Privacy guaranteed - Your email is not shared with anyone.
Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Woof Memorial Critter's Corner' started by G20man32904, Sep 10, 2004.
You have a pm.
<a href="http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee305/Poppa315/?action=view¤t=Missy.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee305/Poppa315/Missy.jpg" border="0" alt="Missy 9 weeks"></a>
Just wanted to say I have learned quite a bit reading through this thread. This is Missy a 9 week old Shepard Newfy cross who if the scale can be believed is now 15 pounds.
In the week we have had her she has had 5 accidents in the house, none of which we look at as a serious issue. One was the first day when she was roaming free before we put the leash on her, we made the mistake of letting her roam without the leash so it was our fault. Two were because we were not fast enough in reading the signs and in getting our coat on before taking her outside so she peed by the door unable to hold it any more. The final two were quite interesting. She would be sleeping on the bath mat /rug in front of her crate and would suddenly wake up, roll over onto her feet, squat and start to pee all in less than 2 seconds. It is just like she is dreaming about going potty and then realizing she really does.
We started from the very beginning giving treats only after she did what she needed to, and always have tied it to something like SIT or DOWN to stop her from wanting to jump up or try to take the treat from us rather than us allowing her to have it.
Our biggest issue has been separation anxiety, she was part of a litter of 13 so sleeping in her crate was a gradual distancing exercise over the last week. The first night my daughter slept next to her crate while the door was open and she was attached to the crate with her leash. The next night the door was shut while Katie slept next to the crate. The next several she was in her crate in our room. The last couple she has been in her crate in the kitchen. She would start to bark as soon as we left the room but a couple of quick shots with the squirt bottle while saying "Quiet" got her to calm down pretty quick.
Saturday she slept from 12:30 AM to 9:30 AM. Her whining woke me up so I took her outside for a potty break. Sunday morning she was awake at 6:00 AM because I needed to go to the bathroom. We were both able to lay back down and sleep some more after our potties.
Thanks to this tread I put a quick stop to playing "Tug of War" with the rope braid chew toy, no rough housing or wrestling, and doing our best to ignore Missy when we first get home unless she is showing signs of needing to go potty (Even then it is only after she lays down quietly in her crate).
Puppy school starts in a couple of weeks, hopefully by then she will have picked up most of the basic commands. We will need to work on the distractions but she is still a young puppy so her attention span is still quite short.
What can I do to prevent my dog from eating her poop? She goes through cycles of doing this, then not for a while. Said dog is a 4 yr old female, spayed, American Eskimo. Only dog, 2 small kids in house. She eats Iams dog food. I heard this would help & tried meat tenderizer on her food (I think that's what it was), then she wouldn't eat. Vet said some dogs just do this & not much you can do about it. I really don't like that answer.
Soldans carries some stuff for this - it is in a white envelope in powder form, i forget the name, but we used it in May when the puppy we got from the shelter insisted on doing this. You add it to the dog food. It solved the problem in two weeks and he's not done it since.
My only other recommendation is to clean up after the dog immediately so she has no opportunity to do this.
Mrs.C - still trying to train the dog to run on the treadmill - suggestions welcome - currently he will eat on it, or near it HURRIEDLY if i am standing on it or near it making noises with it (scraping my feet on the treads, tapping on the control panel - which tends to unnerve him. Anyone else in the family doing this and he just bolts for the door). I'd like to put his food int he room, shut the door and get on the treadmill and turn it on myself...
No Soldans near me. They don't sell stuff online either.
Hey guys, since G20 is no longer with us, I'm going to do step in and try to fill his shoes here. If you've posted a question and haven't received an answer I'll be coming in soon and giving you all the help I can.
Just some quick back ground on me, I've been volunteering at my local humane society for about 3 years now, working with the dogs there. I also have been doing in home consultations for clients for the past year or so. Most of my knowledge comes from my personal experiences dealing with dogs but I also have a vast library at home that contains books that deal with just about every training philosophy out there.
I generally go with a very natural approach to training. To me, that means using mother nature to your advantage and emphasizing the leader/follower relationship that must be clear in order to have a stable dog and a behaved pack.
That said, I do realize that each dog is different and each owner is different, and something that works for one dog may have to be modified slightly to work for you and your dog. So when asking a question giving me as much background as possible will go far in helping you to find a solution to your problems.
