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New Glock 20 and looking for help...

13K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  Ladd Gardner 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

Im new to the forum but I have been lurking here for quite a while getting ideas. Anyways I purchased a new G20 about 2 months ago. Love it! But I want to trick it out and modify it a little bit. I will be carrying it occassionally on hunts and wanted a lil more performance.

Anyways heres is what Im thinking:
Threaded kkm barrel with comp
Magwell (but I know the best)
New guiderod and spring (looking for suggestions)
Adjustable iron sights (also looking for suggestion)

I would also like to purchase a seperate longslide from lonewolf, but it seems they havent been getting much positive said about em lately. I was thinking a full longslide setup with comp and a reddot may be cool, but was thinking a kkm barrel with the lonewolf slide would be better.

Anyways let me here your suggestions, looking to get the parts for the factory slide soon. Talked to kkm and they do have an awesome discount for us active duty military folks.

Thanks again, love the info here!
 
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#2 ·
Not trying to wet-blanket things but the main reason for my having a Glock 20sf is because it didn't need gadgets and gizmos. If you are shooting a lot of cast bullets, I could see a standard rifled barrel but adjustable sights?? 'they aren't generally target pistols. From your list of goodies and obvious expectations and budget, you are getting up near the cost of an RIA 10mm 1911 type and one of those would be easier to aftermarket 'till your heart's content. Just on what can be done to 1911 trigger alone over any Glock, makes "paper" accuracy more obtainable.

just my .02 YMMV
 
#3 ·
No problem....but I own a few 1911's and really wanted a g20 tricked a lil to potentially use for a hunting rig. I understand the cost and Im not looking for paper accuracy, I dont compete and just enjoy scenario training and shooting with friends. But I happen to like Glocks and everyone that I have to date is strictly stock with the exception of night sights. I actually have been wanting one of these for this specific purpose. So when I came across this one I decided now is the time. And lets be honest, a g20 tricked is nowhere near the cost of my wilson combat or even my built colt 1911.

Thanks though...got any suggestions on an adjustable set of sights? I really wouldd like to hear some experiences. Like I said all my others are completely stock CCW guns for the most part.
 
#6 ·
If you want get the longslide you can, but you don't need it to drop in a 6" barrel for hunting. I have a LWD 6" barrel (I got a good one, some have complained that LWD has produced some questionable quality barrels) that shoots the same zero as the stock G20 barrel. Like you, I wanted the extra velocity that the 6" barrel provides for hunting. You get a 100fps more velocity with the same 180gr load with the 6" barrel. The long slide is up to you, but you could be opening yourself up to a whole lot of reliability troubleshooting once you do that. As long as you have the patience to work out the bugs, you will be OK, and the long slide will provide you with the advantage of a better sight radius.

I also wanted adjustable sights (mainly for hunting) and tritium night sights for carry, so I chose the Meprolight Tru-Dot tritium adjustable as a compromise. I'm very happy with them. They have been plenty rugged for carry with no problems. Sights are largely a matter of personal preference, so YMMV. The front sight is large, but comes very close to filling the rear dovetail when held at shooting length on the stock G20 slide, so as long as your brain can pick the center of the front sight, they do align very well for accuracy.

The only other things I did to my G20 was a 22lb Wolff spring and steel guide rod set, a 3.5lb trigger connector, and a 25 cent trigger job. It's my favorite pistol. Enjoyable to shoot, very accurate, and 100% reliable for total carry confidence.

Congratulations on the new G20. I hope you have fun getting it the way you want. :cool:
 
#7 ·
TDC20- Thanks man...thats the kind of info I was looking for! I never realized the longslide had a reliability issue, but it makes sense. Im thinking the 6" you suggested sounds like a good plan. Thanks again for the advice. Think I will drop in the longbarrel and see how it goes.
 
#8 ·
TDC20- Thanks man...thats the kind of info I was looking for! I never realized the longslide had a reliability issue, but it makes sense. Im thinking the 6" you suggested sounds like a good plan. Thanks again for the advice. Think I will drop in the longbarrel and see how it goes.
Sorry Dakotaota, didn't mean to give you the impression that the LWD longslide has reliability issues. Plenty of people have them and they appear to work well. What I meant to point out is that the more things you change, the more possibility of issues of reliability, and the harder they are to troubleshoot. Like I said, the extra slide length helps on the sight radius, and if you have any reliability issues, they certainly can be corrected. What I was trying to say is that a drop-in barrel, with nothing else changed, is about as easy to troubleshoot as anything.

There's nothing inherently wrong with a longslide. They are definitely cool. :cool:
 
#9 ·
Sorry Dakotaota, didn't mean to give you the impression that the LWD longslide has reliability issues. Plenty of people have them and they appear to work well. What I meant to point out is that the more things you change, the more possibility of issues of reliability, and the harder they are to troubleshoot. Like I said, the extra slide length helps on the sight radius, and if you have any reliability issues, they certainly can be corrected. What I was trying to say is that a drop-in barrel, with nothing else changed, is about as easy to troubleshoot as anything.

