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Mobil 1 for friction points ?

  1. I had a my Glock 42 start misfeeding after carrying for 8 months without shooting it. I decided that pocket carry with Rem oil lube didn't hold up . I cleaned it with hops #9 and Rem oil then took a Q tip with Mobil 1 30 weight fully synthetic . My guns are running great using this method .
     
  2. Carrying a gun and not shooting it for 8 months?
     
  3. Mobil 1 is what I have used for years
     
  4. Nothing wrong with Mobil 1, it works.

    There are some good oil choices out there.

    Use what works for you. :)
     
  5. I either use Mobile one leftover from my Audi, synthetic Indian motorcycle oil. Lately I’ve been using Redline D6 ATF because its great for cleaning also and smells like heaven.
     
  6. Mobil 1 works fine,as do many others
    WalterGA would be proud of you...
     
  7. Mobile 1 for me too. 15W-50
     
  8. Another Mobil 1 user here as well.
     
  9. For running parts it's as good or better than any if the overpriced snake oils out there , and a single quart is almost a lifetime supply.
     
  10. How do you guys feel about the "grease for parts that slide, oil for parts that rotate" adage?
     
  11. I think the specific oil you use is a lot less relevant than a consistent maintenance schedule. 8 months of carry, with no maintenance, is likely to cause issues-regardless of what oil you use. I like to clean mine at least monthly, even if I haven’t shot it.
     
  12. I use grease on friction parts

    I use dry lubes like tuff glide where oil on guns would be needed

    oil attracts dust and particles

    I do use Mobil 1 in my cars
     
  13. My neighbor just gave me a gallon of Rotella 30. I'm good for 50years or so.
     
  14. When I change the oil in our Grand Cherokee I always have some left over 0W-20 Mobil 1 and that is what I use for all my weapons. I do use either Tetra or TW25B grease for the rails on my Glock, 1911 and AR15 trigger/hammer contact points since oil is just not retentive enough for those high friction areas, in my opinion. But frankly, any wheel bearing grease would work just as well, just use sparingly.

    For some reason we get all hung up on lubes for firearms when automotive lubes work just as well or better since they work in high heat, high friction, metal/metal contact areas that also see contaminates that need to be separated.
     
  15. It depends on hemisphere and moon phase.;)
     

  16. For pocket carry I field strip every two weeks.
    The amount of pocket lint is more than I ever thought.
    I tear down the mags once a month and blow out with compressed air.
     

  17. Where are my manors, welcome to GT!
     
  18. Sorry double post
     
  19. I also use 15W-50 Mobile 1, for lube. Clean with Hoppes.

    I'm developing a liking for Ballistrol, for wiping down the outside of firearms. Cleaned a few Glocks with it too. Still lube with a needle dispenser of Mobil 1!
     
  20. You need grease if you are going to lube and clean every 8 months. Grease stays put, oil evaporates and disappears.

    I use and like ALG very thin grease on all my carry weapons, and I honestly dont clean them as often as I should, but they are all perfectly lubricated months/years later if I never touch them.
     
  21. I use Milcomm grease and oil here for years. No issues. If a A10 can use it my firearms will be fine.
     
  22. Yeah, wtf?
     
  23. I have used Mobil 1 in all my vechicles for 30+ years. Changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Dont ever want to wear out an engine. Its a good lubricant. In my firearms I use Break free CLP for cleaning, after shooting. And just normal cleaning. For barrels that are really gummed Ill use hoppes9 cleaner. Then reassembling for lube I use Break free LP. But ive recently noticed that if you dont shoot it for a while and take it apart. The Break free CL has evaporated? So I think ill have to rethink my lube choice. When I run out ill switch over to Mobil 1. I dont see it evaporating. We will see.
     
  24. Yep, Mobil 1, Rotella, Amsoil, Quaker State. All good lubricants. I've used grease as well. never an issue in over 20 years, handguns and long guns alike.
     
