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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so I figured Id try to redeem myself from my last vid posted here (pull up a chair and stay a while Arc:wavey:) JK man

I made a vid on the GLOCK 25 cent trigger job.

1) The rendering quality sucks because I cant remember the settings Ive been using but I plan on fixing it and reposting the better one so look past that please.

2) The music is me on my guitar so I dont violate any copywrite laws.:tongueout:

So what do yall think about production and info???

Let me have it!!

EDIT: THIS IS THE NEW HD VERSION!!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OE8ZFj7qll4&feature=channel_page
 

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You missed a couple of points on the trigger bar and connector. You'll want to polish the little lip on the connector and the very rearward rounded piece of the trigger bar that rides along the 1/8" lip of the connector. Overall, a pretty good video!


Is that you playing the guitar? Pretty good.:wavey:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You missed a couple of points on the trigger bar and connector. You'll want to polish the little lip on the connector and the very rearward rounded piece of the trigger bar that rides along the 1/8" lip of the connector. Overall, a pretty good video!


Is that you playing the guitar? Pretty good.:wavey:
Thanks for the info. I may have to revisit this vid later on if I get my editor running better.

Hey!! Your in Laurel!! Im in Richland!!
 

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"Those pot plants behind you?"

Have you ever been around an actual live pot plant? Doesn't sound like it.

Nice vid though, more informative than others I've seen.
 

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Thanks for the info. I may have to revisit this vid later on if I get my editor running better.

Hey!! Your in Laurel!! Im in Richland!!
Nice video, but it's not a good habit to let the slide fly on an empty chamber, extractor damage can occur.
 

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Thanks for the info. I may have to revisit this vid later on if I get my editor running better.

Hey!! Your in Laurel!! Im in Richland!!

What's funny is when I watched the video, my first thought was "With a country accent like that, this dude's gotta be from south MS." I think you talk more country than I do.:supergrin:


Nice video, but it's not a good habit to let the slide fly on an empty chamber, extractor damage can occur.
Never heard this. Could you please give me some credible info on this other than word of mouth? I let mine fly all the time.
 

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Where's the video? Says removed by user.
 

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I found it in another thread on General Glocking.
 

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Dare I say anything? :supergrin:

Your outlined close-ups of what and where to polish are the best I've ever seen on the internet!

If I may, I'd like to offer just a few suggestions: As I mentioned last time, use the proper names for these parts.

(You called the ejector the extractor, and misnamed the lock block, extractor depressor rod and spring loaded bearing assembly.)

Glock Part Names

This time you correctly showed how to keep your thumb over the back of the slide when you removed the slide cover; but, you neglected to say, 'Why'?

(Because the SLB spring is the most common part to fly off during slide disassembly! Ask me how I know!) ;)

I liked the part where you illustrated the flat of a small screwdriver blade to push back the firing pin spacer sleeve - That saves it from becoming dinged up by a 3/32's punch (Glock Tool). In the video you actually used a round Phillips head, though!

Did you know that there's a small hole for a Glock Tool or 3/32's punch on the other side of the trigger mechanism housing unit; you can use it in order to insert the tip of the armorer's tool and push the connector out without having to pry on either the connector, or the side of the TMH unit.

A Glock's pins are referred to as: 1, 2, & 3 for good reason. You correctly removed these pins from left to right; but, you began with the #3 pin. Sometimes when you do this you can cause a minor misalignment that makes the other pins a little tougher to remove.

Always remove these pins from left-to-right (as you did) and in the order of: 1, 2, 3. The pins are returned to the pistol from right-to-left. (I think you already know, 'Why'.) As has been pointed out, there are several other spots that could, also, be polished. In addition to the top of the FP safety, I do the sides as well.

Really not a bad video at all, though! In fact, as I said, one of the best I've seen on YouTube so far. I'd sooner watch your video before I'd waste time sifting through the rest. The world really could use a good, '25 cent polishing job' Glock video; I would encourage you to keep at it. :thumbsup:





PS: Don't forget that Glock recommends BOTH a visual and a tactile examination of the chamber in order to insure the pistol is empty!

Another useful tip might be to remember that you can use the back of a Glock's slide in order to compress the FP spring when you reinstall the spring cups. (Just put the pin in backwards and push down!)

Remember not to allow the edge of the FP spring to press up against either seam in the spring cups, too, OK.

Good job! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dare I say anything? :supergrin:

Your outlined close-ups of what and where to polish are the best I've ever seen on the internet!