There's nothing inherently wrong with a longslide. They are definitely cool. :cool:

Im pickin up what your putting down...I think a barrel is a first good step. I do think a longslide setup for this gun is also in the very near future....thanks!
 
#10 ·
Hey, man,

If you're looking for a great hunting rig, you may want to contact Robert Bailey at Lone Wolf Distributors. He and I collaborated on a Glock 20 long slide, and I've been very, very happy with it.

Their armorer, "Dan," is a great guy, and he engraved my LWD slide with the Glock markings and added the titanium striker and some other slide parts that make this gun shoot like a dream. I also added a "Ghost Rocket" trigger connector, which comes with a heavier trigger spring and lighter safety plunger spring.

The LWD build also included a heavier (22#) recoil assembly.

I have put several thousand rounds of 180 gr. /1300 fps handloads (Blue Dot 11grs), and have had no problems at all.

I also love the 8 MOA Burris Fastfire III red dot sight. This is the sweetest shooting Glock I've ever owned, and I can't imagine a better hunting pistol.

If you're interested in contacting Lone Wolf Distributors, Bob Bailey (sales mgr) can reference the work done on my order ("Ladd Gardner/Colorado) and you'll know you're going to get a rig that shoots great.

Dan at Lone Wolf did the engraving on the slide (Glock markings), and he did a great job. I had already ordered the KKM 6" barrel, and I didn't see the need of getting it threaded for a compensator or suppressor. The extra 5/8" of an inch would've been too much barrel for my tastes, and made an already VERY long hunter completely unwieldy.

 
#12 ·
Hey, man,

If you're looking for a great hunting rig, you may want to contact Robert Bailey at Lone Wolf Distributors. He and I collaborated on a Glock 20 long slide, and I've been very, very happy with it.

Their armorer, "Dan," is a great guy, and he engraved my LWD slide with the Glock markings and added the titanium striker and some other slide parts that make this gun shoot like a dream. I also added a "Ghost Rocket" trigger connector, which comes with a heavier trigger spring and lighter safety plunger spring.

The LWD build also included a heavier (22#) recoil assembly.

I have put several thousand rounds of 180 gr. /1300 fps handloads (Blue Dot 11grs), and have had no problems at all.

I also love the 8 MOA Burris Fastfire III red dot sight. This is the sweetest shooting Glock I've ever owned, and I can't imagine a better hunting pistol.

If you're interested in contacting Lone Wolf Distributors, Bob Bailey (sales mgr) can reference the work done on my order ("Ladd Gardner/Colorado) and you'll know you're going to get a rig that shoots great.

Dan at Lone Wolf did the engraving on the slide (Glock markings), and he did a great job. I had already ordered the KKM 6" barrel, and I didn't see the need of getting it threaded for a compensator or suppressor. The extra 5/8" of an inch would've been too much barrel for my tastes, and made an already VERY long hunter completely unwieldy.

Dangit, Ladd.... could you please do a full accuracy review at 25/50/75/100 yards? Sweet longslide, bro.
 
#14 ·
... I also wanted adjustable sights (mainly for hunting) and tritium night sights for carry, so I chose the Meprolight Tru-Dot tritium adjustable as a compromise. I'm very happy with them. They have been plenty rugged for carry with no problems. ...
TDC20, I also have the Meprolight adjustable sights recently installed, but the installer I think discarded the writtne info that accompanied the sigh. Looking at the sight, I can tell that the top screw moves the point of impact up when turned counterclockwise; and the right screw moved the point of impact left when you turn in clockwise. However, the marking above the left screw looks like it says "MID" or "MICE" or something.

Questions if you know:

(1) How much do the Up and Left screws move the point of impact either in MOA or in inches at 25 yards, etc... for each click?

(2) What does the left-side "Mice" screw do?

P.S. I know it likely doesn't say "Mice," but that seems funny to me, and I can't think what else it might say.
 
#15 ·
Ladd I love this gun . I sent you a message asking for some help before I saw this but would still love to pick your brains. What's about barrels other than Lone Wolf? Anything you would change if you did it over?
There's really nothing I would change, to be honest.

I think I stumbled on the perfect hunting rig, but it was a pretty unscientific process.

I started out with just the stock Glock 20, and ordered a replacement KKM stainless barrel for the standard OEM length -- one 4 1/8" long -- because I wanted to be able to shoot and reload lead. I opted for the KKM because Lone Wolf won't warranty their barrels if they're going to be used for shooting hand-loads: They only approve factory ammo, and I knew I'd be reloading.

