My first Polymer 80 Build - Coyote Brown

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by twr3cks, Jan 10, 2018.

  1. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    I wanted to start a separate thread for my first Polymer 80 build. I say first because before I'd even started, I'd ordered multiple colors of frames. Thinking that I'd want to make one of them all. I was a little skeptical going in, but like a lot of folks, I'd seen a gazillion YouTube videos and figured "Hell, if they can do it, I can do it". Right?



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    To do the milling I used a dremel, hand files, a drill, and sand paper. The drill was used ONLY to drill the pin holes. I never even opened the milling bit. I don't have a drill press so it wouldn't have helped me much. I first started to take down the tabs with a file, this was taking a bit too long so I broke out the dremel. Within 5 minutes, all 4 of the top tabs were down, close to the frame. Then I finished those off with files and sand paper. Also, I'd read and heard about people using 2000 grit with WD-40, so I finished off the tops with that as well. The top portion was ridiculously easy to be honest.

    The barrel seat portion, or whatever that's officially called, was a little trickier. My dremel didn't have a long enough post to get it in there without risking damaging the sides so I busted out my pocket knife and seriously just cut it out, scraping it into a rough U shape. Then I wrapped a punch in sand paper and went to town. That took the longest by far. Not a whole lot of room to maneuver using what I had, so I had to just take my time. All in all, the first round (yes there was more than one round) took legitimately about an hour of actual work time. I'm not counting the time I had to spend looking for tools that my daughters have borrowed and didn't put back in their place, as well as the cussing involved.

    So I get it done that night, install the upper parts kit into the Shadow Systems slide, install the Faxon barrel, and then start working on the lower parts. Now I've never done this, however I have assembled many AR's and felt comfortable installing a lower parts kit. Most of the parts went in without issue, EXCEPT the rear rails. For the life of me, I couldn't get the rear rails to line up perfectly. It just seemed like on the right side of the frame, it was off, ever so slightly. I WAS able to get all of the pins in, with a little help from one of the aforementioned daughters (who's going to start her build next). I have a G23 and G19, so I knew that if I had any questions on where things go, or how they go, I had google, youtube, and my "REAL" Glocks on the table.

    Once I got all the pins and the rest of the kit installed, I dropped the slide on and started to cycle the slide. Here's where I ran into issues. So first, it just seemed to drag quite a bit in the front, felt like guide rod and spring, so I took it apart, sanded it down a bit more, and put it back together, NEXT it wouldn't reset the trigger. I remembered seeing a YouTube video of a guy that had the same problem, and the fix he applied. So I took the lower apart again, and applied that fix. I'll post a link to that video here too.Since I had it all apart, I put the rear and front rails onto a diamond stone to sand down any high spots, saw that on a video too, I'll look for the link.

    Oiled everything back up and put it all back together. Trigger reset issue fixed! But it was still dragging. It would cycle about 90% of the time just fine, but if I "rode" the slide forward, or cycled very slow, it would get caught. I took it apart again and noticed small burs, or material in the guide-rod/spring area. Not only that, but there were a couple times that the take down lever got stuck and once even fell out! At first I thought that I just didn't do a perfect job milling that area, so I sanded some more. While I was sanding, I went back to youtube/google.

    Found a video from a guy having the same problems, turns out, his take down lever spring wasn't flush enough and was causing the guide rod and spring to drag on it, even getting caught and causing his take down lever to fall out! Voila! Watched THAT video, adjusted the spring and installation and BAM! Problems fixed. I put it all back together, cleaned everything up and then proceeded to cycle it about 1 gazillion times. Then I loaded a magazine with snap caps and ran through cycling, reloading etc to TRY to get it to jam. So far nothing.

    I have this Friday off and will be taking her to the range to run some rounds through her. I'm pretty confident that she'll run smooth but this will be the first test. I'll post links to the vids in casesomeone else has the same issues. Overall, I'm much more confident and ready to start the next build. My REAL Glock is still my EDC, but making these is fun and so far rewarding. Here's the parts list for the first build:

    Frame - Polymer 80 / Coyote Brown Brownells exclusive
    Lower Parts Kit - Brownells
    Barrel - Faxon Arms, flame fluted and threaded
    Sights - Ameriglo Spaulding
    Slide - Shadow Systems G19 Carry Slide
    Upper Parts Kit - Brownells


    Youtube on sanding rails

    Takedown lever and spring drag issue

    Trigger reset issue

    Range test on 12/22/2017 - 350 rounds. 2 FTE's. Not too worries about that as some of the ammo was 4 years old and pretty crusty, plus we're talking a brand new barrel and slide. Will be running again this weekend (01/13/208) and will post results

    PS. A couple quick notes. The EXTENDED mag release that comes in the kit is way too large for these frames (IMO). I swapped the oem mag release from my G23 to the Polymer80 frame and then put that one on the G23. Perfect fit both ways for me.