If I may, I'd like to offer just a few suggestions: As I mentioned last time, use the proper names for these parts.

(You called the ejector the extractor, and misnamed the lock block, extractor depressor rod and spring loaded bearing assembly.)

Glock Part Names

This time you correctly showed how to keep your thumb over the back of the slide when you removed the slide cover; but, you neglected to say, 'Why'?

(Because the SLB spring is the most common part to fly off during slide disassembly! Ask me how I know!) ;)

I liked the part where you illustrated the flat of a small screwdriver blade to push back the firing pin spacer sleeve - That saves it from becoming dinged up by a 3/32's punch (Glock Tool). In the video you actually used a round Phillips head, though!

Did you know that there's a small hole for a Glock Tool or 3/32's punch on the other side of the trigger mechanism housing unit; you can use it in order to insert the tip of the armorer's tool and push the connector out without having to pry on either the connector, or the side of the TMH unit.

A Glock's pins are referred to as: 1, 2, & 3 for good reason. You correctly removed these pins from left to right; but, you began with the #3 pin. Sometimes when you do this you can cause a minor misalignment that makes the other pins a little tougher to remove.

Always remove these pins from left-to-right (as you did) and in the order of: 1, 2, 3. The pins are returned to the pistol from right-to-left. (I think you already know, 'Why'.) As has been pointed out, there are several other spots that could, also, be polished. In addition to the top of the FP safety, I do the sides as well.

Really not a bad video at all, though! In fact, as I said, one of the best I've seen on YouTube so far. I'd sooner watch your video before I'd waste time sifting through the rest. The world really could use a good, '25 cent polishing job' Glock video; I would encourage you to keep at it. :thumbsup:





PS: Don't forget that Glock recommends BOTH a visual and a tactile examination of the chamber in order to insure the pistol is empty!

Another useful tip might be to remember that you can use the back of a Glock's slide in order to compress the FP spring when you reinstall the spring cups. (Just put the pin in backwards and push down!)

Remember not to allow the edge of the FP spring to press up against either seam in the spring cups, too, OK.

Good job! :cool:
Hey Arc!! Been wondering when you'd show up. I missed ya big guy!:wavey:
Hope theres no hard feelings my friend.

I guess I was too amped up over the production of the cleaning vid to take critisizm AND be humble about it at the same time. Like I said Arc.. I hope its all water under the bridge.

Just so you know Mike (kickedintheballs2000 on youtube... bigdog_3bc on GlockTalk) ment no harm either. He just tries to help me cool my jets from time to time. I really respect the both of you. You really may want to check his videos out some time.

Anyway there were a few spots where I caught myself misnaming a few parts during editing and given I had a 1 hour window to shoot most of the footage I just had to take a stab in the dark on a few parts.

I was seriously going "Arcs gunna say something about that" while editing

Removing the firing pin assembly from the slide....... I couldnt find my flathead!!LOL

Just so you know I did look for a glock tool and couldnt find one on the web ANYWHERE!!!

And which are the 1,2,3 pins??

Ill save that link so I can use it in my dissasembly reassembly video.

Thanks for the kind words on my production. I figured Id try something new with the edited still images outlining the polish points and with the drop downs during polishing.
 

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:) Quite honestly, SS, I think your vids have more potential than 90% of what I've seen, so far, on the web. I really meant it when I said you should stay at it.

Either Lone Wolf Distributors, or Glockparts.com will have an armorer's tool. True Value Hardware (or Sears) also carry long shanked 3/32" drift punches. (What the armorer's tool actually is!) I got my little screwdriver blade from Radio Shack.

The #1 pin is the lock block pin. (The one at the top!) The #2 pin is the trigger pin. (The largest of the three.) The #3 pin is, of course, the trigger mechanism housing pin. (The lowest one down and at the rear of the frame.) The left-to-right disassembly, and right-to-left reassembly protocol is dictated by the easy with which the #2 pin can be reinserted while passing over only one, instead of two, slide stop grooves.
 

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Great video!

I really like how you showed in the insert what part of the part (huh? :supergrin:) you were polishing.

Keep it up!:wavey:
 

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Nice vid. I was bored today and did it to my G36. Will I notice a difference when I shoot it? It does seem alittle different just dry firing. With snap caps of course.
 

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Very helpful looking vid. I'm planning on getting a Wolf 3.5# connector soon this video answer a few questions on how to disassemble my gun. I'll be polishing the other components when I install it.
 
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