(Platz you have a PM)
Maybe you can give me some advice!
Adopted a male boxer about 1.5 yrs old. He showed up at a friends house. She took him to the vet and got him fixed and checked out. He was found to be stage 2 heartworm positive but more on that later.
We took him home. He seems a good dog and somebody has taught him some good stuff. During walks he pulls a lot but I make him walk beside me and give corrections. He gets very excited over other dogs or any animals really, even birds.
Now we have two cats and my reptiles. He must get along with the cats or he cannot stay. So far I have kept the cats in the back of hte house and only let them out when he is out of sight on a walk or outdoors on the tether.
The cats have came out and checked out his crate and smelled him. I have made sure he has smelled the cats too. The other day he got a glimpse of one of them when I opened the door. He rushed to the door and looked under and I couldn't get him away easily.
He went a couple days ago for his heartworm treatment and of course he is very tired now and lazy. I was thinking that maybe this will be a good time to introduce them with him on the leash. Last night I allowed him to see the cat from a distance. He made the leash tight and his ears were perked up. The cat just sat there about ten feet. She didn't run or anything. I think if they run he will want to chase. It seems he has a strong prey drive which means this may not work out.
Any tips for introducting them? I've read several articles online but most say something different. About the only consistant thing is when they are introduced to make sure to associate the cats with treats and not allow him off the leash but to slowly lower the distance to the cat as can be allowed. I can really only give him a month to see if he will work in our home. Thanks.
A treadmill is a GREAT tool btw. For most dogs, you need to ease them into it. I would first bring the dog around the treadmill and encourage him to sniff it etc.. Put the dog on it while it is not moving and give him a small treat or two. Also bring the dog in while you are using the treadmill to get it used to the sound of the treadmill running or just turn it on at low speed with him in the room. If the dog has made it this far without issue, then start feeding the dog on the treadmill. Basically you want the dog to associate the treadmill with all positive things.
Once you feel that the dog has no issues with being in the room with the treadmill on or him being physically on the treadmill, then it's time to actually get him on it. Take him for a short walk around the block and then into the room with the treadmill. While still holding the leash, put the treadmill on at it's lowest speed. If the dog reacts with panic, DO NOT panic with him. You need to be calm, cool and collected during the whole time. If it is extreme panic, then take him off and repeat the process. If he is startled, then use the leash to keep him on the treadmill. Only after the dog starts walking should you give encouragement. Most dogs will adapt very well to the treadmill.
I have three issues though, first, NEVER use the treadmill for a walk substitute, NEVER use the leash to tie the dog to it and for the first few days never let the dog out of your sight while he is on it.
Well, the "bad" news is that you can't scold her for anything. IF you try she'll assume that you're scolding her for obeying the "NO" command or have no idea why she is being scolded.
My advice at this point would be to keep the dog on leash and fasten the leash to yourself. That way you have access to some control. You can keep both hand free and basically ignore her until something like that happens again. She'll get the point eventually.
OK, I didn't see this when I did my initial response. When he panics, how do you react? How do the other family members react? Do you try to do this with the dog "cold" or after a walk/exorcise session?
How is she on a walk?
Also, was she aggressive to men when you first got her, or did that come out later?
Switch to a better food. You can pick up Blue Buffalo at petsmart.
Chances are that the dog isn't getting all the necessary nutrients out of the food and/or is not fully digesting it.
Just remember to switch food gradually, over the course of a week or so.
The main tip is to introduce them after a nice long walk get the dog nice and tired and used to being in the follower position. I'm not too keen on the idea of using treats as a part of this. Generally most owners and dogs associate treats with excitement, which is the exact opposite of what you are trying to accomplish.
I would put them all in the same room with you. Put the dog on leash and sit there ignoring the whole thing. If the dog starts to act up, let the dog tire himself out. Eventually he'll get the point and have no other choice but to relax. Stay there as long as it takes. You are mainly just there to hold the leash. When the dog relaxes, then you should go in with soft praise and gentle petting. You need to be relaxed during the whole time. The moment you get stressed, the dog will feed off of that.
If there is a HUGE reaction from the dog, you may want to consider a prong collar. It won't hurt the dog, but it will make it less comfortable for the dog to bolt at the cats.
Also, you need to find an outlet for the prey drive. See if you can talk to some Schutzhund clubs in your area. This will require a huge commitment from you though. But, with right dog and owner, it can be a very rewarding experience.