Next, I ordered the 6" KKM barrel, because I wanted the option to hunt with my Glock 20. I wanted the additional velocity, the fully supported chamber, the longer sight radius, the reduced recoil, and the promise of added accuracy, etc.

After shooting the 6" KKM -- and noticing how goofy the barrel looked sticking out the end of the OEM Glock slide -- I decided to go "all in," and I ordered the Lone Wolf "upper," which is a completely custom slide with all the internals (striker, striker channel liner, safety plunger and reduced-weight spring, titanium striker and LWD spring, spring-cups, extractor plunger, yadda, yadda, yadda)

I got the black oxide finish because I didn't want the bright metal slide for hunting applications.

I also ordered the Burris FastFire III sight (which I love). IF I'd consider doing anything differently, now, it MIGHT be to get the Trijicon RMR setup, and have it "slide-melted" into the LWD the same way the Burris was done. I love the Burris, but I think the Trijicon (at $350 more) is a little more rugged and has some nice additional features.

The first image shows the comparison of the KKM barrels and the stock vs. LWD slide.



The second image shows my hunting setup from the rear/side:



The third image shows the LWD slide components with reduced weight titanium striker, etc.



The last image show the view through the Burris sight, with the projected "red dot" at full intensity (which makes it too bright and sort of blurry looking). This is the 8 MOA version -- they offer others -- which means the "dot" appears to be 8" in diameter when superimposed over a target at 100 yds.

You can also see the Ameriglo sights which are co-witnessed to the red dot, incase the battery fails on the Burris unit...



I'm very happy with the accuracy of the extended slide and barrel, but the OEM Glock 20 with the 4" KKM barrel was plenty accurate, too. I think -- if there's any difference in the accuracy of the stock vs. LWD setups -- it's probably owing to the MUCH nicer trigger feel of the LWD longer slide, and that's because of the lightweight striker, etc.

From a bench rest, this gun will create a cloverleaf of overlapping holes at 25 yards about the size of a silver dollar... AT 50 yards, I can comfortably shoot an 8" group, off-hand. I've never shot the gun at 100 yards, and I'd never hunt at that range with any kind of pistol.

It's hard to describe the sensation of shooting the longslide, but the recoil is less ("felt recoil") than my Glock 30 with hot .45 ACP carry loads, and that's even with my hunting loads like Double Tap, Buffalo Bore, etc.

Using "Blue Dot" powder (11gr), this gun develops 1350 fps with 180gr XTP bullets, and it's really fun to shoot -- not punishing at all.
 
#16 ·
Depending on how it fits you, grip reduction from Lane @ Cold Bore Customs could be something to consider. I recently got in the queue have my G20 done. I've always liked the G20 and G21 as they are reliable with good capacity, but they never fit my hand well enough to be a natural pointer. I think the grip reduction is going to be game changer for me and the G20.
 
#17 ·
Ladd...awesome pistol. Love it! Thanks for the info. My lwd 6" barrel just arrived today so I am hoping to play with it a little bit tonight. Thanks for the info again and nice gun!
Let me know how the LWD barrel performs. I have had nothing but great experiences with the company and I love the 6" barrel in the G20. Thanks for your kind words about my long slide. :cool:
 
#18 ·
Depending on how it fits you, grip reduction from Lane @ Cold Bore Customs could be something to consider. I recently got in the queue have my G20 done. I've always liked the G20 and G21 as they are reliable with good capacity, but they never fit my hand well enough to be a natural pointer. I think the grip reduction is going to be game changer for me and the G20.
I agree with you, 100%.

I attacked my G20SF with a Dremel and a Radio Shack soldering iron. Reduced the humps (finger grooves), expanded the distance between them and reshaped the trigger guard to allow a higher hold on the frame. Then did a full stipple and added a Grip Force Adapter beavertail. This frame fits great, now. :thumbsup:
 
#20 ·
Thanks Ladd for the information. That gun looks great. quick question what is the "grip reduction" for the G20 that Short Cut wrote about?
Thanks, buddy.

I think the term "grip reduction" might mean different things to different Glock owners. For me, it meant slightly changing the back strap "hump" on my Glocks.

The Glock has kind of an unusual "hump" on the lower part of its back strap, plus I think Glock grips are just large to start with, especially for people with normal/smaller sized hands. The only Glock I have which fit my hands, perfectly, from the get-go is my Glock 36, single-stack, but it's a pig to shoot. I still carry my G36, occasionally, during the hottest part of the summer (IWB), but I hate shooting it, whereas I love shooting the Glock 30SF.

I have worked on my Glock 30's grip, too, to remove the finger grooves, reshape the grip, so it'd be more comfortable and manageable, plus added a Grip Force Adapter beavertail...

The beavertail improves the grip angle and eliminates (or reduces) the "hump" in the grip. I've never played with a Gen4 Glock, but owners say that the grip is much improved.