  25. Welcome to GT!
    Yeah, Rem Oil is so light/thin as gun lube that it won’t stay on the metal parts for that long. I only used it to give my guns light cleaning after a short range session a couple of hundred rounds, but I’m now using something else even for that. Mobil 1 would be a better choice than Rem Oil as gun lube. (I’m sure there are even better gun lubes than Mobil 1.) I now use something else on my handguns, but I still use Mobil 1 to lube the bolt assemblies in my AR rifles. It works just fine.

    If you pocket carry your G42 but rarely shoot it, you probably want to lightly clean and lube it like once a week or at least every other week to make sure that your gun is not developing any rusts and the lube has not dried completely.
     
  26. I have used a "home brew" recipe lube consisting of 40% Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 synthetic oil , 40% Automatic Transmission Fluid and 20% STP Oil Treatment . Yes , it works well as a lube and you will have enough supply to last 20 life times ... However such a home brew does NOT protect against rust nor does it work very well as a cleaner . *In the end I have found that a separate cleaner and then followed with a LP is best for Glocks ... Lucas , SLIP 2000 EWL , FP-10 , M-Pro 7 and other dedicated LP's that stay put where you apply the lube , don't smell and are safe for skin contact are the way to go . I don't care if I pay $10 for a 4 oz. bottle of a CLP / LP as a 4 oz. bottle of an CLP / LP will last me a long time with Glocks .
     
  27. I use gun oil or CLP for firearms and automotive products for my car. I use grease for metal frame Sigs and 1911s and oil for everything else. Gun oil is cheap, I don't know why people try and reinvent the wheel and use XYZ instead.
     
  28. Then why use xyz "grease"?

    Gun oil, per unit ounce, is not cheap (it is a money making rip off) -- might as well use something else on hand for "free" (like what remains inside the bottle after oil changes-- which gets thrown away-- enough for lifetime supply for use on your guns).

    Nothing special about "gun oil" with a fancy tactical name or label on it..
     
  29. STP/ATF/15w40 evenly mixed.

    Add grease until it's a thickness you like. I like Mcdonalds ketchup thickness. Works wonderfully.
     
  30. My J-frames get the Hoppes clean and lube treatment with a big splash of lovey talk while I'm cleaning them. My Glocks prefer a couple of squirts of piss and an air dry after every range session...but those sick bastards are still flawless shooters!:D
     
  31. While there is nothing wrong with that, it (3000 mile change interval) does seem like overkill.
     
  32. Changing synthetic oil every 3000 miles is a little obsessive....

    The listed interval on my corrola is 10k... I change it about every 6k or so, and am probably wasting money
     
  33. Anyone notice oil manufacturers recommend shorter service intervals than car manufacturers with longer service intervals (which allows them to advertise lower owner maintenance costs)

    One sells more oil

    One sells more cars
     
  34. Most people don't end up buying a new car because of an engine fatality...
    It's usually a because of an increasing number of costly annoyances...
    That or it's just old and ratty and they are tired of it...

    Every car I've ever sold, the engine ran fine...
    Jiffy lube is lying to you..
    In a modern, well made engine 3000k oil changes, even with dino juice are just not necessary.
    With synth oil and a good filter they a realllly unnecessary
     
  35. I think 6k is good pm; no matter what they say, 10k is alot to ask of any oil.
     
  36. The Mobil 1 I use says good for 20,000 or 1 year. I change cause I dont want to be the one with engine related failure. Dont want to be that guy.
     
  37. It works for me with the right grease and temp. range.
     
  38. If one were to do routine motor oil testing to monitor, and depending on the conditions inside the motor (all motors and uses will vary, not accounting for oil consumption and loss), it is possible to see oil good for up to 20-30K or even more miles. 3000K miles is very OLD school thinking...makes money for Jiffy lube, Castrol, and Pensoil.

    BTW, when you go to oil change places like Jiffy- you may not know what quality oil or filters they use. Often they will use the least expensive and thinnest grade available in bulk. Better quality oil will cost more. Much better to do it yourself.
     
