Home > Political & Other Important Issues > Leisure > HobbyTime > Through-the-Lens Club > My first real attempt at photography... (Not 56K friendly)

My first real attempt at photography... (Not 56K friendly)

  1. So... I'm looking for some critiques, constructive criticism of sorts.

    The camera used was a Nikon D40X.

    For the following shots a Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6 was used.

    Taken at Ohiopyle, in Fayette County Pennsylvania, I think this is the best shot... although a little too bright.


    Same place, a picture of the falls:


    Fire picture, back at camp:


    Motion shot, utilizing the 3 frames per second feature:




    These two images were taken with a Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D:



    Not really a fan of the way the focus fell on those two images. How can I improve the focus and pull the whole serial into the focus area?

    Thanks for looking.

  2. I like the fire picture.
    On your question about the last two, what was your f-stop? You are using a tripod? Put your f-stop to at least f8 to get more detail in focus.
  3. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/smstrick69/testnature.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>


    I doctored this up a little and changed up a little on the brightness and the contrast. Compare it to the original and tell me what you thing. :)


    This retouched image is very much more better! :thumbsup: Did you use photoshop to do it?
  5. The f-stop was set to 32, the only setting that will work with the camera, it seems. I can't figure it out?

    And I did not use a tripod... as The end of the camera len must be a mere 6-8 inches from the object in focus to take a picture that clear.
  6. The first photo was taken at @150mm focal length, but the speed used was 1/125s (relatively slow for that focal length), which resulted in a slight movement blur.
  7. To get rid of that bright, washed out look in the first shot a circular polarizer is what you need (not LINEAR!). It is a special kind of dark glass filter and it will cost you a couple of f/stops but it eliminates the glare and puts the blue back in the sky.

    On the fire, I would have liked to see the top of the flame and less of the dark along the bottom. That is just a preference and your way is fine! :)
  8. I do have to pick up some lens filters/polarizers... I did realize that as soon as I saw how bright it was.

    And MissKitty... they aren't as good but...


  9. They are PLENTY good. Especially for a first attempt! :)

    Anybody got any marshmallows? :supergrin:
  10. Your 2 serial number pictures were taken at f/5 according to the embedded data. That should have been good enough I would think, except when taking pictures that close, there is very limited depth of field. If you would have shot the pictures exactly straight on or used a bigger f/number they would have been in focus across the entire frame.

    On Nikons, the lens has to be set to f/32 because the apeture is adjusted electronically in the body. I don't know how to set the apeture on the D40x. Set the mode to A and check the manual to find how to change the apeture. You will need a tripod also because the shutter speed will drop.

  11. It is a Kodak program that came with my camera. I downloaded it and use it to enhance and alter pictures. I'm not sure exactly what the program is , because I did'nt even doanload it to my computer. It was a gift, and they set it up for me, But I do know that it is a Kodak / Photo program.
  12. Try using Picasa(free from Google) for simple color/contrast improvements like in the first picture. It works great and has a small learning curve. It also has a button to reveal simple exif data(the fstop, shutter speed, etc.) We can read your data with Opanda software (also free).
    This is the kind of EXIF data Opanda reports on the last picture:

    Model = NIKON D40X

    Exposure Time = 1/60"
    F Number = F5
    Exposure Program = Not defined
    ISO Speed Ratings = 200
    Exif Version = Version 2.21
    Date Time Original = 2007-06-16 18:02:36
    Date Time Digitized = 2007-06-16 18:02:36
    Components Configuration = YCbcr
    Compressed Bits Per Pixel = 4
    Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
    Max Aperture Value = F4.92
    Metering Mode = Pattern
    Light Source = unknown
    Flash = Flash fired, auto mode, return light detected
    Focal Length = 60mm
    Maker Note = 27248 Byte
    User Comment =
    Subsec Time = 0.50"
    Subsec Time Original = 0.50"
    Subsec Time Digitized = 0.50"
    Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
    Color Space = sRGB
    Exif Image Width = 3872
    Exif Image Height = 2592
    Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 28100
    Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor
    File Source = DSC
    Scene Type = A directly photographed image
    CFA Pattern = [G,B],
    Custom Rendered = Normal process
    Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
    White Balance = Auto white balance
    Digital Zoom Ratio = 1x
    Focal Length In 35mm Film = 90mm
    Scene Capture Type = Normal
    Gain Control = None
    Contrast = Normal
    Saturation = Normal
    Sharpness = Normal
    Subject Distance Range = unknown

    [MakerNote (Nikon)]
    Makernote Version = 0210
    ISO Speed Used = 200
    Colour Mode = COLOR
    Quality = FINE
    White Balance = AUTO
    Sharpening = AUTO
    Focus Mode = MANUAL
    Flash Setting = NORMAL
    Auto Flash Mode = Built-in,TTL
    White Balance Bias Value = 0
    White Balance Red, Blue Coefficients = 453/256, 340/256, 256/256, 256/256
    000D = 00, 01, 06, 00
    Exposure Diff = 8F, 01, 0C, 00
    ThumbOffset = 2694
    Flash Compensation = 00, 01, 06, 00
    ISO Speed Requested = 200
    Tone Compensation (Contrast) = AUTO
    Lens Type = 2
    Lens Min/Max Focal Length, Max Aperture = 600/10, 600/10, 28/10, 28/10
    Flash Used = Flash Fired
    Auto Focus Area = 00, 00, 00, 00
    Bracketing & Shooting Mode = 1
    008A = 2
    008B = 54, 01, 0C, 00
    Colour Mode = MODE3a
    Lighting Type = SPEEDLIGHT

    The serial numbers are out of focus simply because they are tilted and not in the same plane. As mentioned above, the depth of field is very shallow at f5, but macro lenses also has a very narrow plane of focus.