[stevehof]

I’ve been working on tuning the trigger pulls on my Glocks. I’ve been through the following connectors, OEM #5, OEM #3.5, Scherer #3.5 and Lone Wolf #3.5 (LWD). The stock OEM breaks with less ‘noticeable’ travel but it was too heavy for my tastes. The OEM #3.5 is lighter to pull but has more noticeable travel. The Scherer feels to me about like the OEM #5 because it stacks a little at the end of the pull. The Lone Wolf is noticeably lighter with about the same even travel as the OEM #3.5. However, I had to go through three LWD connectors to find one that worked well. The first did double taps in my 2nd generation G20 with older style trigger bar. The second LWD’s reset tab was so long it was difficult to re-install the slide without resetting the trigger before the slide was all the way on (G35). The third LWD #3.5 connector I tried worked like a charm and is now living in my G35. I put another LWD #3.5 in my G23 and it works like a charm too.

I think the LWD gets its reduced pull in two ways. First, it has a slightly longer reset nub. I think the reset nub cams the connector back a bit more than the stock connector so it reduces the friction between the connector and the trigger bar? Second, the LWD connector’s vertical arm is cut down or slightly ‘skeletonized’ which would also reduce the tension against the trigger bar a little.

The second thing I noticed while working with my Glocks’ triggers is that the amount of engagement of the striker leg with the cruciform makes a huge difference in the quality of the trigger pull. My oldest G20 had minimal engagement when using the older trigger bar and it had a wonderfully crisp pull. Unfortunately, it also wouldn’t ignite WW LP primers about 5% of the time. When I put the latest trigger bar (marked 4256-1 on the top of the cruciform) in the G20 I had 100% primer reliability but longer travel on the trigger. The 4256-1 trigger bar has a longer top part of the cruciform (sear) so the striker is cammed back further even before you start the trigger pull. The striker/cruciform engagement on the new trigger bar just happened to be more like 60-80% while the older trigger bar was more like 30-50% engagement.

It looks to me like the key to a nice ‘smooth’ trigger, beyond the obvious 25 cent trigger job polishing is minimal safe cruciform to striker engagement and less outward spring tension on the connector. BTW, I looked at my cruciforms with a 10X loupe and did a small amount of stoning with a very fine stone to make sure the top part was smooth. The middle section (sear) of the cruciform is angled so that only the top portion contacts the striker leg. Comments or suggestions from experienced trigger tuners welcome…;^) Do any of you guys ‘bend’ the sear part of the cruciform down a tad to reduce trigger travel?

 

[TimWarner]

careful bending the cruciform down. I got doubles doing this once. Never tried it with live ammo, but if I pulled the trigger and held it, when I racked the slide the striker dropped again.

When you're working on your trigger, always try this before putting in live ammo. Sometimes if you make a mistake this is the safest way to find out. It might not work all the time to catch mistakes, but any chance is better than none.

 

[stevehof]

Originally posted by TimWarner
careful bending the cruciform down. I got doubles doing this once. Never tried it with live ammo, but if I pulled the trigger and held it, when I racked the slide the striker dropped again.

When you're working on your trigger, always try this before putting in live ammo. Sometimes if you make a mistake this is the safest way to find out. It might not work all the time to catch mistakes, but any chance is better than none.

Thanks for the tip, a very good safety check...

 

[Guest]

IMO, the LWD connector is not quite as it should be yet. I have had several conversations with them. The material is still a bit too thick. Trigger pull weight is determined by the degree of angle the connector has. I won't go into the fact that Glock uses three different suppliers of trigger bars. Altering the angle will make the pull lighter, but longer. The softest connector was the old Alchemy. The trigger pull was very long.
After having done hundreds of Glock triggers I have pretty much settled on the Scherer. They are half the cost of a Glock 3.5 with a somewhat crisper pull.
If you use the search function you find where I tested all of the connectors.
My G21 has the "short tab" trigger bar. I am yet to have a light strike even using a reduced power spring with the heavy stock striker.
My competition Glocks have a 1 1/4 lb. pull.
Do not bend the trigger bar tab down. You are asking for a full auto Glock if you do.

 

[Iceman 27]

Originally posted by Joe D
IMO, the LWD connector is not quite as it should be yet. I have had several conversations with them. The material is still a bit too thick. Trigger pull weight is determined by the degree of angle the connector has. I won't go into the fact that Glock uses three different suppliers of trigger bars. Altering the angle will make the pull lighter, but longer. The softest connector was the old Alchemy. The trigger pull was very long.
After having done hundreds of Glock triggers I have pretty much settled on the Scherer. They are half the cost of a Glock 3.5 with a somewhat crisper pull.
If you use the search function you find where I tested all of the connectors.
My G21 has the "short tab" trigger bar. I am yet to have a light strike even using a reduced power spring with the heavy stock striker.
My competition Glocks have a 1 1/4 lb. pull.
Do not bend the trigger bar tab down. You are asking for a full auto Glock if you do.

Wow! How did you get it down to 1 1/4 lb?! :shocked:

 

[Iceman 27]

Any one tried the Ghost trigger connectors?

 

[Duck of Death]

*QUOTE*
Wow! How did you get it down to 1 1/4 lb?

VODOUN