  39. Master tech.

    I change mine every 3000. Since I have a company vehicle, my personal truck is hardly used. 3000 miles on a less used vehicle, is 6000-10,000 on a daily driver. Work truck is 6000 diesel, 10 000 miles for gasoline.

    Motorcycles every 2000. Dirtbikes every single decent ride. If it's dark, change it.

    ZF transmissions Germany, recommends draining and filling (not to be confused with flushing) ATF every 30,000. Filter as per manufacturers recommendation.

    Oil testing can cost as much as just changing it.
     
  40. There's a lot of room between 20k and 3k..
    Like I said, my corrola recommends a synth oil change every 10k...
    Toyota is a company that stakes its entire of its two flagship sedans (Camry and corrola) on reliability (certainly not looks or performance)... I dont think the 10k recommendation is a conspiracy to have people burn out the motors in their cars so they'll buy another one

    That said, i do change it about every 6k-ish miles, because of the lingering guilt of not doing what my dad told me, and it still looks fresh...

    It's your money, but for a daily driver, changing synth oil every 3k miles is a waste, and isn't going to make the engine last longer..
     
  41. MY first guess, assuming you have decent shooting fundamentals, would be you are using too much oil. Combine oil with pocket carry and you get all the dust and debris in your pocket turning into mud in your gun because of excess oil. If you can tell there is oil on it, it has too much oil.
     
  42. I'd guess that too...
    Striker fired guns require next to no oil...
    It's not that oiling them is bad, as it will minimize wear at the friction points, but they don't NEED it to work..

    The part I'm most anal about oiling on my shield is the trigger-striker engagement point because it makes the trigger feel a lot better.. when that point gets dry it is noticibly more gritty..
     
  43. I entirely agree using motor oil is perfectly fine. What solvent we use to clean off gunk could cause problems with the finish or plastic.

    That said. This thread literally got me off by butt and I filled an empty gun oil bottle with extra Valvoline 0-20 oil I have. I have no idea what the "ideal" motor oil is, and I'm not a believer that using a multi weight oil on a gun is going to do anything more or less. It's just the extra I had lying around.

    Motor Oil is a perfect cost effective alternative to just about any other gun lubricant product. If with motor oil the firearm operates normally in the winters of Alaska or the summers of Florida swamps, and the hottest days of Arizona then well, what more could one possibly want out of a lubricant?
     
  44. I hope WalterGa is well and doing ok. Miss him!
     
  45. Used Mobil 0W-20 for years, then went to 0W-40 that was used in my 05 Mercedes, then 0W-40 Rotella for my 2014 Ram ECO Diesel and now it's 0W-20 MS6395 Pennzoil and Mobil 1 synthetic grease for slides when going plinking.
     
  46. I see him on another gun forum, still full of knowledge and still quite the character
    We sure had a cast of characters back then..:cheers:
     
  47. No doubt Mobil 1 is by far a superior lubricant than the over priced snake oil they sell as high tech gun oil.

    I went a step further and bought a small jar of molly grease that will probably last well beyond my lifetime.

    image.jpeg
     
  48. I use Lucas marine grease for lube and clean with Ballistol.

    The marine grease has anti corrosion agents in it.

    https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/marine-grease

    Key Benefits
    • OBCS (Overbased Calcium Sulfonate)
    • Typical weld point of 500 Kg the minimum industry standard is 200 Kg
    • Timken Load 65 lbs
    • Dropping point 570 °F
    • Provides rust and corrosion protection in both fresh water and salt water environments
    • Effective Water Resistance
    • Long Lasting
    • Resist Extreme Pressure
    • Extreme Friction Reducer
     
  49. Got experimenting a little bit with hBN and made a paste of it with Mobil 1. It really is a super lube. The oil is great but the boron nitride works into the metal and stays forever. Even if the paste is removed there is still a great amount of friction reduction. Makes a slide feel like its on ball bearings.
     

  50. After doing some research on "hBN", I think I want to play with it also. Where does one get small quantities of it?