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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a non-marring alternative to the standard Glock tool, the shaft of which is made out of steel. It definitely screws up the baseplate and insert once you've disassembled a magazine more than a few times, and sometimes after only the first time, and that's WITH the GTUL, which is an absolute godsend to be sure. So bottom line: I'm looking for something in either nylon or plastic, preferably something cheap that comes in a length where if the end occasionally chips or breaks off it's no big deal, but the trick is finding something in either 3/32" or 1/8" (whatever the diameter of the hole in the baseplate is), which for whatever reason is proving exceedingly difficult. :upeyes:
 

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Well, I've been removing Glock magazine bases since 1997, using a Glock tool, and I've never messed up a base. Of course, I use the proper procedure as taught in armorer's class.
 

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toothpick or electrical tape come to mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I've been removing Glock magazine bases since 1997, using a Glock tool, and I've never messed up a base. Of course, I use the proper procedure as taught in armorer's class.
And what procedure might that be? To be specific, I mean marking around the frontward edge of the hole in the baseplate from trying to pull the plate forward and over the lugs on the magazine body to remove it, and the raised button on the insert that interfaces with the baseplate. That part tends to get chewed all to hell on me. Any help would be appreciated, and thanks. :wavey:
 

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1. insert the Glock tool smartly all the way to the handle, flipping over the magazine insert that is inside the tube.

2. With the tool fully inserted, pull forward about 1/2in while squeezing the magazine base.

3. Remove the tool and slide the base off.
 

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You dont need any kind of tool to remove a Glock baseplate. I dont know who teaches these classes in most areas but we were taught how to do it easily with just your hands and leave no marks of any kind. LONG EXPLANATION, would be a lot easier to show you but here we go. If your right handed, grab the mag in your right hand with the base facing up and the back of the mag facing away from you just like you were holding a gun to fire it. This puts the bottom of the mag facing up. Now find a hard flat table top of similiar. Point the mag down with the outside corner on the flat surface and push down hard. the floor plate will be forced out on the side and slide approw, 1/4 inch or so forward then stick your thumb ofer the crack to catch the spring and pull the plate forward off the from of the mag. The first time you do it, it may be a little hard but once you do it the first time you will NRVER look for another tool. It really is NOT needed and will do NO harm of any kind to the mag or leave any kind of marks anywhere. I wish I could show you as it is really easy.:cool:
 

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Any other 3/32nd punch? Maybe brass? Electrical tape? The 'glock tool' is one of the most overpriced items I've ever seen.
 

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The part's a couple bucks? Don't worry about it? By "screw up", you mean "slight mark". Buy new baseplates if you ever sell the mags.
 

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You dont need any kind of tool to remove a Glock baseplate. I dont know who teaches these classes in most areas but we were taught how to do it easily with just your hands and leave no marks of any kind. LONG EXPLANATION, would be a lot easier to show you but here we go. If your right handed, grab the mag in your right hand with the base facing up and the back of the mag facing away from you just like you were holding a gun to fire it. This puts the bottom of the mag facing up. Now find a hard flat table top of similiar. Point the mag down with the outside corner on the flat surface and push down hard. the floor plate will be forced out on the side and slide approw, 1/4 inch or so forward then stick your thumb ofer the crack to catch the spring and pull the plate forward off the from of the mag. The first time you do it, it may be a little hard but once you do it the first time you will NRVER look for another tool. It really is NOT needed and will do NO harm of any kind to the mag or leave any kind of marks anywhere. I wish I could show you as it is really easy.:cool:
Yeah, I'm not thinking you are doing this... How exactly are you unlocking the Floor plate insert from the mag floor plate?

The tool is the quickest and easiest.
 

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A plastic/polymer punch wouldn't work for the purpose. You need the rigidity of a steel punch to accomplish removal of the baseplate and insert. New magazines are really tough to disassemble until you take them apart the first couple of times. Both the the tabs at the bottom of the magazine, and the corresponding baseplate cutouts, take a subtle "rounding-off" during disassembly.

Insert the metal punch straight-down into the insert hole in the baseplate - right to the "hilt" of the Glock armorer tool. Simultaneously squeeze both sides of the magazine RIGHT ABOVE the tabs/baseplate, while pulling the still-inserted-to-the-"hilt" armorer tool towards you like a stickshift. The baseplate should pop forward of the locking tabs. Ease it off while capturing the insert and magazine spring (use the thumb of the hand that's holding the magazine) so the parts don't do a "Houston". The GTUL "boot" makes compression of the magazine sides a breeze, and the increased girth of the handle of the GTUL brush/punch make popping the baseplate easier, too.

