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Well beware of people at the Car Dealership who do the back office work. They will try and sell you all sort of unnessary stuff to help you, protect you. Again they too work on a comission basis, if they are good salesmen, they maker big bucks.

Remember I was going to buy a New Nissan Truck, the back office guy works so hard on me trying to sell and extended warranty. I finally said you really think I need this for another $750.00.

He replied yes I recommend this to supplement your factory warranty. I said I think you don't make such a great vechicle, if the factory warranty is not good, and I need to spend another $750.00.

I said I done, I leaving, I will buy something built better. That is not destined to be in the shop. I thought Nissan were dependable. NO I did not buy a Nissan.

Went out and bought an S-10, it was dependable, never had warranty problems, and served me well for years.
 

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Well I'll Be Dipped!!!
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Because everyone knows that car-guys are the best source of the internal financial dealings of captured financial subsidiaries of auto companies!.....
Certainly, they are.

If you wanted the inside info on what was happening with Glock Inc., where would you go to? What would be the best source of info on Glock Inc., if you didn't work for the company? Where would every scrap of information finally find it's way too?

So, yes, the Ford enthusiasts and their associated websites are the best source for information on Ford Credit financing. Just like this place is the best source of information on what's happening in Smyrna GA.

Such sites are as good as it gets, when it comes to information on specific companies and their products.
 

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No flawed. Reality. Cars need repairs and maintenance, and more of both with higher mileage. If you've put serious miles on a vehicle, you would know this.
My wife is a district manager and drives all over the state in her car. She gets a new 4 cyl Honda every couple years and we trade it in when she gets to 225k to 250k miles. We have done this for 15 years and her cars need nothing more than oil, tires, brakes, air filters. No repairs. Ever.

New air bags under warranty once , but we didn’t pay for that.
 

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Let me get this straight... in a world where most new decent vehicles can run for north of 300k miles with only a regular maintenance, you want to get rid of one with 120k and trade it for a new one of the same brand you don't trust past 100k?

It sounds like you're quickly trying to climb out of whatever advantageous position you got into with your new job by incurring much more debt.

The only people who will say this is a good idea are low impulse control "gotta have a shiny new car now regardless of cost" crowd.
Few will get to 300k without likely $$$ repairs. (Unless lots of highway miles) Everyone is not in your situation. I buy used, low miles. (But understand buying new, even a lease can be best option for some)
If you lost confidence in a car (or firearm) get rid of it. Same with tires. I saw weather cracks in decent tread tires in CO car,pickup. Bought new tires ASAP. Because I didn’t trust old ones, concerns about other drivers..


Please list the vehicles that do this. In detail

The average vehicle is driven 13,500 miles a year. That means to get to 300,000 miles, you're looking at a 22.2 year old vehicle.

I guarantee you, there are no vehicles that go 22.2 years and 300,000 miles with only "regular maintenance".
High mile drivers can get lots of miles in short time.
 

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We're not talking about cell phones here. We're talking about assets worth tens of thousands of dollars.

Your thinking like an extended warranty newb. You don't buy them when you buy the car, rolling it into the financing. You buy them, in cash, just before the factory warranty is set to expire. That way if you sell the car before the factory warranty expires, you lose nothing.

I've gotten Ford's ESP, directly from Ford in Dearborn, twice. Averaging right around $1100.00 for an additional 3 years of bumper-to-bumper coverage, on Mustangs 1 & 2.

On Mustang #1 I used it time and time again, it saved me big $$. On Mustang 2 it again saved me some money, but only a little compared to Mustang #1. Mustang #3 I traded in before the factory warranty expired, so I never bought it.

If I keep my current Mustang, I'll do what I've done in the past. I'll call Ford ESP with my card in hand when there's 35,999 miles on it, and get the warranty extended.

If you do it right, it's a great financial tool. Do it wrong, as part of the vehicle purchase, and you're much more likely to get ****ed, or even waste it completely.

This is all about knowledge, and doing your homework. Knowing how, when and from whom to buy one. Including paying extremely close attention to what is covered. If you're smart, by the time the 3 year/36K miles are up, you'll know exactly what the known issues are with your vehicle, and you make damn sure those components are covered. If need be, you get that **** in detailed writing.

