Ive been working on tuning the trigger pulls on my Glocks. Ive been through the following connectors, OEM #5, OEM #3.5, Scherer #3.5 and Lone Wolf #3.5 (LWD). The stock OEM breaks with less noticeable travel but it was too heavy for my tastes. The OEM #3.5 is lighter to pull but has more noticeable travel. The Scherer feels to me about like the OEM #5 because it stacks a little at the end of the pull. The Lone Wolf is noticeably lighter with about the same even travel as the OEM #3.5. However, I had to go through three LWD connectors to find one that worked well. The first did double taps in my 2nd generation G20 with older style trigger bar. The second LWDs reset tab was so long it was difficult to re-install the slide without resetting the trigger before the slide was all the way on (G35). The third LWD #3.5 connector I tried worked like a charm and is now living in my G35. I put another LWD #3.5 in my G23 and it works like a charm too. I think the LWD gets its reduced pull in two ways. First, it has a slightly longer reset nub. I think the reset nub cams the connector back a bit more than the stock connector so it reduces the friction between the connector and the trigger bar? Second, the LWD connectors vertical arm is cut down or slightly skeletonized which would also reduce the tension against the trigger bar a little. The second thing I noticed while working with my Glocks triggers is that the amount of engagement of the striker leg with the cruciform makes a huge difference in the quality of the trigger pull. My oldest G20 had minimal engagement when using the older trigger bar and it had a wonderfully crisp pull. Unfortunately, it also wouldnt ignite WW LP primers about 5% of the time. When I put the latest trigger bar (marked 4256-1 on the top of the cruciform) in the G20 I had 100% primer reliability but longer travel on the trigger. The 4256-1 trigger bar has a longer top part of the cruciform (sear) so the striker is cammed back further even before you start the trigger pull. The striker/cruciform engagement on the new trigger bar just happened to be more like 60-80% while the older trigger bar was more like 30-50% engagement. It looks to me like the key to a nice smooth trigger, beyond the obvious 25 cent trigger job polishing is minimal safe cruciform to striker engagement and less outward spring tension on the connector. BTW, I looked at my cruciforms with a 10X loupe and did a small amount of stoning with a very fine stone to make sure the top part was smooth. The middle section (sear) of the cruciform is angled so that only the top portion contacts the striker leg. Comments or suggestions from experienced trigger tuners welcome ;^) Do any of you guys bend the sear part of the cruciform down a tad to reduce trigger travel?