Non full-metal lined (NFML/NDF) magazines are MUCH easier to disassemble than newer full-metal-lined (FML/DF) magazines, by virtue of the fact that the sides of the NFML mags compress with far less effort. Remember, only three sides are metal lined, and the original design dispensed with the locking insert. Little force was required to remove the baseplate. Alas, too little, as they were known to spontaneously self-disassemble (Houston, we have a problem). The addition of the insert solved the problem entirely. The FML's, by contrast, require considerable effort to disassemble - especially when new. Get a GTUL.
 

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Yeah, I'm not thinking you are doing this... How exactly are you unlocking the Floor plate insert from the mag floor plate?

The tool is the quickest and easiest.
Dont really care what your thinking, you can push the locking plate up with just about anything. Done it a thousand times. No tools necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
1. insert the Glock tool smartly all the way to the handle, flipping over the magazine insert that is inside the tube.

2. With the tool fully inserted, pull forward about 1/2in while squeezing the magazine base.

3. Remove the tool and slide the base off.
1. Okay, I think part of the problem is that it never occured to me that I actually WANT to flip over that pesky magazine insert and get it out of my way right off the bat. I initially thought I was doing something wrong, when in reality I was right the first time, go figure.

2. I can never squeeze the damn thing hard enough, and this time of year my hands take enough of a beating already, so I just got a GTUL (actually two), which I absolutely love.

Thanks for the helpful info. I think #1 is where I was screwing-up. As for the other part of it, if I've depressed the tabs properly, then it should not require a ridiculous amount of forward pressure to get the baseplate off in the first place, which was causing the other issue (stretching of the hole in the baseplate).
 

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Dont really care what your thinking, you can push the locking plate up with just about anything. Done it a thousand times. No tools necessary.
So you are using something to push in the floor plate right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The part's a couple bucks? Don't worry about it? By "screw up", you mean "slight mark". Buy new baseplates if you ever sell the mags.
Fair enough, I'm just extremely anal-retentive about leaving even the slightest marks on anything. It would be much more accurate to say "slight marks" than screwed-up. Thanks for putting it in perspective.
 

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So you are using something to push in the floor plate right?
I have a bad habbit of giving people credit for having a little common sense. You can use the fill part of an ink pen if you wish. I have even done it with a Q-tip So now go ahead and call that a tool. Ok by me. Just dont see how or why people make Glocks so complicated.
 

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I must be doing something wrong, I don't get mine dirty enough, to need to take apart yet. I don't really see that, as needing to be done all that often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
A plastic/polymer punch wouldn't work for the purpose. You need the rigidity of a steel punch to accomplish removal of the baseplate and insert. New magazines are really tough to disassemble until you take them apart the first couple of times. Both the the tabs at the bottom of the magazine, and the corresponding baseplate cutouts, take a subtle "rounding-off" during disassembly.

Insert the metal punch straight-down into the insert hole in the baseplate - right to the "hilt" of the Glock armorer tool. Simultaneously squeeze both sides of the magazine RIGHT ABOVE the tabs/baseplate, while pulling the still-inserted-to-the-"hilt" armorer tool towards you like a stickshift. The baseplate should pop forward of the locking tabs. Ease it off while capturing the insert and magazine spring (use the thumb of the hand that's holding the magazine) so the parts don't do a "Houston". The GTUL "boot" makes compression of the magazine sides a breeze, and the increased girth of the handle of the GTUL brush/punch make popping the baseplate easier, too.

Non full-metal lined (NFML/NDF) magazines are MUCH easier to disassemble than newer full-metal-lined (FML/DF) magazines, by virtue of the fact that the sides of the NFML mags compress with far less effort. Remember, only three sides are metal lined, and the original design dispensed with the locking insert. Little force was required to remove the baseplate. Alas, too little, as they were known to spontaneously self-disassemble (Houston, we have a problem). The addition of the insert solved the problem entirely. The FML's, by contrast, require considerable effort to disassemble - especially when new. Get a GTUL.
Everything you said made perfect sense and was extremely informative too. Thank you very, very much for your help! And yes, I only recently discovered the GTUL, and promptly bought another for backup. :banana:
 

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You're the one sitting here saying a tool is not needed yet you do use SOMETHING in place of a tool..

So in other words, with your method you either need a tool or be the tool..which is it?
 

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You're the one sitting here saying a tool is not needed yet you do use SOMETHING in place of a tool..

So in other words, with your method you either need a tool or be the tool..which is it?
Your gonna call it whatever you want so go ahead, I really dont care. Oh, and it's not MY method. It's the way we were taught and it works great . Use it or not makes no difference to me. I just made the suggestion to the OP, no one else. I know it's an open forum so everyone see's but the smart ones know who I was talking to.
 
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