face up in the above photo) with an oversize punch. Do not damage the threads or the slot that the screw and safety fit into in the above photo.

    [​IMG]

    Once your safety is far enough away from your frame. STOP! Do not lose the ball detent circled in the above picture. It's a pain in the ass digging it out of the carpet. Once you've placed it somewhere safe, continue removing the safety.

    [​IMG]

    Once you've removed your safety, you can then do a few more things to your gun. If you really want to detail strip it you can remove the ejector with a 2mm hex key. It's the screw that sits to the left of the hammer pin and above the area the safety inserts. Very simple. There is also a spring for the detent. I may try a weaker spring in there to make engaging the safety easier, but that's a project for another day.

    [​IMG]

    Alright, since we're skipping the above things, we'll move forward in adjusting the 1st stage weight. The sear engagement screw must be fully withdrawn from the sear to check for safety. CCW with that 1.5mm hex I mentioned earlier. Do remember to screw it back in flush with the frame as the backstrap will not reinsert without it flush.

    [​IMG]

    Excuse the bent starrett. I got lazy and was tempering another project and didn't have anything to hold it with besides this poor punch. Anyways, before we drive the sear pin out, you'll want to decock the hammer. Do so by placing your thumb on the hammer and pushing the base of the sear (near the engagement screw) backwards towards the hammer. Again, do not let the hammer fly forward. Once that is done you'll want to drive the sear pin out. No need to push it all the way out, just far enough to free the sear.

    Now I haven't tried this personally as it's easier to measure adjustments with the sear removed, but you could just free the sear spring by halfway removing the sear spring pin (red), but again, measuring is smarter.

    [​IMG]

    You'll want to take that sear spring and bend it towards its other leg. This is where mine sits at when the right side of the leg presses solidly against the backstrap. This seems as far as I could bend it without having engagement issues.

    TESTING:

    BAD!:

    [​IMG]

    You left your sear engagement screw fully backed out correct? If you did, and you do not have enough sear spring pressure, your sear will not push all the way down and you will hear a very very faint click, or nothing at all when cocking your hammer. You can also test this by keeping your hammer cocked and pressing down on your sear from the top there. If there is vertical "give" to the sear, you pushed your leg too close to the frame. Disassemble and try again.

    GOOD!:

    [​IMG]

    Comparing the above images, the differences are very subtle, but in this test my sear/hammer made an audible click and the was zero vertical "give" in the sear. The test was passed.

    Final adjustment that will make a bit of a difference and shave a couple ounces off your overall trigger weight is to swap the hammer spring. Doing so is easy. Remove your safety and sear as described above. With your hammer decocked, remove your hammer pin (blue) while keeping your finger over it so you don't shoot your eye out. Hammer and strut will fall out of the backstrap alongside your spring. The Pardini spring is a bit strong for my needs (I handload with Federal and Tula primers and have zero issues with reliability with this modification). So I took a HK P9S 10lb hammer spring (from Wolff) and cut it to the same length as the original Pardini spring. 1911 springs will also likely work if you've got those lying around (I know I do).

    Once you've got everything set, you can adjust your sear engagement just how Yuns described it in his previous posts. To test mine I basically dialed out all of the engagement (CW) until the hammer fell, then gave the sear engagement screw two full CCW turns with that 1.5mm hex, and then tested for hammer follow by limpwristing the gun while dropping the slide in various directions and then shooting a box (20) of hot handloads through it one/two at a time. Passed every test. Trigger clocks in at ~1.5lbs on my crappy wheeler trigger scale for the first stage and then whatever you want for the second (I have mine set as a rolling single stage at that ~1.5lbs. Very similar to the Geissele 3 gun trigger).

    Anyways, hope that helps some of you out in monkeying with your Pardinis. I know I love mine even more every time I open it up.
     
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  10. bac1023

    bac1023

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    Wow. Lots of great info.

    :welcome:
     
  11. lifesizepotato

    lifesizepotato TatersGonnaTate

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    Dang, ish just got real in here. Great post, right arm. How's about a photo of your gun all put together?
     
  12. Yuns

    Yuns

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    Great seeing you on GlockTalk General Firearms and thanks for the incredibly detailed and useful explanation and great photos. I think this thread is the most detailed explanation of the Pardini out there.
     
  13. right arm

    right arm

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    Haha I promise it's back in one piece, but here's a shot of it when I first got it. Just a lame iPhone pic, but once we get some decent cloudy weather here in OR, I'll break the DSLR out of storage :D

    [​IMG]

    Agreed. I haven't been able to find much info out about these things, which is a great shame. Hopefully we can attract a few more buyers!
     
  14. lifesizepotato

    lifesizepotato TatersGonnaTate

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    [​IMG]

    ...also, is your slide polished?
     
  15. bac1023

    bac1023

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    Some beautiful Pardinis in this thread :hearts:
     
  16. right arm

    right arm

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    It is! It's the consolation prize for not having a full length dust cover with the lightening cuts. :D
    Thank you. I should say that you inspired me to purchase this gun as well, but your centerfire pistol guide really persuaded me to buy a TS and upgrade it a bit:

    [​IMG]

    Ended up selling it to a friend before the SSE exemption in California closed, but I've already talked to Yuns about the importation process and my thoughts on getting a TS Orange to replace it.
     
  17. lifesizepotato

    lifesizepotato TatersGonnaTate

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    That's part of what makes the Pardinis special, apart from everything else. They just look so darn good.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. bac1023

    bac1023

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    That's a beautiful TS. They are great shooters. :cool:

    I'm actually in the process of revamping that centerfire guide. In fact, I just added the Pardini today. I still have a ways to go yet. I have to add Switzerland and the USA.
     
  19. bac1023

    bac1023

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    Yes, they are beautiful pistols. :cool:

    I wonder if our two pistols were built on the same day? Probably the same week anyway...
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2015
  20. bac1023

    bac1023

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    The Pardini pics in this thread are just too perfect.

    I figured to jazz it up with a goofy upside down carpet pic of mine. ;)


    [​IMG]









    I think its a beautiful pistol from any angle though...


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2015
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