And if by the end of year 3, if it turns out your car is the epitome of reliability, and there's no known issues, just skip it altogether. Being a member of a car specific forum is key to that part.
All I know is I’ve never had a vehicle that one of those warranties would have covered jack squat. That’s a fact. I will take my chances and not pay for problems that most likely won’t happen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalko
 

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You lost me at Subaru.....sorry. It's just that every time I'm in a line of slow moving traffic the lead car always seems to ba a Subaru.
 

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Yes there is. The manufacturer subvenes the low apr interest rate. There is no cost to the dealer or the customer.

It comes out of the same marketing budget as the rebates. That is why you will typically see choice of low apr or rebate.



I think you proved my point very well, there is no such thing as a 0% interest vehicle loan without some sort of catch. No matter how good it looks on paper there will always be a catch.
 

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I think you proved my point very well, there is no such thing as a 0% interest vehicle loan without some sort of catch. No matter how good it looks on paper there will always be a catch.
There is marketing budget built in to everything you buy, even the loaf of bread you eat. So I guess you are right.

But the loaf of bread and the car cost the same. Whether you choose to utilize the 0% or not.
 

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Extended warranties are normally a bad idea. But if you can’t save any money. They are a good idea as it reduces chance of a major bill. Friend of my wife fell for extended warranty. I showed her how little it really covered. She had issue. They weaseled out of it. I recalled the “drop provision” told her she had two weeks to get 70% her money back. She did, major transmission failure a month later. But it also would not have been covered. She sold the thing.
 

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You lost me at Subaru.....sorry. It's just that every time I'm in a line of slow moving traffic the lead car always seems to ba a Subaru.

Test drove a Subaru once, as my buddy love his Suburu. It had no get up and go. No power when you floored the gas peddle. Salesman could not stop talking about safety features. I said that I understand this fu****g thing could not get out of the way of my land tortoise sprinting for watermelon. Subura ='s Safe Death Trap.
 

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1. There is a lot ignorance - people asserting that a car can go 200 or 300,000 miles.
Here is the scoop, just using 200,000 miles -

What percentage of cars make it to 200000 miles?
Toyota is the automaker that is most-likely to reach 200,000 miles with 1.7 percent of their vehicles reaching that mark. That's followed by Honda, GMC, Chevryolet, RAM and Ford all above the average of . 8 percent.
2. My dad, two of my brothers and myself all bought a certain model of the Toyota Avalon. 3 got more than 200,000 miles because they kept the cars serviced. Mine still has only 110,000 miles.
3. If the "best" manufacturer has such a "low number" on the road at 200,000, it means that a lot of people on this forum don't take care of their cars, much less the general public.
4. OP (original poster) is not concerned with the long term. He will do a trade-in.
5. If you guys think you squeeze blood out of a turnip, my kid has you beat. I spoke to him yesterday. 2 years ago, he bought a used car made in a
Toyota plant in Oakland, Ca, but sold under an American brand name. He paid $2000. He has put over 80,000 BUSINESS miles on the car. I think the rate is $.55 a mile.
6. Take the price of the used or new car that you would buy. Figure out the first year registration fee over and above what you are paying on your old car. Add that to the sales tax and any cost to get the car up to standard to pass your state's requirements to drive it on the highway - like smog. Add in the first year of additional insurance premium you have to pay over and above what you are currently paying. Now you have a number. I will make one up - $2000. If you incurred or actual repair and serving bill on your current car is less than $2000 a year, in my calculations, you stay with the old car.
 

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1. There is a lot ignorance - people asserting that a car can go 200 or 300,000 miles.
Here is the scoop, just using 200,000 miles -

What percentage of cars make it to 200000 miles?
Toyota is the automaker that is most-likely to reach 200,000 miles with 1.7 percent of their vehicles reaching that mark. That's followed by Honda, GMC, Chevryolet, RAM and Ford all above the average of . 8 percent.
2. My dad, two of my brothers and myself all bought a certain model of the Toyota Avalon. 3 got more than 200,000 miles because they kept the cars serviced. Mine still has only 110,000 miles.
3. If the "best" manufacturer has such a "low number" on the road at 200,000, it means that a lot of people on this forum don't take care of their cars, much less the general public.
4. OP (original poster) is not concerned with the long term. He will do a trade-in.
5. If you guys think you squeeze blood out of a turnip, my kid has you beat. I spoke to him yesterday. 2 years ago, he bought a used car made in a
Toyota plant in Oakland, Ca, but sold under an American brand name. He paid $2000. He has put over 80,000 BUSINESS miles on the car. I think the rate is $.55 a mile.
6. Take the price of the used or new car that you would buy. Figure out the first year registration fee over and above what you are paying on your old car. Add that to the sales tax and any cost to get the car up to standard to pass your state's requirements to drive it on the highway - like smog. Add in the first year of additional insurance premium you have to pay over and above what you are currently paying. Now you have a number. I will make one up - $2000. If you incurred or actual repair and serving bill on your current car is less than $2000 a year, in my calculations, you stay with the old car.
All of the vehicles I've ever bought but one exceeded 200K and the other one would have as well if I wanted to replace the turbo.
 
