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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My new Burris RT-6 1-6x24mm scope arrived today. I am still waiting on delivery of the extended Aero Precision scope mount I have on order. I ordered the scope from Patriot Firearms USA in Rio Rancho, NM. I really like the smart packaging they shipped it in. (Doctor Foster & Smith affordable quality pet care box). Very discrete, and smart thinking on their part.
This will go on my new AR 15 Build that I finished and posted a few weeks ago. I was fortunate to get a lot of help on the AR build, and also in picking a decent affordable scope from the members here. I plan to order some Butler Creek lens covers for it, as it did not come with any. Since the extended Aero Precision mount is on order I was only able to peer thru it outside today. It seems clear and bright to me(although this is my first variable scope). I really like the reticle, as it is simple, and does not clutter the view, as some of the more "busy" ones I had been considering do.
This will be my first time mounting a scope. I do not own any of the specialty tools like a torque wrench, scope mount levels, etc. I came across a mention of a alternate method of leveling the scope using a plumb bob to line up the vertical cross-hair? Unfortunately, there was no detailed "how to". Logically thinking a small framing square could possibly also work? I don't know how critical it is to get the scope perfectly level? Any help, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Here's the new scope:
Auto part


UPDATE: When I checked my mailbox the extended Aero Precision scope mount was there, The scope was delivered to my door earlier in the day.

:cheers:
 

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I use a feeler gauge to level the scope to the mount. $5 at an auto parts store.
 

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I think you are over complicating things.

Take a level. Level the rifle in a holder. Use the pic rail as a datum and set that level.

Put the scope on. Use the level on one of the flat surfaces (think turret cap) of the scope.

When you start squaring things up, you need to reference a datum.

You can spend a lot of money trying to get 0.01 degree accuracy. Just eyeballing it you can get within a degree. So a level will get you between the two.

I deal with a some customers that get nit picky. They start questioning weather my measurement equipment is "accurate". Max error across 8 inches is 6 microns. And they argue. I have another customer who for weeks has been complaining that a CNC system is only repeatable to 3 microns. And that is likely all in the measurement error. I ask them "what difference does it make" if it is 3, 6 or 12 microns? 12 microns is a little under 5/10000 inch. Not much needs to be more accurate.

Dont over think it. That is typically my job.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you are over complicating things.

Take a level. Level the rifle in a holder. Use the pic rail as a datum and set that level.

Put the scope on. Use the level on one of the flat surfaces (think turret cap) of the scope.

When you start squaring things up, you need to reference a datum.

You can spend a lot of money trying to get 0.01 degree accuracy. Just eyeballing it you can get within a degree. So a level will get you between the two.

I deal with a some customers that get nit picky. They start questioning weather my measurement equipment is "accurate". Max error across 8 inches is 6 microns. And they argue. I have another customer who for weeks has been complaining that a CNC system is only repeatable to 3 microns. And that is likely all in the measurement error. I ask them "what difference does it make" if it is 3, 6 or 12 microns? 12 microns is a little under 5/10000 inch. Not much needs to be more accurate.

Dont over think it. That is typically my job.......

Thanks! Is it necessary to lap the rings on an Aero Precision scope mount?
 

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I’m a tried and true Vortex fan, but I’m considering the RT-6 for the new 12” grendel pistol. I like the 6x mag for those further shots and the reticle as well. Hopefully works out great for you and we’d get a good range report soon! I’m thinking of the combo though with the mount (I know it’s just ‘ok’) and the FF III. I want the FF for the new 10/22 build with integrally suppressed barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m a tried and true Vortex fan, but I’m considering the RT-6 for the new 12” grendel pistol. I like the 6x mag for those further shots and the reticle as well. Hopefully works out great for you and we’d get a good range report soon! I’m thinking of the combo though with the mount (I know it’s just ‘ok’) and the FF III. I want the FF for the new 10/22 build with integrally suppressed barrel.
I would have like to have gotten the FF III, but the combo was more than I wanted to spend due to other pressing issues. I would have used it for a future build, and also could have also used it on my AK. I almost purchased the Burris MTac 1-4x24mm combo package with the skull camo. I found a reconditioned one at a good price, but the extra 2x on the RT-6, and the great price I got from Patriot Firearms USA was too good to pass up. The reticle on the RT-6 at up to 100 yards is pretty fast, but not as fast as the FF III. I will post more on that after I get some range time with it.
 

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How do you do that with a feeler gauge?
Quickie explanation... The bottom of the scope is flat under the turrets and the upper receiver is flat. Use however many feelers it takes to fill the gap between the top of the upper and the bottom of the scope. This method will also work on other rifles if they have a flat one-piece base.
 

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Thanks! Is it necessary to lap the rings on an Aero Precision scope mount?
The vest majority of the time it is not. If you eyeball the rings(top and bottoms together) and don't see any flaws install the bottom half of the rings. set the scope into the bottom rings. If you see no gaps proceed to install the top half of the rings. Do not use all your strength to tighten the screws. Btw you can get a torque screwdriver for $40 at Amazon or a bunch of other places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got it mounted!!!