    PSS. I don't have a suppressor, I bought a threaded barrel, simply for looks and MAYBE, I'll look at a suppressor or a comp for fun later down the road. Figured since I was going for a "custom" type build, I'd make it fun. In hindsight, the threaded barrel is cool and all, but I need to figure out how to get the thread protector to stay on. Seems after cycling, it works itself loose. I'm sure there is some type of o-ring that I don't have yet, or need, etc. Any suggestions welcome.
     
  2. Robert Funk

    Robert Funk

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    Great writeup! Thanks for the info on the reset issue. I noticed my V2 build has that issue. I'm going to fix it now. My last build, 940C, had a ton of burrs all over that rear rail insert. It was rediculious!
    I contacted Polymer 80 and let them know.
     

  3. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    Right on, glad it helped! If you need assistance or have any other issues, let me know, maybe I can help, etc. P80's CS is pretty awesome too. Calling them is fastest.
     
  4. glock-fan

    glock-fan

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    That's normal, all that I've seen have them.
     
  5. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    I filed, sanded and polished mine smooth, before I even tried to install them.
     
  6. joeG26er

    joeG26er Millennium Number 1143 Millennium Member

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    @twr3cks - how's your build running now?
     
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  7. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    Running perfect, got about 500 rounds through it now not one issue!
     
  8. joeG26er

    joeG26er Millennium Number 1143 Millennium Member

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    What was the trigger reset issue and how would you compare to a stock gen3?
     
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  9. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    Ok trigger reset issue was easily fixed. Basically when I pulled the trigger, it would go back as expected but NOT reset!! The issue was resolved by filing and sanding down the rear rail where the trigger bar rides (non technical explanation).

    In comparison to my stock G19 and stock G23, the trigger feels exactly the same. All of my Glocks have the same stock trigger setup. I like it that way, I always know what to expect.

    As far as how does the gun feel and shoot compared? Well a couple things to note:

    My Polymer 80 builds (2 of them) both have aftermarket match barrels, so I feel that especially with this one (Coyote), I'm more accurate. This could be me too, as the sights on t his gun are my favorite and I actually am working on swapping ALL of them to this set.

    The grip angle on the P80, I like it better than the stock Glocks. I don't dislike the OEM grip per se, but I feel that this rides better in my hands, and when shooting, again, I feel more accurate.

    Frame materials - While I have no complaints on the frame material (the polymer that was used) I feel that there is a difference in feel. I don't know how to explain it, but I don't feel that the exact same polymer was used. That may make absolutely no sense at all, but that's all I can equate the feeling to. I don't know that it matters at all, but I'd love to actually do a build and run it through some of the famed torture tests to see how it holds up. I've heard great things, and don't really have any concerns, I'd just like to do it for my own curiosity.

    Grip stippling - I have both the standard, and the "Brownells Exclusive - Aggressive" textures. I personally like the "Aggressive" texture better so far. My daughter who has shot both of them, prefers the standard texture and I've had one of my buddies shoot both and he agrees. Maybe he has ****** hands, I don't know. but I prefer the more "Agressive" it actually feels softer to me.

    Rail - I enjoy the standard picatinny rail, however it doesn't matter much simply because the light I bought came with a Glock insert so it's a moot point, but going forward, adding new lights, etc it may matter.

    Overall ergos - Love them. Absolutely love them. I think P80 did a bang up job on these frames.

    Hope that helps! Let me know if you have additional or specific questions I've missed. I'm building a gray frame now with RDS, and then will be building a sub compact.
     
  10. Christian Wolff

    Christian Wolff

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    Nice write up. I have always used all OEM parts on my Poly 80 builds because I feared dealing with some of these obstacles. Nice job!!
     
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  11. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    Thanks! I used all Glock internals, but the slides have been different. While I really enjoy the aftermarket slides, part of me wishes I'd gone with OEM, just so that all of my "babies" matched. I actually put up the Shadow Systems slide for trade in another forum. Even though it's more expensive than the OEM. I'm ADD when it comes to stuff matching sometimes. If I have to live with it I will of course. This Coyote build though, has become my EDC and bedside gun. Which is saying alot because for the past 7 years it was my 19
     
  12. glock-fan

    glock-fan

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    Since you are running aftermarket barrels have you noticed any excessive wear or gauging at the base of the barrel ? just curious cause it seems like a common issue. How many rounds have you shot?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    I have not noticed anything like that. 500 through the Coyote and 250 through the OD green
     
  14. helidude350

    helidude350

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  15. helidude350

    helidude350

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    tfe thread tape to keep thread protector, flash hiders, muzzle brakes etc. from coming loose
     
  16. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    Instead of thread tape I've been using clear nail polish. It holds good enough for a range session and isn't incredibly ridiculous to remove for cleaning sessions, etc. I had used loctite at first but that was a major pain to get off!
     
  17. Akg1911

    Akg1911

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    [​IMG]

    Thats my build, posted the details on the main glocking forum :)
     
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  18. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    Love it, is that the RMR on top?
     
  19. twr3cks

    twr3cks

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    I'll have to post some updated pics of mine as well. New barrel with a deep crown, makes a world of difference in look, etc. The barrel in my pics will now be going to the gray build!
     
  20. Akg1911

    Akg1911

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    Yes it is. Bought a used type 1 online
     
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