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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got around to making some grips for my colt. Made a practice set from some scrap wood, then decided to try with some nice wood. They aren’t too crazy hard but if you sand too much or mess up drilling the holes then the wood is ruined. Not too bad for my first attempts, got a lot of cool wood to use in the future.

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They do look good. Good job!
 
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The first set shown looks like stabilized burl? Either way both look almost perfect!

There's really only one way to prevent errors and to guarantee repeatability in regards to hole placement when undertaking manual drilling, and that's to take the time to layout and create a precision hole/drilling template of suitable (read: stable) material that utilizes hardened steel drilling guides. Or you could use 2D/3D modeling software to design both your holding/drilling fixture(s) and the grips themselves, and then create both utilizing a dedicated CNC router and the proper end mills. Perhaps you're already using the latter method to shape the grips since I see a nice tablesaw, moisture gauge, and a healthy supply of lumber also ;)
 

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Nothing dresses up a 1911 like nice grips. I have several engraved 1911s. Nobody notices the engraving much when they are in the holster, but I get lots of compliments about the grips.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The first set shown looks like stabilized burl? Either way both look almost perfect!

There's really only one way to prevent errors and to guarantee repeatability in regards to hole placement when undertaking manual drilling, and that's to take the time to layout and create a precision hole/drilling template of suitable (read: stable) material that utilizes hardened steel drilling guides. Or you could use 2D/3D modeling software to design both your holding/drilling fixture(s) and the grips themselves, and then create both utilizing a dedicated CNC router and the proper end mills. Perhaps you're already using the latter method to shape the grips since I see a nice tablesaw, moisture gauge, and a healthy supply of lumber also ;)
Yea it’s stabilized buckeye burl, I‘ve got a hole jig for grips which makes thins a lot easier. Seems like the hardest part is making the counter sink holes for the screws perfect, we’d to work on getting it set up perfect on my drill press and mark everything down so I can repeat it. But yea I’m set up for doing just about anything.
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Yea it’s stabilized buckeye burl, I‘ve got a hole jig for grips which makes thins a lot easier. Seems like the hardest part is making the counter sink holes for the screws perfect, we’d to work on getting it set up perfect on my drill press and mark everything down so I can repeat it. But yea I’m set up for doing just about anything.
View attachment 741834
For the screw holes you might like to consider using a drill/counterbore combination bit to undertake the process in one step without having to worry about alignment of the counterbore after drilling the clearance hole for the screw; just set your depth once and have at it:



The above is a product manufactured by Link Industries...here are it's particulars as advertized:

0.178" drill, 9/32 pilot length, high speed steel bright finish combvo drill & counterbore, 0.29" head diameter, 5/16" body diameter, 1-15/32" OAL, #8 socket head cap screw compatible.

Take a quick look at them over at MCS Direct:

Link Industries drill/counterbore bit available at MSC Direct and elsewhere I'm sure...

Best wishes :D
 

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Wow! Those are beautiful! That wood is amazing.
 
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