Need help with G34 Gen5

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Paul73, Oct 21, 2020.

  1. -JCN-

    -JCN-

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    I use 11# springs for a dot Glock and weak competition ammo. Works like a champ. It’s a pretty typical thing for competition guns using minimum power ammo to go down on spring stiffness like @OdinIII said.
     
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  2. harold63

    harold63 I'm not retired

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    The Red Army 124 gr is the one that's got a PF of 140. That's got to get you a full cycle which is why you're prolly having no issues with it. Since the RSA in the Gen 4's and 5's are progressive, you can get ejections and short strokes in the same cycle. The Venom must not be loaded to the FPS it advertises or you simply got a bad batch of it. Hopefully I'm correct in saying the slide needs the full length of the cycle, from bottoming to battery, to reliably feed the next round. It's more important for the slide to fully cycle to the rear so it has time to gain speed to pick up the next round and push it in the chamber. The slide off a short stroke, even with the stronger spring, may not get that 'speed' needed to chamber the next round. At any rate, hope the lighter springs work for you.
     
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  3. Paul73

    Paul73

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    It all boils down to the price of ammo, Red Army at its 66c per round is not excessively high, but, well... Looking at 1000 rounds bulk with a $628 price tag on it, for a competition grade range rounds - it is quite insane. I realize prices may never go down now to what it was, but, still, I still need some time to get used to that new reality, if it is to stay.
    May be will buy a reloading gear and wil start reloading 9mm - i would never even think of doing that before...
     
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  4. harold63

    harold63 I'm not retired

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    I've paid high prices for ammo, before. At one time or another, we all do. I look at it like 'is it going to make or break me in the long run?'. Once in a while, no, but if it's every time I gotta buy it, I have to just shoot less.
     
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  5. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    Dang, that’s high. You can still find ammo here in Georgia for decent pricing ($.25 per) if you can go get it when you see the Facebook post.

    By the reloading stuff. It’s a nice skill to have and it helps in uncertain times. I didn’t even try to stock up and have a couple years worth of components for competition or a couple lifetimes worth if the world goes to crap.

    I do well with cheap Lee stuff but I had some trouble figuring out it’s peculiarities when I went progressive. I also had years of single stage under my belt.
     
  6. Paul73

    Paul73

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    The 66c per round is the online price. Locally here in MA, NH - most vicinity here is ALL sold out, wallmarts are sold out, what is available is usually about of a $1 per round and they only give one 20 round box per customer. $1 per round i am not doing.
     
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  7. Joe Cocksman

    Joe Cocksman

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  8. Paul73

    Paul73

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    I have a different one on my sig - this one is a green laser rechargeable unit, $72 on Amazon. I did not expect much, but, so far it keeps zero fine.
    I used blue loctite on all bolts, of course. So far it sits very well on the glock’s plastic rail - i like it. Button is right under the end of index finger, feels natural.
    Case is made from solid aluminum- they do not have it in the description and I think earlier models were plastic.

    https://www.amazon.com/Ade-Advanced...n+laser&qid=1603542388&sprefix=ade+gre&sr=8-3
     
  9. biscut53

    biscut53

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    I picked up a Blue Label Gen5 G34 a few months ago. I checked my count (I do keep accurate records) and I have 900 rounds so far. I post this because all 900 have been Wolf 115gr which besides filthy dirty it is also rather weak. No issues for me so far. I am using 17 round magazines; two are old clinton ban-era weak spring mags and one is a new tight mag spring. So far no issues to speak of. Hope this helps.

    IMHO you shouldn't need to change spring weight on a Glock 9mm. Did you try to take off the laser or light device you have on there? Just to see if there is a difference.
     
  10. Paul73

    Paul73

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    I posted above in the thread- yes, a removal of red dot improved cycling. Laser is on the rail, not on a slide.
    I am getting 2 50x boxes of wolf 115gr today, will test it next week.

    I also suspect new 10 rd mags to be a part of the problem- those new gen5 mags have really stiff spring in them. I will test it with my old preban ones and new ones, will see.
     
  11. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    The mags definitely exasperate the issue. My primary 34 would choke 3 or 4 out of 5 times with a tightly packed +6 mag.
     
  12. Paul73

    Paul73

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    hi, update 10/25 - i just went over the 50 rounds of that wolf 115gr without a single issue. cycles fine. then tried 5 rounds of venom - got stuck after 2nd round. so, it seems it is indeed a bad batch of vemon - perhaps - as it seems wolf 115gr works fine with stock spring.
     
  13. ScipioAfricanus

    ScipioAfricanus

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    Okay, is the consensus now that if we use ammunition from a reputable manufacturer - Federal, Hornady, Winchester, Remington, Underwood, BuffaloBore, etc - then we shouldn't have any problems with the G34.5?

