[Hoser]

A while back a buddy gave me a bunch of 9mm brass to process. Basically he wanted me to roll size it and swage out the primer crimp. Easy stuff. Just run it through the Case-Pro and then the 1050.

I asked him to check for steel cases, Berdan primers and tumble clean as it speeds up my end of the deal.

He is somewhat new to reloading so he tumbled the brass clean using stainless media. Guess I failed to tell him a few hints...

A few days ago I set out to start doing his brass. I opened the ammo can and found a bunch of ugly stinky brass. Seems he did not completely dry the brass before closing the can. The worst part is that he did not deprime the brass before hitting it with the stainless media causing the primers to corrode a little bit. I knew it was going to be a pain but I had no idea.

More than half of the primers were glued in place and only the top half came off. After a bit of pain at the 1050, I just threw the whole batch in the trash and handed him some of my stash.

Do yourself a favor, always be sure your brass is completely 100% bone dry after wet tumbling.

Bottom pics are what the before and after are supposed to look like. Actually a before picture should never look that bad. And the before picture was after spending 3 hours in corncob and nu-finish.

 

[jmorris]

Ah, the dreaded "ringer".

Set them out in the sun this time of year and not only are they dry in 2.5 beers they are to hot to hold in your bare hands.

 

[Three-Five-Seven]

If you absolutely must get your brass wet with the primers in place, it is essential to dry them quickly. The alloy of the primer cup is slightly different than the alloy of the case. This results in a di-electric potential between the two parts, which results in "welding" the primers to the cases. If they are dried quickly, this can largely be avoided.

But, of course, depriming before wet-tumbling is the only, true, correct answer.