 
#23 ·
TDC20, I also have the Meprolight adjustable sights recently installed, but the installer I think discarded the writtne info that accompanied the sigh. Looking at the sight, I can tell that the top screw moves the point of impact up when turned counterclockwise; and the right screw moved the point of impact left when you turn in clockwise. However, the marking above the left screw looks like it says "MID" or "MICE" or something.

Questions if you know:

(1) How much do the Up and Left screws move the point of impact either in MOA or in inches at 25 yards, etc... for each click?

(2) What does the left-side "Mice" screw do?

P.S. I know it likely doesn't say "Mice," but that seems funny to me, and I can't think what else it might say.
I looked at the "Mice" markings under magnification, and I think it says, in two different fonts, "M" and "H3". I think the big "M" is for Meprolight, and the "H3" is for tritium. I couldn't find my paperwork, either, but I don't think the screw on the left side needs to be turned.

You have the directions for the adjustments correct, I believe. Adjust the screw on the right side CCW for right, and CW for left.

I can't really tell you how many turns moves the impact at 25 yards, but I do have a little math that tells me for a G20 sight radius of 6.84" (measured mine with the Meprolights), to move one inch at 25 yards, you would need to move the rear sight by 0.0076". I hope that helps. It's been so long since I zeroed mine, and pretty much everything I shoot out of it uses the same zero, that I forgot what the adjustments were for 25yds.
 
#24 ·
I looked at the "Mice" markings under magnification, and I think it says, in two different fonts, "M" and "H3". I think the big "M" is for Meprolight, and the "H3" is for tritium. I couldn't find my paperwork, either, but I don't think the screw on the left side needs to be turned.

You have the directions for the adjustments correct, I believe. Adjust the screw on the right side CCW for right, and CW for left.

I can't really tell you how many turns moves the impact at 25 yards, but I do have a little math that tells me for a G20 sight radius of 6.84" (measured mine with the Meprolights), to move one inch at 25 yards, you would need to move the rear sight by 0.0076". I hope that helps. It's been so long since I zeroed mine, and pretty much everything I shoot out of it uses the same zero, that I forgot what the adjustments were for 25yds.
I know that my old BoMar adjustables on my G20L were supposed to be 2/5ths of an inch (.4") for each click at 25y... Or very close. I would use that as a ball park figure. Hell, it might have been .4" @ 50y... Hmmmm
 
#25 ·
I looked at the "Mice" markings under magnification, and I think it says, in two different fonts, "M" and "H3". I think the big "M" is for Meprolight, and the "H3" is for tritium. I couldn't find my paperwork, either, but I don't think the screw on the left side needs to be turned.

You have the directions for the adjustments correct, I believe. Adjust the screw on the right side CCW for right, and CW for left.

I can't really tell you how many turns moves the impact at 25 yards, but I do have a little math that tells me for a G20 sight radius of 6.84" (measured mine with the Meprolights), to move one inch at 25 yards, you would need to move the rear sight by 0.0076". I hope that helps. It's been so long since I zeroed mine, and pretty much everything I shoot out of it uses the same zero, that I forgot what the adjustments were for 25yds.
Thanks TDC20 and nickE10mm. I will ignore the left-side screw for now, but I still wonder what it does.
 
#26 ·
Here's a link so you can see some photos.

http://www.coldborecustom.com/
Beautiful work. I'm amazed at how affordable his services are, especially given the quality of the workmanship. I can see why there's a line out the door for his grip work...

When I started working on my Glocks back in the early 2000s, there really weren't many guys doing this, and the few that were wanted a lot of $ for simple grip improvements.

I've done a couple dozen customizations of weapons with polymer frames, and the Glock's nylon6 was one of the easiest/most forgiving to start out with.

I don't see how Lane does the work he does, while charging such modest fees. At a minimum, it takes four/five hours to remove the finger grooves, remove the backstrap hump (requires epoxy fill work, and the epoxy isn't cheap), do a full, 360 degree texturing, paint, etc. Plus, he's paying for the return shipping??

Wow. :wow:

If he'd been available, back when, I'd never have gotten started.

I will say -- for guys who'd like to do simple stuff to make their Glocks more comfortable to shoot (e.g., easing/raising the sharp outside corners on strong-side of the trigger guard) -- that a cordless Dremel and inexpensive Radio Shack soldering iron, plus some fine-grit sandpaper and automotive polish -- can be all the kit you need to improve the comfort and shootability of your polymer-grip weapons.

I have a feeling that Lane is either going to have to raise his pricing, soon, or hire some additional help. The wait times eventually become an issue for customers, I'd imagine.

To bring this back into thread focus, I'll add that grip improvements to the Glock 20 have been pretty key, for me -- especially with the long slide --- because the gun is somewhat nose-heavy, and this makes for trigger guard and grip discomfort, without some enhancements. Hope to get a review from you, when you get your G20 back from Lane.
 
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