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Paint pros, need quick advice...

Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by Detectorist, May 15, 2013.

  1. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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    I may have a gig next week painting 2 bedrooms and a living room in exchange for some stuff. I haven't painted in 25 years. Owner is supplying all the paint and supplies.

    Give me advice and tell me about the necessary equipment. I know things have changed in 25 years....

    Thanks!
     
  2. JBG30

    JBG30

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    I'll defer to the pro's, but I'd tell the owner to buy PPG paint and Purdy brushes and rollers or find someone else to do it. Nothing worse than painting with cheap products.
     

  3. *ACE*

    *ACE*

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    Seriously? You're contracting to do house painting and ask those questions?

    Dude.
     
  4. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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    It's not brain surgery. Thanks for your help, anyway.
     
  5. southGA

    southGA

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    There is a difference is paint quality. You get what you pay for. I use sherwin Williams, stay away from lowes house brand, worst paint I've ever used. A good brush and roller cover and that's about it. Since you don't paint regularly, tape along the baseboards and any trim and you'll wind up with a nice clean edge. Also if you are using more than a gallon of a color in a room and you have for example, 2 one gallon cans, make sure you box/mix em together. Even though they mix each exactly I have had times where they were off just enough to see a slight variation in where I stopped with one and started with the new. I also wash my rollers the day before I use em to remove any loose fibers, then just let em dry overnight. Good luck.
     
  6. Dennis in MA

    Dennis in MA Get off my lawn

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    I've had 2 professional painters tell me this:

    Brushes - Purdy.

    Rollers - cheap ones.

    Why?

    You never ever EVER wash a roller. It's a waste of time and water. Bag it between coats and then toss it at the end of the job.

    Learn to cut in so you don't need to tape.

    One trick I use for latex paint - get some FloTrol (sp?) and put a bit into the cup with your trim paint. It helps it lay flatter and get rid of brush marks. Thins the paint a bit. Gets that look of oil-based trim paint.

    Sand all the corners before painting. Sharp edges = chipping.

    No matter what the can tells you, two coats. TWO COATS! (More to make sure you covered everything than anything.)

    I'm a big Ben Moore fan. Sherwin works just fine - used it for years. Not a fan of the Lowe's or Home dePot paint. Too thick!
     
  7. GreenDrake

    GreenDrake Rip Lips

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  8. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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    Thank you! Great advice!
     
  9. CitizenOfDreams

    CitizenOfDreams

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    That's true for both paint and painters. :rofl:
     
  10. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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    Not really true in my case. I'm being over paid. :tongueout:
     
  11. stevemc

    stevemc

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    A painter showed me a trick with the rollers. Just leave them in the paint bucket and don't worry about cleaning them, toss them when you are done so you don't get any boogers on the wall. The blue masking tape works well on the trim. Another thing I did in one room was to mask about 3/4" down from the ceiling and paint around the corner to a perfect line without messing with the corner that never looks right anyway.
     
  12. GreenDrake

    GreenDrake Rip Lips

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    bathroom caulking on the tape seams leaves you with perfect lines, especially on textured walls.
     
  13. Dennis in MA

    Dennis in MA Get off my lawn

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    Draw a line with your 6 in one tool between the ceiling and wall. Simple as pie to cut in to that line.

    After washing your brush, return it to the package or wrap it in paper towels to hold the original shape. I saw 3 brushes bent 30degrees today. Ugh.
     
  14. scwine

    scwine ^%(#@$^!!!!!!!

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    Are you painting walls and trim? Or just walls? There is a difference in what you will need. Latex or oil base?
    These would be the first things a reply should consider.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  15. scwine

    scwine ^%(#@$^!!!!!!!

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    Sorry,but that is wrong. Buy the stiffest roller frame and best roller cover you can afford. A good one washed out w/ water if using latex or washed out with thinner if using oil-base will last for a long long time. It will also put way more paint on the given area. Do not go cheap on rollers ever.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  16. scwine

    scwine ^%(#@$^!!!!!!!

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    Get a good adjustable roller pole and a 5 gallon bucket w/ a [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-F0001-Deluxe-Gallon/dp/B0019ESMLK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1"]Wooster Brush F0001 Acme Deluxe Five Gallon Grid - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31dQhN%2Bze5L.@@AMEPARAM@@31dQhN%2Bze5L[/ame]
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  17. *ACE*

    *ACE*

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    I hope whatever he's giving you is worth maybe $10. Because that's all your "expertise" is worth. So, if the job takes 10 hours, divided by 10, equals a buck an hour ............. yeah, that sounds about right.

    But maybe you'll luck out. Some people like even crap on walls.

    Just don't quit your real job.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  18. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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    Thanks for your positive input. I'll make sure to let the homeowner know about your concerns. :rofl:
     
  19. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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    I'm not understanding that...
     
  20. Detectorist

    Detectorist

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