I got it mounted today. Here's a photo. I wish it was a bit clearer, but the digital camera I use goes thru batteries like crazy, so I was only able to take a couple shots. This was the better of the two photos. It may not be a perfect install, but it looked good to go a different distances.
Gun Firearm Machine gun Clarinet Tárogató
 

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With the RT6 and the generous eye relief, I generally have the back of the scope in front of the charging handle. Does you eyebox line up well with the scope that far back. It looks about 1/2 inch to 1 inch too far back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
With the RT6 and the generous eye relief, I generally have the back of the scope in front of the charging handle. Does you eyebox line up well with the scope that far back. It looks about 1/2 inch to 1 inch too far back.
I do have enough room to move it forward about a 1/2 inch. I am not sure what you are saying about the eye box, as this is my first attempt a mounting a scope. With the adjustable stock in the rear position I have a full clear view. Even with another 1/2 inch, it still won't give me clear access to the charging handle, especially when I add the Butler Creek lens covers.
 

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The eye box is the amount of room you can adjust the scope, wether it be forward or aft and still have a clear view through the scope. If you need to go forward, you might be able to get 1/2” by moving the scope forward in the mount. You may get another 3/8” or so by moving the mount forward another two segments. As long as the mounting hardware still encapsulates the receiver, you are good.

I turn the scope to its highest setting, with the stock on the 3rd setting out and adjust the scope to get a clear target view.

There are other mounts that have a greater cantilever distance. I prefer these quite a bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Aero Precision makes another extended scope mount with a 2" extension forward. This one has a 1" forward extension. I will watch for a deal on the 2" extension. I am as far forward on the receiver rail as I can go. I was trying to avoid going forward onto the handguard rail because I thought the separation between the two might throw the scope off? It feels a bit barrel end heavy. I am not sure if that is a benefit?

PS. I have seen some charging handles that extend out, which might work
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had today off, and have put the rifle to bed for the night. I will get it out again and check out how much forward I can move the scope in the mount, and if it will give me better charging handle clearance. I will research extended charging handles this week, and any recommendations will definitely be considered. I also need to get a carrying case for it. I have a old UTG soft case for my AK with the velcro straps inside to hold it in place. But I think my AR would be better served with a hard case since I won't be removing the scope between range trips. I am a bit tapped out with the recent SUV repairs, which is still ongoing (new tires coming later this week). So I am looking for a inexpensive hard case just to keep it from getting banged around between home and the range. Right now it just has a gun sock protecting it, which is a PIA.
 

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How I determine how far forward or back to mount the scope....

1. if you have adjustable stock...put it where you find it comfortable (look up setting length of pull)
2. Make sure rifle not loaded. This is important. Zoom scope to max (minimum eye box)
3. Lay rifle down where you can get it.
4. Close eyes.
5. keep eyes closed.
6. pick up rifle and shoulder it. make sure your cheek is where you would shoot.
7. open eyes. scope should have entire lens with clear image. If not move forward or rear until the image fills the lens.

you can look up how close your nose should be to charging handle when you shoulder rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Made it to the range today :)
Well, I made it to the range today to try out my new AR build, and my new Burris RT-6 scope.
This week I checked to make sure I had the correct length of pull, and also moved the scope another 1/2" forward on the mount to get better access to the charging handle. Also I used a laser sight to try to get the zero close on the scope. Apparently I did something wrong as I ended up off paper and way below the target today at the range. I didn't have a bench rest, so I steadied the rifle the best I could. I used up a 30 round mag getting it zeroed. After that, I shot at the four fresh smaller corner targets to see how close my groups were. I was shooting at the 25 yard indoor range without a bench rest standing. I initially shot three round groups at each of the four targets, and then came back a placed two more rounds on each. When I checked my groups they fell between 1 1/4" to 2". I wore my prescription glasses which did not work so well. Next time I will just bring my shooting glasses. I don't need glasses to see distance. I shot 100 rounds total today, and my rifle functioned perfectly. I was using some Federal 223 REM 55 grain ammo. I probably could have done slightly better with some 556 62 grain. I had let one of the employees at the range check out the scope for level, and he thought it was canted, and took it back to adjust it. I think it came back canted to the right, and told him I thought I had it closer. I have adjusted it again, and it looks closer to me than it was today at the range. Also he smudged up the eye piece lens, which I thought was just my vision caused by my glasses. I was told to adjust my zero so my groups were 1" below the bulls eye, which I did? Since this was my first trip to the range with my AR and new scope, I don't have anything that I can compare my groups with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ordered a set of Butler Creek popup lens covers for the scope today. Also got in 1150 rounds of ammo last week, so I am ready for the next trip to the range. I got a bit of a mix of ammo, just to see which I like best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Received and installed my Butler Creek scope lens covers. I am hoping they will keep the lenses clear. Also received the LaRue MBT S2 tactical two stage trigger I ordered, but haven' installed it yet. I will try to do it tomorrow. It is certainly very well made. I am impressed. Hoping to get it in so I can take it to the range on Monday. I am not sure if they will be open, but if they are they will probably close early.
 
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