    And if we do have problems with the G34.5, then is the consensus that first we should simply increase the grainage of the bullets [at the expense of losing FPS of speed]?

    With mechanical changing of parts being the last resort?

    Thanks.
     
  14. Paul73

    Paul73

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    I would say that a minimum of a 124gr ammo is needed to break in a brand new slide. Then - tbd
     
  15. Paul73

    Paul73

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    so, a of a TDB - seems like after first 500 rounds through this slide it is finally broken in and it just ate with no glitches a full 17 rd mag worth of Venom 115gr rounds with no issues. go figure. it is not the same box of venoms that was acting up on me initially, but, go figure. i still going to experiment with replacement springs, as it did not cost prohibitively much - a $30 for a rod and a $9 per a spring - so, will see how it will feel with a lighter spring.
    but, to some folks who were sure of G34 to be able to cycle on a 115gr - it does, now, broken in and cleaned/oiled properly. i am as happy as a clam. :) feels real good.
     
  16. ScipioAfricanus

    ScipioAfricanus

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    Okay, I'm seeing only one round at the Wolf website which matches those specs:

    Steel Cased Ammo
    9mm Luger (9x19), 115 gr, Bimetal, FMJ, Berda, 1234 fps
    http://wolfammo.com/steel-casing.html

    115 gr & 1234 fps would make for roughly 389 ft-lbs at the muzzle, which would be at least moderately "warm" for a 9mm round, if not outright "hot".

    There are lots of heavy but cool rounds which don't make all that many ft-lbs, I guess because the volume needed for a heavier round robs the bullet maker of the volume which he otherwise would have used for more gun powder, and because when you look at the energy calculation, 1/2 * m * v^2, the velocity dominates the mass.

    Last night, I was looking through the Federal catalog, and I was seeing lots of "fat but slow" rounds, some even below 300 ft-lbs of energy:

    Do you think those "fat but slow" rounds, at rather low energies, would properly cycle the long slide on the Gen5 G34?

    Or would you be expecting a bunch of jams & stovepipes & whatnot?

    Thanks!
     
  17. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    Let’s not make too much of this. There isn’t anything wrong with the pistol. It’s impossible to make a pistol perfectly sprung that works with weak to strong loads and with a naked slide or heavy red dot sight.

    The load that failed in my 34’s was a 147 JHP at 870-890 FPS. That was after I added the dot. I don’t remember any failures with me shooting before adding the dot but I probably only shot it <1000 rounds in Production.

    You really just have to try it and see. Everyone’s grip is a little different and that can make a big difference when something is operating at the edge of spec.
     
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  18. Paul73

    Paul73

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    So, 2 things. Even the weakest round has enough energy to potentially rip gun apart if bullet will stuck in a barrel.
    An ability to cycle the slide if a factor of a duration of time while pressure of gases in the barrel is high enough to press the whole slide assembly backward. The faster your bullet exits the barrel- the shorter that time is.

    it is just, well, unusual for Glocks not to cycle even on a lighter ammo. And, you could see, the G17 was ok with any ammo from brand new. A heavier G34 had to take some wear to work off edges to begin cycle ok with venom. That’s all.
    And, yes, I tested it with a heavy hollow point ammo too and it was fine. Obviously, I am not going to shoot paper with such rounds, ever, but, it surely worked fine.
     
  19. Paul73

    Paul73

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    Also, it is quite possible that I may had a bad sub par box of venoms. I just saw a review of wolf rounds - a guy went over 2 50x boxes fine, then bought a 1000 bulk and it was not even ejecting properly. I just went over 350 rounds of wolf 115gr fine without a glitch, other than been crazy dirty - no issues at all. Go figure.

    now, I have 3 boxes of those venoms left and going to go through them all next.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2020
  20. Paul73

    Paul73

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    I agree with a 'grip first' - but - i also suspect the new gen5 coating was probably a bit too abrasive on a brand new gun and it was the core of the issue.

    i just put back a G17 slide and did some dry firing cycles - it has much less wear, i had it for longer but somehow did not use too much - may be went over only 200-250 rounds total with it - it is still pretty much mostly solid black all around with a smile on the barrel just starting to appear - i wiped it all clean for test and just by hand moving the slide i can feel it takes more force to make it begin to move than a G34 slide now that went over 500+ rounds. then swapped springs - same thing.

    i suspect the coating at the barrel front top notch rubbing at the internal coating inside of the slide is the major culprit - and the barrel rubbing point also all together just add too much friction.

    after enough cycling as all this coating got partially removed or thinned just enough at contact points - it all started to move like it should move.

    which starts making more sense now in the light of the official gen5 glock recommendation - to wipe gun totally dry clear from all stock factory lube before the first firing. may be if i would not oil it initially at all - it would take faster to rub off all the coating excesses at friction points, go figure.