Thanks for the reply.
She eats Iams. I thought that was supposed to be a good one?
Just added Blue Buffalo to my dog's diet. Still mixing with Nutro Natural Lamb & Rice.
It's a little pricey but I've noticed they are eating MUCH less.
If you go to their website http://www.bluebuff.com/ they will send you a $5.00 coupon!
Thanks! Just did.
Iams isn't the worst, but there are better foods out there. The quick test to look to see if a food is right or not, is to look at the ingredients. The things you want to avoid are lots of flour, wheat and corn. They are just filler ingredients and offer no nutritional value. If we look at comparable types of food from both companies you'll see what I mean. I'm just looking at the first few ingredients.
Iams Adult ProActive Health: Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Chicken By-Product Meal, Chicken Fat ...
Iams Healthy Natural: Chicken, Chicken By-Product Meal, Brewers Rice, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley....
Blue Buffalo Large Breed All Natural: Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Whole Ground Brown Rice, Whole Ground Barley, Oatmeal....
The ProActive is pretty much crap. Corn meal as the second ingredient means stay away.
I will say that the Iams Healthy Natural, isn't so bad, but I'd be willing to bet that you can buy a much better food for the same price. The red flags for me are the chicken by-product meal and the corn meal. By-products are all the things not fit for human consumption, no thank you. We already mentioned corn, so I won't go into that again.
Now, in all fairness,the oatmeal in the Blue Buffalo isn't really going to do anything for the dog, but since it's not one of the first three ingredients, It's not going to make a huge difference. It's the chicken, chicken meal (not by-product) and the rice that are going to have the biggest positive impact on the dog.
There are plenty of great foods out there besides Blue Buffalo also, you just need to know what to look for. Don't be discouraged by the price either, with a high quality food you won't need to feed the dog as much.
Thank you sir. I send off for a $5 coupon as listed above. I think I'll make the gradual change.
Cool, let me know if the poop eating still continues. If it does, I'd give the meat tenderizer one more try since you'll have a better food. If that doesn't work we'll have to look at other things to try.
Hey Blinky. Thanks for keeping up this thread. I found it last week and started reading from the beginning. I hadn't realized G20 had past away until I came upon your post. After reading his countless posts I felt as if I had lost a personal friend myself. I am very sorry for your loss as I can tell you two got real close during the course of this thread.
On to my dog. I have a 10 week old GSD. I got him at a day before his 6th birthday because 1. I didnt know better so that was my fault, and 2. the breeder fed me a line. He told me that the puppies were weined at 4 weeks so he said it was ok to seperate them from mom so young. So I took his advice and took the puppy home. I know now that his socialization suffered because of it. So i have been trying to socialize him on my own which seems to be working pretty well. He is very well adjusted. My question is housetraining related. He has learned sit, down, and we are currently working with stay. He picked those up REALLY fast. He isn't 100% reliable yet because his attentin span is pretty small, but he is really doing well. The housetraining is not going so well. I've been tethering him like you guys recommend and it works in minimizing the accidents but mostly because I am quicker at catching him before he actually has an accident. When he gets outside he absolutely knows the grass is where he needs to go potty. Soon as he gets to the grass, he is going. But he doenst seem to understand that he ISN'T suppose to go in the house. I've had him for 4 weeks and its still not really sinking in. Should I remain patient with him in hopes he will get it or should I try something different? My current methods are:
1. Crate training (which went well. He still gets a little whiney when I leave the room but that only lasts for about 15 seconds and then he settles in).
2. I take him out every 2 hours on the hour. I take him out 30 minutes after eating (630am, 1230pm, 630pm). And i take him out whenever he looks like he is going to make a mess (or after he has started making a mess if i wasn't quick enough).
3. I praise like mad when he goes on the grass and if he goes in the house i use a stern NO but i do not hit or correct further. (prior to this thread I wasn't reacting at all to going in the house. I was praising when he went outside and then ignoring the behavior inside other then rushing himside if he was in the act).
I am worried I am expecting too much out of him being that he is still only 10 weeks old. But i feel like as intelligent as he is he should be getting it and fear that I am confusing him or just not doing something right. He did have round worms that we have treated him for, I am not sure if that has anything to do with it, but I have been working closely with my vet and my pup is very healthy otherwise.
Again, thank you for keeping this thread going. Mike would be proud.