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Well I'll Be Dipped!!!
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All of the vehicles I've ever bought but one exceeded 200K and the other one would have as well if I wanted to replace the turbo.
You're not an average vehicle user. Far from it.

Normal use vehicles rarely make it much past 100K miles. They're usually used up by then.
 

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Well I'll Be Dipped!!!
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....High mile drivers can get lots of miles in short time.
We're not here sharing attitudes, opinions, information and observations on the 1 in 10,000. We're looking at average use vehicles.
 

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There is marketing budget built in to everything you buy, even the loaf of bread you eat. So I guess you are right.

But the loaf of bread and the car cost the same. Whether you choose to utilize the 0% or not.

It is certainly possible the purchase price of the car is the same whether you take the zero interest loan or pay cash or use your own financing. I will also say I bet it has happened many times before, and am sure a few GT members will even claim they got the lowest price possible (almost bankrupted the dealership) and also got the "free" loan on top. I will not try and tell them they did not - how could I know? How could they even know?


I think you are giving the average person way more credit than they deserve. Maybe you are looking at it through your own eyes - and I think you are a guy that has "been around the block a few times" and understands how to negotiate a good deal on a new vehicle. Believe me you are not the typical buyer.

A sharp savvy buyer may pay the same price - an 18 year old buying his first new car - most likely not. Unless you believe that a car dealership would never take advantage of a novice buyer and they always give them the best deal possible.

Lots of people buy on payment - if they say - I have to be under $500 a month - so the dealer hooks them up with a vehicle and a payment of $499.99. They leave happy -

You think this type of buyer always pays the same with or without a zero % loan?


I will just add - I am sure most zero % loans give the customer the chance at a better deal - they are not a "total rip off" - most times they are a real discount - an over all lower price on the car - a chance to save some money if you finance - but every dealership will certainly try and keep some of this benefit for themselves - by charging a higher price when they can get away with it.

I think the correct answer - do you pay the same price with or without zero % is - it depends.
 

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Well I'll Be Dipped!!!
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....do you pay the same price with or without zero % is - it depends.
This is the point I was making about the Ford Credit 0%. You still get the same huge discounts, and the 0%.
 

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Of the 15 cars I've owned, six were new or very near new. I have purchased only two extended warranties. One I did a little better than break even. The second on a jeep saved me about 7 grand. Good vehicle, had it 14 years, but lots of little issues.
 

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This is the point I was making about the Ford Credit 0%. You still get the same huge discounts, and the 0%.
Like I posted - I bet some do --

I am also 100% sure that a lot of buyers agree to pay more than they otherwise would have - because of the promotion.

A car deal has a lot of moving parts - and a large % of the population are total morons -

OK - in some promotions you can take the zero % loan or get a rebate - but not both -

In these cases - sometimes taking the rebate + a regular loan with interest will give you a better deal - lower overall cost - but some people will not even ask about that - they will just grab the "free" interest - because they are lazy and stupid.

Plus - how do you even know what price you could have gotten if the program was not in effect? You can't - you are just assuming the deal is always the same - and sometimes it is - but sometimes it is not. That is true with GM, Ford, Toyota or anyone else - the dealership is an independent business - they decide the details of the deal.

Say they gave you $18,000 trade in - what would you have gotten if there was no interest free program going on? You can say - well they would never change the trade in amount because of an interest free program - that isn't fair! But we all know that most dealerships will negotiate the best deal they can - and when a special promo is going on they can - and most likely do - adjust things like trade in allowances and best bottom like price because of the promo.

To think otherwise means you don't think a dealership tries to make the best deal FOR THEMSELVES -
 
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